My Posi is Not Working

Status
Not open for further replies.
K

kevm14

Joined
Jul 20, 2004
Messages
342
Location
North Kingstown, RI
Well, probably not permanently (at least I hope not). I have been running ARX in the differential of my Camaro for maybe 800 miles now and my posi action is almost completely gone. It must be too slippery for the clutches (or whatever the "Auburn-type" is) to grab. When I change the fluid, I'll add a bottle or two of GM's friction modifier posi additive and hopefully it will wake up again.

Side note: I have also added ARX to the power steering of the Camaro, which has rack and pinion. Absolutely NO change in steering effort. Just wanted to mention that.


Title

[ November 19, 2004, 12:29 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
I think it will probably be OK when you drain it. But I would never put it in a "posi" differential.

-T
 
yeah, with the clutches in those kinds of diffs, it might not have been the best move.
What made you think that you needed to use a cleaner in the diff anyway? In my experience, so long as the oil is changed on a decent interval, say once every 1-2 years, it comes out pretty darn clean.

JMH
 
If it is the Auburn type or at least the way the older Autburn type was made, they do not have clutches.
 
The reason I started using it was a leaky pinion seal. There is gear oil splash in a radius all around the floorpan.

The posi wasn't in mint condition before I started this, but it definitely seems to be minimally functional now. We'll see how it goes when I decide to drain the fluid out. Frank says 1000 miles, but I'll probably go longer.
 
Kevm,

You didn't say how many total miles are on your vehicle.

Regardless, I would use something like Pennzoil or SuperTech 75W90 dino gear lube until the seal leak stops. Only add friction modifier if the diffy chirps or grinds in figure-eight patterns, and only add (2-4 oz.) at a time until the stick/slip subsides. People tend to over FM LS differentials of the clutch type.

BTW, if this an earlier model Auburn NS, it has either clutch plates or cone clutches, usually the latter.
 
I would get that out of my differential if I were you. The only way to replace a leaky seal is to replace it with a new one.
shocked.gif
The newer Auburn posi's in the Fbody's use a clutch type material that is specified not to use synthetic as it works on the basis of friction. My SS has the Zexel-Torsen gear driven posi that I like alot better than the Auburn unit due to the clutches not wearing out. BTW your not feeling a difference in the PS system because there was probably nothing wrong with it to begin with.
 
Kevm14,

I would make sure and change out the fluid at 1K miles. You need to get the old out and fresh fluid in for winter.

smile.gif
 
if it's a 4th gen LT1 camaro (and not an SS), then it's the cone type auburn. the SS LT1 and i think all the LS1 4th gens had torsens.

when you change the fluid, leave out the friction modifier. this will help the limited slip function come back. if it comes back strong and you start to get popping while turning, then you can go back to add some modifier.

edit: sorry, i just realized all i did was repeat what molakule said.
 
I have a GM 10bolt 7.5 inch with the Aubrun LSD.

It has been run on GM Synthetic changed every 1.5 to 2 years and the last change was with Redline 75W90 LS.

**Never ever had a problem with Synthetics + the Auburn LSD.

Almost true, at 3,000miles factory differential got noisy and dealer said replace fluid due to LSD brake in
smile.gif
Everything went away after that.

30,000 miles needed some kind of new differential seal, dealer said its common with that part. Replaced and never happened again.

So I am some what skeptical of the Auburn not getting along with Synthetics statement.

The Dealer said since Redline 75W90 LS is GL6 pre-modified and I am spec'd for GL5 no GM LS friction modifier additive was necessary.

They were right as no chatter has happened.

Perhaps you have a mechanical problem that ARX did you a favor by uncovering?
 
The newer Auburn posi's in the Fbody's use a clutch type material that is specified not to use synthetic as it works on the basis of friction.

That was the earlier post by Ryan I was responding to.

I think mine came out of the factory with Syn in fact.i
 
Okay I retract everything I just said about the Auburn LSD!!

Just found out through reading that my car has the Y87 package so it comes with the "Zexel-Torsen T-2 Series differential.

I can not speak for the Auburn's, I apologize for my confusion!

Respectfully~
 
Don't know if this helps but I have an Auburn in my truck and they specify only conventional 80w-90 GL-5 plus a bottle of GM or Ford additive. Never a problem.
 
Does the friction modifier increase the fluid's coefficient of friction or decrease it?
 
i couldn't tell you how the coefficient of friction changes numerically, but what the modifier does is keep the static and kinetic coefficient closer together. (so there's a smooth transition between the clutches not sliding, then sliding.)
 
quote:
Originally posted by ebaker:
Does the friction modifier increase the fluid's coefficient of friction or decrease it?
Click to expand...
To paraphrase MolaKule, to "modify" friction means to decrease it, unless otherwise stated, so friction modifiers typically decrease the coefficient of friction, i.e. make things slipperier.
 
quote:
So apparently I shouldn't be using ARX to bring back my pinion seal. What else should I do? I don't feel like R&Ring the carrier/gears just to do a stupid seal. Or should I just live with the leak and top it off on a regular basis?

Click to expand...
I think you misunderstood previous discussion.

Do the ARX regime, just use dino afterwards until you know that there are no more leaks. No need using synth's until you know for sure leak has stopped.

IF the seals are bad and can't be chemically conditioned, you will have to top off until you R&R the differential.

In any case, leave the dino in until the Posi action returns, and the THEN you can add FM.

Differential FM's adjust the "dynamic" friction coefficients in differentials to reduce the "stick/slip" or chatter problems inherent in posi's.
 
There is no magical cure for worn out parts like seals.

I think the benefits of using Auto RX are greatly exaggerated. I have used it in 2 vehicles many because they had high miles. After the time period, I cut open the oil filters expecting to find a lot of crude. Found nothing with the naked eye. What I did notice during the time the stuff was in one engine was that is was noisy. Once the new oil was in, noise went away.

So my opinion is that is may have a purpose but I think a lot of folks are using it when there is no need. I have heard some recommending people use in vehicle with low miles. They assume it can't hurt but I say Leave well enough alone!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Mike:
There is no magical cure for worn out parts like seals.

I think the benefits of using Auto RX are greatly exaggerated. I have used it in 2 vehicles many because they had high miles. After the time period, I cut open the oil filters expecting to find a lot of crude. Found nothing with the naked eye. What I did notice during the time the stuff was in one engine was that is was noisy. Once the new oil was in, noise went away.

So my opinion is that is may have a purpose but I think a lot of folks are using it when there is no need. I have heard some recommending people use in vehicle with low miles. They assume it can't hurt but I say Leave well enough alone!
Click to expand...
Since you are an Amsoil shill, i would expect you WOULD say that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

clinebarger
  • Locked
My Favorite Car!
2
Replies
23
Views
9K
clinebarger
C
  • Locked
Schaeffers and Specialty Formulations in complete 03 Dodge CTD fluid change
Replies
3
Views
2K
Joseph Fihn
Back
Top