NAPA fuel pump left me stranded.

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I replaced the fuel pump on my Sentra 47,000 miles ago. I went on a road trip Easter Sunday morning and it [censored] out on me resulting in a pricey tow ($205). I was able to nurse it for a mile or so by whacking the gas tank, but that was about it and it certainly wouldn't have made the 37 mile trip back home. How (un)usual is it for an aftermarket pump to fail? This time I went for a 235-dollar "OEM" pump from autoanything. It is made by Kyosan, a Japanese company, but can anyone confirm that it is what Nissan actually puts in their cars on the assembly line? I'm hoping that the Kyosan unit has metal gears; I'm sure the NAPA one uses plastic.

In my search (stores and on-line) the bottom-feeder price is sub $100 up to the gold-plated price of $331 from the dealer ("We'll have to see if we can source one for you."). What are the differences between the two, if any. One parts guy said there were no differences and the warranties were the same (12/12).
 
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It could have just been bad luck...no pump is perfect.


When the wife's fuel pump went, it was replaced by a delphi one....
 
Sorry. The part should have lasted 100k or more.
Fuel pumps sure have iffy lifespans!

This is one reason t why I use lube like MMO or 2 stroke oil in the gas.
Modern gas has alcohol, which is rougher on pumps than pure gas.
 
aren't the napa pumps made by Master?

for fuel pumps, I'm for Aftermarket parts, but certain things.. you just have to buy OE.. fuel pumps is one of those things.
Not to say that they're any better or worse.. but sometimes you pay more just for a name, but you have that expectation that goes with it as well.
 
About ten years ago I had a fuel pump replaced on a Ford E150 van.
The indy said we have to use an expensive Ford pump or you will have problems. He said they tried after market pumps and the cars always came back.
 
Originally Posted By: Nayov
I replaced the fuel pump on my Sentra 47,000 miles ago. I went on a road trip Easter Sunday morning and it [censored] out on me resulting in a pricey tow ($205). I was able to nurse it for a mile or so by whacking the gas tank, but that was about it and it certainly wouldn't have made the 37 mile trip back home. How (un)usual is it for an aftermarket pump to fail? This time I went for a 235-dollar "OEM" pump from autoanything. It is made by Kyosan, a Japanese company, but can anyone confirm that it is what Nissan actually puts in their cars on the assembly line? I'm hoping that the Kyosan unit has metal gears; I'm sure the NAPA one uses plastic.

In my search (stores and on-line) the bottom-feeder price is sub $100 up to the gold-plated price of $331 from the dealer ("We'll have to see if we can source one for you."). What are the differences between the two, if any. One parts guy said there were no differences and the warranties were the same (12/12).

The Kyosan is an original supplier to Nissan. The Napa pumps are indeed trash with most being made in China.
 
Nissan uses Hitachi as OEM - with the exception of the Ford-built Quest which is more than likely Walbro.

Kyosan is a part of Denso, which is Toyota and Honda's OEM. Napa and most other chains source their pumps from Airtex/Master or Carter. I have a Carquest-boxed Bosch in the beater now.
 
Originally Posted By: nthach
Nissan uses Hitachi as OEM - with the exception of the Ford-built Quest which is more than likely Walbro.

Kyosan is a part of Denso, which is Toyota and Honda's OEM. Napa and most other chains source their pumps from Airtex/Master or Carter. I have a Carquest-boxed Bosch in the beater now.

Nissans have evrything from Kyosan in some to Carter pumps in others. Many hardbody 2.4L trucks came with Cater supplied pumps and we replaced alot of them due to premature failure when I worked for Nissan.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2

This is one reason t why I use lube like MMO or 2 stroke oil in the gas.
Modern gas has alcohol, which is rougher on pumps than pure gas.


LOL! I beg to differ for we've been using e10 for over 20+yrs and none of my vehicles incl. my original 1991 323 was still in original fuel pump when I sold it 3 yrs ago. Never would I have to add these so-called UCL or things to make up for the lubricity nor have to worry about having ethanol in gas.

All of our cars now have electric fuel pumps in them incl. all of my serivicing list of Clients (incl. Nissan Sentra which one of them pooped out it's original @182,000kms due to user ignorance ---ran the fuel tank dry, replaced with a Bosch).

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
It could have just been bad luck...no pump is perfect.


When the wife's fuel pump went, it was replaced by a delphi one....


I use only OEM parts on my wife.
 
I always use OEM fuel pumps, I had 3 NAPA pumps go out on me before. Even the counter guys at my napa said that the pumps were garbage and go out after 1 year warranty is done. They are made by Carter I beleive, isn't carter OEM for chrysler?
 
Originally Posted By: defektes
They are made by Carter I beleive, isn't carter OEM for chrysler?

the original one out of mt cherokee was made by bosch.
 
For [censored] and giggles I bench tested the pump. I dunked it in a gallon of water and it ran fine during the 20 minuets of the test. I used hot water to try to tax it. Also, I could barely stem the flow when I tried to block it with my thumb. It also sprayed about 6 feet. I then rapped on it to see if it would die out, but it kept on going. These tests are crude for sure, but does this mean there is nothing wrong with it? The new one is still going in for sure and I may keep this one as a spare for whatever reason.
 
Quest - You can beg all you want to, but any alcohol in gasoline cuts it's lubricating qualities.
Sure, many can go a very long time with E10.
But it is a substance that works in the wrong direction for this function.
 
Yeah I'll get the water out but I bet it's 100% plastic in there anyway.
___

I put an ohm meter and it shows .8; FSM says "about" .7 as the correct range.

So does any know if the measurement of resistance is the final word on its condition? Like I said, I'm putting a new one in anyway, but I'm interested in this b/c it's the first time I've diagnosed an electrical component with an ohm meter.
 
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