I was thinking bent connecting rod before I even saw the pic on the Maxima site because of the rough idle, but if that's gone then I'd say it was just fouled plugs. Change the plugs, filters, and all the fluids, and it should be fine.
NEED ADVICE -- Car + HUGE puddle...
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The plugs looked great when I took them out last night. Should I still change them?
Oil, fuel, and air filters will be changed as soon as I can figure out whether to go with AutoRX or Amsoil Engine Flush + Seafoam + Techron (see my previous post).
Oil, fuel, and air filters will be changed as soon as I can figure out whether to go with AutoRX or Amsoil Engine Flush + Seafoam + Techron (see my previous post).
The solvents you mention are mostly for baked on carbony sludge... not cool temp condensating water filled issues. I would just do a couple changes with cheap conventional oil, run dry gas/isopropyl alcohol through the tank, and use stock fluids/filters for the ATF etc.
Pulling the plugs was a recommendation to see if the insulator cracked due to thermal shock, or if an electrode got busted off, etc. Can probably keep the ones you have. Maybe change them in a month after you've run a couple tanks of fresh gas through.
Don't go exotic, in other words.
Pulling the plugs was a recommendation to see if the insulator cracked due to thermal shock, or if an electrode got busted off, etc. Can probably keep the ones you have. Maybe change them in a month after you've run a couple tanks of fresh gas through.
Don't go exotic, in other words.
I personally never put old plugs in once I pull them. Maybe just for now throw a set of autolite plats in there. They are like $2.50 each. I actually use them on my SR20DE.
My advice is change all oils & transmission fluid. Replace all filters oil, air & pcv. fill up the tank with premium gas add 1 can gumout or dry gas & go for a 3-500 mile freeway ride. Then change the engine oil & filter again when you get home. Use supertech 5w30 for the first change. You are fine.
Quit with the wasteful oil changes. You need to heat everything up and drive. Change all fluids and filters. This includes the transmission, the power steering, and please bleed your brakes.
You need a solvent to help remove any milky sludge hanging around the engine. Run a pint of Marvel, or 5 ounces of seafom, with 10w40 or 15w40 cheapo Walmart oil for 3k miles. Use the rest of the seafoam or Marvel in your gas. After that, continue with whatever oil and OCI that you've been doing.
Because compression is good and normal, don't worry about anything else. But the rapid splash of cold water on hot engine is bad. I've seen a bunch of Nissans with cracked exhaust manifolds for no reason. I wouldn't be surprised if you gave your manifold a reason to crack. There are also other hot components that might give up in the future like your alternator........
You should also dry every wiring connection in the vehicle. Invest in some dielectric grease for the starter, power distribution, battery, ignition wires..... and some stabilant or deoxit for the vehicle's wiring harness.
I bet that you can even out the compression PSI of that engine by degreeing the cams. Having one bank of cylinders with higher average PSI then the other is normal manufacturing tolerance. Shhhh, don't tell anyone, that one bank of cams is a couple degrees slightly off compared to the other bank.
You need a solvent to help remove any milky sludge hanging around the engine. Run a pint of Marvel, or 5 ounces of seafom, with 10w40 or 15w40 cheapo Walmart oil for 3k miles. Use the rest of the seafoam or Marvel in your gas. After that, continue with whatever oil and OCI that you've been doing.
Because compression is good and normal, don't worry about anything else. But the rapid splash of cold water on hot engine is bad. I've seen a bunch of Nissans with cracked exhaust manifolds for no reason. I wouldn't be surprised if you gave your manifold a reason to crack. There are also other hot components that might give up in the future like your alternator........
You should also dry every wiring connection in the vehicle. Invest in some dielectric grease for the starter, power distribution, battery, ignition wires..... and some stabilant or deoxit for the vehicle's wiring harness.
I bet that you can even out the compression PSI of that engine by degreeing the cams. Having one bank of cylinders with higher average PSI then the other is normal manufacturing tolerance. Shhhh, don't tell anyone, that one bank of cams is a couple degrees slightly off compared to the other bank.
JHZR2
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I have to ask... with a puddle that is that deep and long, how could you not see it well enough in advance to be able to stop before going in? Were you going too fast for the conditions?
My father told me to NEVER drive into puddles.. he used to work in an area that flooded a LOT, and saw more than his share of people stranded in or around a "puddle" that in reality was a small lake.
Good luck - the advice youve gotten here is solid. Let everything dry real well, replace ALL hydrocarbon fluids (including brake fluid), and hope for the best...
JMH
My father told me to NEVER drive into puddles.. he used to work in an area that flooded a LOT, and saw more than his share of people stranded in or around a "puddle" that in reality was a small lake.
Good luck - the advice youve gotten here is solid. Let everything dry real well, replace ALL hydrocarbon fluids (including brake fluid), and hope for the best...
JMH
It's not that I couldn't stop, it's that I had nowhere to go. I was in the middle lane of a three-lane road with a rail on one side, a wall on the other, no real shoulder, and a constant stream of cars going by me on both sides. Plus, it was at night, the puddle was under a small unlit overpass, the water was murky, and I am not very familiar with that spot, so it was kind of hard to judge how deep the water was.
Have one of those underpasses here in Colorado as well - the city finally resolved the issue of water collection, but many upon many people either lost their cars to hydrolocking issues or many had pretty good expenses in fixing things up.
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