Mystik JT-6 hi temp....

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97f150

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Is this grease okay to use in ball joints and tie rod ends? This is what I have in my gun right now. If it is not okay, what would be a good grease to grease mentioned joints as well as u joints? Sort of a "one size fits all" grease.

Also, is it okay to flush ball joint grease? I replaced the upper and lower ball joints a couple months ago and I know the Moog joints I put on have vents. What is everyones method of greasing these components?
 
I always use Moly EP grease if it does not have moly I do not use it on ball joints,u-joints or CV joints I am working on! I have had wheel bearing look and measure out like new after 17 years of use by useing Moly EP grease in them every couple of years. I have never in my life time worn out a CV joint because I always lube them with a needle ever couple of years once the car is about 5 years old on!
 
Notwithstanding the above post, there are several of us who will NOT use grease containing Moly in universal joints. In my case, I've had bad experience in a Ford SWB 4X4, 1993 pickup, using Ford spec. moly-grease. I took the advice (after having replaced 2 complete sets of universal joints--one set paid for by Ford under warranty) of George Morrison, a lube engineer who used to post herein, and ceased using moly-grease on both wheel bearings and u-joints. I now use only a grease meeting Spicer specs, that does not contain moly for both applications...and no more problems whatsoever...and I take care of over a dozen vehicles.
You will find a number of people who agree with me that post on BITOG concering NOT using moly for these usages. What you will not find are many knowledgeable people who will say you must not use a grease unless it contains moly for Wheel Bearings or U-joints.
I do believe that moly is the better grease to use for ball joints, CV joints & tie rods.
The Hi-Temp. Mystik JT-6 is an outstanding universal joint grease and disc-brake wheel bearing grease. It meets Spicer's specifications and is easily obtainable at many Wal-Mart locations.
 
Sarge, I had my u joints in mind when I bought it. I get the feeling that there is no "one stop shop" grease and I will have to break down and buy another gun and tube of grease. I just didnt want the hassle of stowing them. We do have guns at work but they use NLGI #1 grease.
 
I like Mobil 1 products. However, the specs. show it to be more for automotive applications. It is not as 'heavy-duty,' as Chevron Delo (another excellent NLGI #2 grease) or the Hi-Temp Mystik. Also, last time I was in your 'neck fo the woods,' it's a hot country. For the usages you previously cited, you want a NLGI #2 grease.
One of the good things about M-1 grease is the very thing many of us gripe about...and that is the fact that it's a drippy, runny product...messy, BUT the bearings wind up being well lubricated...IF you can figure out a way to keep the oil in the grease and not dripping out of the gun. One trick, very successful with most grease...somewhat successful with M-1 grease, is to lock the plunger back each time you finish using the gun...thus taking the pressure off the remaining grease in the gun.
Also, you CAN use one grease successfully for all your applications...and that's the JT-6 Hi-Temp. It will work out very well...it's just not 'best' for all you usages...what one product is? But what it is, is good enough; unless you're like me and hung up on best product for each use. If you're that kind of a guy, you'll need a gun with something like a 3% Moly-Lith, a gun with a heavy-duty LithComplex and a gun with an alumnium-base #2 if you have a boat trailer down there in Louisiana.
 
Thanks Sarge. The only greasing I will be doing now and in the near future is ball joints, tie rod ends, and u joints on my truck every oil change. My wifes truck will get the greasable components once the "lifetime" chassis pieces and u joints tank in her truck. Sorry to say no boat trailer yet, nor the boat to go on it. Once I am faced with space limitations ATM and this is why I was looking for a one size fits all, but for now I will stick with the Mystik JT-6 hi temp for all my applications. Once I have a house and garage and the other toys and space for the toys than I will spread out to the "gold standard" for each application. I ran across this Mobil 1 grease at AZ and was just wondering how it compared, as it is supposed to be synthetic and darn near double the price. I will stick with the Mystik though, a more heavy duty grease cant be a bad thing, especially at 1/2 the price.
 
Sarge and others,

Don't CV joints have bearings in them....please correct me.

If so, why do you think the moly grease works better in them?
 
do it myself: Ball bearings in CV joints vs needle bearings in U-Joints and roller bearings in Timkens (greasable wheel bearings). Different applications call for different greases. And yes, a good Moly in well-made CV-Joints, if one assumes the boots remain weather and dust-proof and the vehicle alignment- wheel balance is always kept in spec...such CV joints can last 100,000--200,000 or more miles. But then, the same is true of U-joints and greasable wheel bearings...assuming the WB's have the proper clearance and U-Joint driveshaft angles remain at factory settings & the driveshaft starts in balance and is not damaged. Other factors (wheel offsets, etc.) also come into play.
 
Kaboomba, if you're talking about the CV joints in most newer front wheel drive cars and/or many modern light-duty 4WD pickups, the CV joints are not greased during routine maintenance. Almost always, unless one of the protective boots gets torn, they're pretty much trouble & maintenance-free.
We live in the country in a very rural area. I check all 4 C/V joint boots on both our 4WDs every time after we get rain or snow/ice and mud can pack around and tear those boots. Also, they need to be checked at every oil change. Thankfully, the boots now in use appear to be of better material than those of the mid 1990's.
All that being said, and being aware of the great ride of this type front axle on a 4x4, I still wish the old 'solid' front axle was still available on a light duty 4WD pickup from GM/Ford/Dodge/Nissan or Toyota.
 
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