My WVO setup on plain stock engine

Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Hi, I thought I'd share with you. 20000km ago, I started using WVO+diesel blends at various concentrations. I just replaced the fuel filter after the first 1:3 WVO tank run, for safety reasons. What oil I use? Waste sunflower oil, used in deep fryers, cooking lot of french fries and some meat or cheese (samoussas, nems, bouchons...). I collect it at local snacks. How I filter? First, I let it settle for one month. More or less of white gunk forms at the bottom of the bottles. I then use a funnel, a cone grill and a non-woven compress to filter the oil using gravity. Pic attached. If some white gunk drops, it clogs the filter, no big deal Will it blend? After filtering 15 liters approximately, I pour in a leftover White Spirit bottle and some 2 stroke oil, or some gasoline and 2 stroke oil. Seemed to me that it prevents separation of the blend when mixed in diesel fuel then. How it runs? In my DW8 Peugeot Partner L4 1900cc diesel engine (naturally aspirated!) (IDI, Bosch VE) Starting can be rough when more than 25% WVO on cold engine (like some alternate misfires) but 20 seconds of fast idling ends the issue. Then, even fully warmed, the engine can feel racy at low rpms light loads, shaking back and forth on worn engine mounts. Full throttle runs really great. I even managed to get away from a dry tank buying virgin sunflower oil and mixing with ethanol (burning alcohol) to get to a gas station. Does it smells? Definitely, half like french fries and diesel. Any comments appreciated.

received_2176531382660396.jpeg
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
That's really awesome. When you change the filter, how many miles does that average out between changes. also what percentage does the WVO turn out to be compared to diesel?
The car's fuel filter is cheap, like 8 bucks, so I change it on my 10kmiles OCI to prevent starving fuel by clogging. Better safe than stranded, with the really cheap filtering solution I use. The compress filter gets thrown every filtering session be it 10 to 60 liters, or if it clogs in session I'll put another. I average approx 40% because I alternate filling 15-20 liters of WVO+adds, with 20 liters of gasoil.
 
Last edited:

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by andyd
Waste not, want not. How is your wife's new car doing? grin2
Processing lemon law for the Mitsubishi will take a year more or so. Meanwhile she's happy with the 2001 Toyota RAV 4
 
Messages
10,317
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Does the engine oil gel up? Some WVO guys find the engine oil polymerizes over time. There are/used to be, some epic pictures of that. And some VW engine failures too.
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by Cujet
Does the engine oil gel up? Some WVO guys find the engine oil polymerizes over time. There are/used to be, some epic pictures of that. And some VW engine failures too.
The engine oil seemed to stick on the dipstick too much soon after the begging of the experiment but I think it was part of the unknown oil change history and switch to synthetic 5w40 oil. The aspect seems normal now that I'm at 10kmiles on the oil. Change is planned next week, will cut oil filter open. Anyone knows why the engine seems to run forward at part throttle ? Is it dangerous or just annoying? Usually I apply a little bit more throttle or eventually downshift
 
Messages
36,121
Location
ME
I did a similar thing, I use peanut oil to fry turkeys for thanksgiving/ Xmas and it goes rancid with no other cooking purpose. So I let it sit all winter and the very small amount of contaminants settled out. The food puts something in fryer oil that reacts poorly under heat, so I used only "nearly virgin" WVO in my W123 mercedes. The ratio was only a couple quarts per tank of fuel. I did it not just to get rid of the oil but with hopes that it would help with the dry low sulfur diesel they sell now. It ran phenominally. The exhaust looked a little blue.
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by Rand
so wait you are putting gasoline+fryer oil in a diesel engine? hide
1:30 or 40 gasoline on the whole tank, which contains fryer oil, half diesel fuel, 2 stroke oil...
 
Messages
1,269
Location
Brittany / Canada
Neat. On a side note, that engine is reliable and generally not picky smile When healthy it's usually well behaved (for the age and technology), albeit very slow, as for the "running forward" I don't exactly understand what you mean?
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by Popsy
Neat. On a side note, that engine is reliable and generally not picky smile When healthy it's usually well behaved (for the age and technology), albeit very slow, as for the "running forward" I don't exactly understand what you mean?
Well, it's like, apart from my rear engine mount could be loose because various leaks, the engine rocking back and forth at steady throttle, light loads, flat roads and low speeds (30mph). It doesn't happen much on plain diesel fuel. Else, the engine runs better on WVO on the upper RPM range (3000-4500rpm) than on diesel fuel (maybe a very few HP tops)
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Originally Posted by Popsy
Mmm, that's weird. Small leak on the fuel "chain" letting a bit of air in?
Hi, just following up: Indeed the suction side of the fuel system wasn't completely air tight, I discovered small leaks on junctions. Temporary repairs stopped the jerking
 
Originally Posted by bullwinkle
I just hope it doesn't jam up your rings with glycerine, that seems to happen to all the Mercedes diesels that ran unconverted (into biodiesel) WVO.
can't you put some additive in the wvo or into your crankcase to prevent or dissolve that? drain and filter that gelled used motor oil into 'black diesel' by mixing with a percentage of gasoline! tongue2
 
Last edited:

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Hi, I'd like to give BITOG a little update on my WVO car. I'm now at 276000 kilometers, and I've found the sweetest blend I'm running for a few tanks now : 87,59% WVO (used Risso Amphora Elite, which when virgin is a blend of palm oil, sunflower oil with high concentration of oleic acid, colza oil, canola oil w/ high oleic acid, and E900 antifoam) 12,17% Ethanol free, Unleaded low-sulfur Gasoline 0,24% Stanadyne Performance Formula The Stanadyne helps from running right even on cold start up. I just need to floor it an crank for less 10 seconds (if the fuel system didn't drain) and it runs like a charm. I plugged a bunch of fuel filters lately, supposedly from a bad oil batch (mixed the filtered and raw jugs when cleaning garden). It seems to be still processing crap from the tank, as I'm now changing a fuel filter every 2 months. Well, given all the experiments I did with that fuel system, you can guess that pretty much all the seals are going crap. Most of them are 20 years old, I make drops on the floor when rolling, when I start in the morning I have to crank a lot to prime everything. I'm looking to change them all. Starting with the Bosch VE pump... and then the feed & return lines, up to the tank. Do you have any advices regarding fuel lines and filter ? For simplicity I would keep stock, but the fittings here and there aren't twice the same, so maybe I should just keep the fuel filter box (that includes the push primer and the heat exchanger) and customise everything else (including filters before the OEM one) ?
 
Messages
10,317
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Just off the top of my head, there are some very large diesel fuel filters that may allow you to run for an extended period of time without changing the filter so often. But it's always better to "refine" your fuel prior to dumping it into the fuel tank. I have a 0.5 micron "motorguard" air filter that works wonderfully with fuel. It can be converted to use a TP roll, so can be really cost effective. I've used it in a siphon to filter WMO for my Diesel Rabbit. Worked very well.
 

Superflan

Thread starter
Messages
656
Location
Reunion Island
Hi BITOG, here's a little update on the WVO car.

Pump seals were definitely not sealing enough and I went leaking half the last full fuel tank while driving. So, I stopped at 285000km, after passing a full diesel fill-up to restart on mostly diesel after the repairs.

I went through a 1 month fix because I messed up the pump assembly and bent the internal fulcrum lever assembly, which is found only on one pump part number.

After finding a pump with hydraulic head failed, I dropped the parts to a professional dieselist who put it all back together and bench-tested and adjusted the pump to stock specs for the car.

After getting the car back altogether and cleaning all the sticky veggie oil mess under the car, and on the front right brake assembly, went to MOT (the French one). Well, the car didn't pass, unsurprisingly, mainly because of :

-front axle braking power asymmetric (like 50% bias) : critical failure, no more right to drive starting the next day
-too much play on some suspension components
-worn seat belt.

So after a new used seat belt, a set of pads, and a set of bushings, I passed MOT and I'm back on the road for at least 22 months, I hope!
 
Top