Need a thick M10 crush washer...

[Bailey28]

I am doing a brake upgrade and the banjo bolt I have is slightly too long for the crush washers and hose I am using. I already shaved down the bolt to where the threads start and didn't want to go further. After shaving I have .010" clearance from the bolt bottoming out in the caliper with the hose and two washers installed.

All of the copper washers I have are .060" thick max. I need at least a M10 x 2.0 washer. 2.5mm or 3mm would work even better for clearance. Anyone have a source for thicker washers? Auto parts around me have 1.0mm thick.

Can I stack the washers? Also, I was thinking of using aluminum if I couldn't find them in copper.

 

[scrllock]

I have a stack of the amazon sampler packs for stuff like gaskets, washers, clamps, etc. Not my preferred vendor but it's come in handy many times. Pretty sure my copper washer box has some in that exact size.

 

[D60]

I've never seen aluminum used on brakes. The thickest washers I've seen were on Subaru transmission cooler lines, but much larger than M10

Honestly I'd try for a different banjo bolt. I hoard them whenever I replace a caliper

 

[clinebarger]

Do not stack washers! If you have enough threads on the bolt.....Cut it down more. If not buy shorter banjo bolts

 

[GaryMX5]

M10x2.0mm aluminum available on amazon

 

[The_Jeff]

Stay with copper for your washers. They get a nice phonographic finish.

If you cut down the banjo bolt make sure the hole in said bolt still lines up with a fluid passage.

 

[Bailey28]

Not sure what you mean by 'phonographic', could you explain more? By cutting the threads I am removing material from the end of the bolt. The fluid hole is toward the other end near the bolt head. I did find a M10x1.0 nut to thread onto the bolt before I cut further into the threads and have the nut 'rethread' the cut portion.

 

[D60]

Not sure what you mean by 'phonographic', could you explain more? By cutting the threads I am removing material from the end of the bolt. The fluid hole is toward the other end near the bolt head. I did find a M10x1.0 nut to thread onto the bolt before I cut further into the threads and have the nut 'rethread' the cut portion.

I'm assuming the circular depressions like a record -- ya know vinyl. The calipers almost always have circles like rings of a tree.

So you're not bottoming against an unthreaded shank below the head flange? You just need to keep taking threads off the tip, and it won't affect the hole? Then yeah, just keep shortening it.

M10x1.0 is annoyingly fine-fine thread. And kinda difficult to find. The spark plug in my model engine in school used M10x1.0 threads and I had to special order a tap.

 

[Bailey28]

They are motorcycle calipers, both the caliper and hoses do not have the ring stamp pattern on either piece. The banjo bolt is aluminum, screwing into an aluminum Brembo caliper. I think the hose is aftermarket and a tad skinnier at the banjo than the stock hose. I do not have the stock hose. So I need a few .000 to get the banjo to not bottom in the caliper.

I was shooting for .030"-.040" clearance from the bottom of the banjo to the bottom of the caliper blind hole. The fluid feed is at a 45* angle at the bottom of the hole in the caliper and seems like its countersunk into the bottom.