The only thing my wife can cook is brakes....If your wife drives like most wives drive, i think it’s safe to assume the culprit has been identified
The only thing my wife can cook is brakes....If your wife drives like most wives drive, i think it’s safe to assume the culprit has been identified
The only thing my wife can cook is brakes....
Had a similar issue recently as well. I simply took the rotors and had them turned and kept the brake pads since they didn't even have 200 miles on them. They guy who did it said it was becoming more and more common for people to bring in brand new rotors to be turned before installing them.
I've never seen anybody successfully re-bed-in brakes after a pulsation developed. If they have a pulsation issue, the rotors should be resurfaced...THEN do another bed-in.
Even within spec?Turning the rotor makes the problem reappear quicker.
The rotor is a heatsink and a combination of mismatched pad material and rotor heat ranges caused pad material to imprint /weld itself to the surface.
With less material to absorb heat, the rotor now heats up even quicker than prior to the turn and accelerates the " non uniform pad imprinting problem"
Even within spec?
There may be less mass, but if the rotors are not exposed to extreme conditions, it may not matter.less mass is less mass regardless of spec- "spec" is designed to avoid cracks vs prevent pad imprinting.
That has never been my experience. Most every pad imprinting to rotor issue I've ever seen was a result of improper bed-in. I've "fixed" a lot of other people's mistakes over the years just by resurfacing and reusing the existing rotors as long as they were in spec and proper bed-in procedure. Those people reported years of trouble free, smooth braking.Turning the rotor makes the problem reappear quicker.
The rotor is a heatsink and a combination of mismatched pad material and rotor heat ranges caused pad material to imprint /weld itself to the surface.
With less material to absorb heat, the rotor now heats up even quicker than prior to the turn and accelerates the " non uniform pad imprinting problem"
That has never been my experience. Most every pad imprinting to rotor issue I've ever seen was a result of improper bed-in. I've "fixed" a lot of other people's mistakes over the years just by resurfacing and reusing the existing rotors as long as they were in spec and proper bed-in procedure. Those people reported years of trouble free, smooth braking.
Depends on the manufacturer. For most manufacturer choice of supplier and material always comes down to money.I wish that worked for me.
Ive had pad imprinting problems on 3 different trucks in the last 15 years. (titan, ridgeline, Chevy 3500 dmax)
In each truck they were turned and put back together with OE parts bedded per instruction, and the problem reappeared in a shorter span of miles. It was a total waste of time and money to bother doing it at all.
in each rig the problem went away with Hawk LTS pads and aftermarket rotors.. (stillen / Rotor pros on the titan, and stop techs on the other two)
No amount of turning or bedding regardless of how proper will fix a poorly matched pad combo for any length of time.
Depends on the manufacturer. For most manufacturer choice of supplier and material always comes down to money.
Size? My Prado in Europe has undersized rotors. No OE rotors are working if vehicle is driven bit aggressivly. Aftermarket parts (EBC) resolved that issue after 3-4 attempts using Toyota OE parts. I had same issue with SIenna when bought it slightly used. Did not even bother with OE parts, just went EBC, and after that Raybestos rotors and Pagid pads (also works).
On BMW and VW pretty much anything works, OE or OEM. Aftermarket like Centrict etc. I do not know as OEM parts are pretty chep to go that route. Only aftermarket I tried on these vehicles is EBC on VW (works excellent) and EBC Yellowstuff on BMW I got for free from EBC to try on track (works good so far).
BMW changed that policy as people wanted that all the time.No one would turn my BMW rotors, I was told repeatedly that the rotors and pads are designed to wear and be replaced as a set.
Growing up I didnt turn rotors unless I had a problem or a lip/ groove,
Id replace the pads and burnish surface and move on - did that for decades with zero problems.
BMW changed that policy as people wanted that all the time.
I never do that. Front ATE, Textar, Pagid, Jurid rotors (all OE suppliers for BMW) are in the range of $50-60 per piece. Why doing it?
Yeah, BMW does not joke around that.my BMW rotors were also pretty soft and had a pretty good lip by replacement time, so there were really two issues at play.
one - of the policy at the time...interesting to hear they changed it.
two- there wasnt much left to turn anyway.
The upside was the performance - they performed very well.
I could't agree with you more, initial bed-in following ALL pad manufacturer's process, never clean new rotors with brake clean wash them with dish soap, many causes of pulsation, sticking slides, the corroded piston in caliper, corroded bore in caliper,Why would you even keep those junky rotors? The grooves in them will damage the new pads.
Any new rotor is fine, maybe get one with a coated hat (rust proof). A rotor isn't something that can be screwed up with modern tool/machines, even on Chinese brands.
The pads, on the other hand, are a different animal. They are to blame for 99% of the "pulsation in brake pedal" issues, but people keep blaming the "warped rotors", because they don't understand the process.
The brake pads deposit a layer of braking material on the discs.
That layer needs to be uniform and thermally stable. That's why the quality of pads and initial bedding of the pads is extremely important!
Even "good" pads, if they are not bedded per manufacturer instructions, will go "bad". It isn't just a "slap and go" type of deal.
Any in-uniformity on the deposited layer will only accentuate with every braking action (material will be deposited more in places where there is already more material, because that's where the heat will be generated). And so, the pulsation will appear after a few hundred miles driven (in the city), with about a thousand braking actions.
Staying at stop light, with foot hard pressed on fresh and not bedded pads, will just print those pads on the hot steel rotors. That's the main source of pulsation.
Get quality pads, from reputable manufacturers, even if they cost a bit more. Or even get OEM pads, usually they are good. I gave up on using "store brand" pads, they didn't work for me.
When I change my pads I also order new rotors. They are so cheap and I am doing this every 10 years, so why use rusted and f-t up rotors? They will just damage the new pads!
Aftermarket Euro brand rotors have always been unusually inexpensive for European cars. Not sure why.BMW changed that policy as people wanted that all the time.
I never do that. Front ATE, Textar, Pagid, Jurid rotors (all OE suppliers for BMW) are in the range of $50-60 per piece. Why doing it?
I got few days ago Zimmerman's front rotors to switch to after track season from ATE. Made in Germany and I think they were $55 a piece.Aftermarket Euro brand rotors have always been unusually inexpensive for European cars. Not sure why.
With that said, at the dealer level, the new BMW’s seem to use a less aggressive pad compound that no longer wears rotors as terribly. On car brake lathes are now being used at the dealer level for brake services when possible, especially under prepaid maintenance.