Necessary to flush or just drain really well?

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I am draining the Peak Extended Life coolant from my 91 Honda CRX Si this fall and re-installing Honda Type 2. Is it necessary to drain the Peak, then flush the system? Can I not just let the Peak drain out really well (including draining the engine block) and just install the Honda Coolant?
 
modern antifreeze is based on organic acids. as long as there is no old technology (silicate etc.) fluid in there, it is fine to drain and refill. my mechanic is excellent, and that's what he does. you don't really need honda type 2 either, modern oat style antifreeze is all good, just don't use the GM spec (Dex Cool), it's bad news, tends to eat head gaskets, and if you have Dex Cool in there, drain it out asap.
 
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It wouldn't be a bad idea to rinse out all the Peak-the Extended Life is a "dex-clone" that allegedly MAY have 2-EHA in it, and (I believe) the Honda coolant is similar to the Toyota & others that have the phosphate/P-OAT inhibitors in it-not sure about compatibility, I'd try to rinse it clear myself.
 
You don't HAVE to do it, but it is advisable. Even a simple drain, fill with distilled water, run for 10-15 minutes, drain, fill with distilled water, run for 10-15 minutes, drain and THEN fill with the new stuff would be better than just throwing the new coolant in and hoping for the best.
 
Stick with distilled water. You can get it for about a buck a gallon at most pharmacies. A shame to waste all those fancy additives just trying to neutralize the water you're mixing with the coolant.
 
What I've been doing for the past twenty years or so is:

Every couple years, (or whenever I get "A Round Tuit") I drain as much as will drain, then refill with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. (I get the distilled water at my local grocery store). As long as the cooling system did not have any rust, this method works great.

If it has rust, you must flush.
 
If you are using the same type of coolant, it's fine to drain normally and refill.

But if switching types, it's best to flush with water until it drains clear. Tap water is fine for flushing. If the water is hard or has high mineral content, do a final rinse with distilled water.

I prefer to use full strength antifreeze. The water remaining after flushing will dilute a pre-mix below 50/50. With full strength anti-freeze I can use whole containers to end up with closer to 70% antifreeze, allowing me to top off with water. It's easier keeping only distilled water around, rather than open bottles of antifreeze.
 
If there are no problems, a drain /fill is actually preferable.
Less to go wrong, and less time and expense.
If you are changing coolant types, you want to get ALL new stuff in there, not a mix. A little air pressure at the filler neck may help purge it.
 
Quote:
FYI http://www.bernardiparts.com/Honda-Anti-...OL999-9020.aspx
That works out to $25.88 a gallon!
shocked2.gif
Absurd!

To the OP, best bet is to do several distilled flushes to get out as much as you can of the old stuff. Your owners manual (posted below) says the block drain ((pgs 65-66) is in front so it would be easy to get old stuff out with only a couple of distilled drain/refills. You could buy 1 gallon of the Honda 50/50, fill radiator, burp and top off with distilled water. I'd save some (very little) for the recovery tank, and fill that last. That will give you very close to a 50% coolant concentration.

Normally I wouldn't use 50/50, but with Honda Type II the 50/50 price works out to less than the concentrate, and the block drain is easy to find on this model, so the 50/50 Honda Type II is also more convenient.

91 CRX owners manual Use Index

HTH
J
 
That works out to $25.88 a gallon! Absurd!
What is absurd is to think you can fill a 1.43 gallon cooling capacity with a gallon of coolant. Your best bet is to buy a gallon of 50/50 and a qt of conc . This will give you a little higher concentration since you are in a colder climate.
 
What is absurd is to think you can fill a 1.43 gallon cooling capacity with a gallon of coolant.

$25.88 a gallon is absurd, IMO. And yes, the total capacity is 1.43 with a total empty, I was looking at the refill capacity. And, if that's the way to look at it I'd buy 2 gallons of 50/50 rather than the concentrate, and have some left rather than mix the concentrate.

IMO, there was no need to flame to make your point. Did you find the capacity and owners manual for the OP? Didn't thinks so.

In case I didn't mention it, $25.88 a gallon is absurd, IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
If there are no problems, a drain /fill is actually preferable.
Less to go wrong, and less time and expense.


I agree. That's what I do on my Mazda about every other oil change. Keeps the fluid fresh.
 
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