My Honda service dept experience today.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Good story if anyone's interested.
Are you kidding? Of course we are interested! Well, at least I am!!
What the heck does it mean about the mechanic shotgunning parts? Huh?
Quote:
Good story if anyone's interested.
Are you kidding? Of course we are interested! Well, at least I am!!
What the heck does it mean about the mechanic shotgunning parts? Huh?
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Good story if anyone's interested.
Are you kidding? Of course we are interested! Well, at least I am!!
What the heck does it mean about the mechanic shotgunning parts? Huh?
Throwing parts at it until they fix the problem. I have had techs chasing a misfire want to replace all coils and plugs to start to eliminate that problem.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Good story if anyone's interested.
Are you kidding? Of course we are interested! Well, at least I am!!
What the heck does it mean about the mechanic shotgunning parts? Huh?
Throwing parts at it until they fix the problem. I have had techs chasing a misfire want to replace all coils and plugs to start to eliminate that problem.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
Yep. There is a big Lexus dealership in south FL that looks like that.
They even have a beauty salon so customers can get all pretty while their car is getting that $600 scheduled maintenance.
My Lexus dealership is nicer than my house.
Yep. There is a big Lexus dealership in south FL that looks like that.
They even have a beauty salon so customers can get all pretty while their car is getting that $600 scheduled maintenance.
My Lexus dealership is nicer than my house.
Alright..
Only the brake pads needed replacement, why shotgun my brakes all the way to the caliper? First he points to the rotor. "Can't just slap pads on, feel this?". Ok, its grooved and worn down in the middle of the rotor. So what. "That will wear your pads out fast, wasting your money. 2nd set they gotta go". Ok, then pull off the rotor, turn it. "Waste of labor, less metal to cool during braking, brakes warp, pedal shakes. Don't bother". Huh? Ok. What about the caliper? "see that? It sticks. You can get away with it but you'll be back sooner than later". Huh?
I trust the guy so moving on.. "One reason why its cheaper this way, speed. Back away please". Ok.. he sets the torque on his air gun, gets some grease out, moves the boxes close, glasses down, eyes the clock, and wholly shmolly its like watching a pit crew. After approx 5 mins its all gone but a brake line. After 10 mins its mostly back together, he pauses here and there to grease and fiddle with the brakes. 20 minutes later its all back together.
"No, its not OE, its middle of the line stuff. Raybestos. Half the price, but its all new, and will last longer than one new OE part and a bunch of old OE parts combined. And your labor is only one hour because I'm not fooling with new and old parts blending them to work together. Whats the biggest money maker for shops? Brakes. I could sit here for 3 hours turning your rotors, cleaning and greasing bolts, bleeding old calipers for $300. What does that get you? Used brakes. I gave you new brakes, see you in 50k".
Thanks, that pumped me up! I was eating up brakes every other year with my job. I was DIYing akebono pads. He was wight. My last shotgun brake job he did lasted almost 3 years, 60k in down town traffic.
So, depending on the labor, sometimes shotgunning is the answer, especially brakes. But he doesn't shotgun across the board, it depends.
Only the brake pads needed replacement, why shotgun my brakes all the way to the caliper? First he points to the rotor. "Can't just slap pads on, feel this?". Ok, its grooved and worn down in the middle of the rotor. So what. "That will wear your pads out fast, wasting your money. 2nd set they gotta go". Ok, then pull off the rotor, turn it. "Waste of labor, less metal to cool during braking, brakes warp, pedal shakes. Don't bother". Huh? Ok. What about the caliper? "see that? It sticks. You can get away with it but you'll be back sooner than later". Huh?
I trust the guy so moving on.. "One reason why its cheaper this way, speed. Back away please". Ok.. he sets the torque on his air gun, gets some grease out, moves the boxes close, glasses down, eyes the clock, and wholly shmolly its like watching a pit crew. After approx 5 mins its all gone but a brake line. After 10 mins its mostly back together, he pauses here and there to grease and fiddle with the brakes. 20 minutes later its all back together.
"No, its not OE, its middle of the line stuff. Raybestos. Half the price, but its all new, and will last longer than one new OE part and a bunch of old OE parts combined. And your labor is only one hour because I'm not fooling with new and old parts blending them to work together. Whats the biggest money maker for shops? Brakes. I could sit here for 3 hours turning your rotors, cleaning and greasing bolts, bleeding old calipers for $300. What does that get you? Used brakes. I gave you new brakes, see you in 50k".
Thanks, that pumped me up! I was eating up brakes every other year with my job. I was DIYing akebono pads. He was wight. My last shotgun brake job he did lasted almost 3 years, 60k in down town traffic.
So, depending on the labor, sometimes shotgunning is the answer, especially brakes. But he doesn't shotgun across the board, it depends.
^^^Great story.
But what pitiful brake life! My 3500 Savanas with TWO TONS of equipment on board go over 100k miles on the factory pads, and usually longer with top quality aftermarket parts.
And it's all in town traffic.
Back OT I do not like to cheap out on tires or brakes. Both have proven to cost me more later, false savings for sure. And these days with sealed hubs and hat rotors a brake job requires very little skill.
But what pitiful brake life! My 3500 Savanas with TWO TONS of equipment on board go over 100k miles on the factory pads, and usually longer with top quality aftermarket parts.
And it's all in town traffic.
Back OT I do not like to cheap out on tires or brakes. Both have proven to cost me more later, false savings for sure. And these days with sealed hubs and hat rotors a brake job requires very little skill.
Yeah, driving in downtown Boston, Chelsea, Cambridge, Revere and Quincy all day.
Originally Posted By: supton
So... Planning to ever go back to this dealership for future work?
Well, i DID call a local trusted "Indy" shop and there price was almost exactly the same as the Honda dealership for the rear hub assembly.. I didnt pay for anything else(other than that part and repair) and they did warranty the brake rotors.
Will i return ? well, they tried upselling me on stuff i didnt need, and they charged me $125 for a hour of labor.. that stings esp as a BITOG'er that likes to think im a pretty good DIY'er. so to awnser your question.. i dont know, that will depend on the situation and my need for service. I may go back but that doesnt mean i have to like it. Time will tell.
So... Planning to ever go back to this dealership for future work?
Well, i DID call a local trusted "Indy" shop and there price was almost exactly the same as the Honda dealership for the rear hub assembly.. I didnt pay for anything else(other than that part and repair) and they did warranty the brake rotors.
Will i return ? well, they tried upselling me on stuff i didnt need, and they charged me $125 for a hour of labor.. that stings esp as a BITOG'er that likes to think im a pretty good DIY'er. so to awnser your question.. i dont know, that will depend on the situation and my need for service. I may go back but that doesnt mean i have to like it. Time will tell.
That stands for a "sucker" born every minute.
My story, I took my Accord in to have the rear main seal replaced. The transmission has to be removed to replace the seal. Afterwards, I noticed it flaring between first and second gear. Called up dealer and they said bring it in anytime I'm in the area and they will get right on it, no appointment needed. Brought it back in a few weeks later and they confirmed what I said. They did an atf drain and fill which fixed the problem. But they wanted me to pay for the drain and fill. I said I didn't have the issue before they worked on it and I'm not paying for that. The advisor is holding my keys and he gives them to me and I walk out the door telling him to have a good one.
My story, I took my Accord in to have the rear main seal replaced. The transmission has to be removed to replace the seal. Afterwards, I noticed it flaring between first and second gear. Called up dealer and they said bring it in anytime I'm in the area and they will get right on it, no appointment needed. Brought it back in a few weeks later and they confirmed what I said. They did an atf drain and fill which fixed the problem. But they wanted me to pay for the drain and fill. I said I didn't have the issue before they worked on it and I'm not paying for that. The advisor is holding my keys and he gives them to me and I walk out the door telling him to have a good one.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
^^^Great story.
...My 3500 Savanas with TWO TONS of equipment on board go over 100k miles on the factory pads, and usually longer with top quality aftermarket parts....
Steve, at the risk of getting off subject, what top quality aftermarket pads do you use? Our work 2500 Silverados would get about 50-60k on the factory pads with our poor drivers, and maybe 20k on the Duralast Gold ceramics. Replacements were free with the lifetime warranty, but it got tiring having to do brakes annually on them.
^^^Great story.
...My 3500 Savanas with TWO TONS of equipment on board go over 100k miles on the factory pads, and usually longer with top quality aftermarket parts....
Steve, at the risk of getting off subject, what top quality aftermarket pads do you use? Our work 2500 Silverados would get about 50-60k on the factory pads with our poor drivers, and maybe 20k on the Duralast Gold ceramics. Replacements were free with the lifetime warranty, but it got tiring having to do brakes annually on them.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
That stands for a "sucker" born every minute.
As long as it is directed at all people duped by both indy and dealer shenanigans, then the image is appropriate. If directed at the OP, then the poster obviously didn't read the original thread and is just being rude. Notice that the OP DID deny the other services recommended.
This is an excellent educational thread. The OP was in one of "those situations". The car was on the rack and the technician "proved" (maybe) that the hub was going bad. The OP could have denied the repair, only to have to deal with it later. Maybe saving himself bigger $$ if he DIY'd it, or only saving $30 - $40 if he took it to an indy. So, maybe just get it done and be over with it. Maybe he should have asked for the old part back (law) and if someone else said the part was still good, he could have gone after the Honda dealer.
Classic buyer's remorse. Been there, done that. What's done is done. Not a huge expense. Live and learn for the next time.
Thanks for sharing Otis.
satinsilver, your flaring problem could have been a coincidence and you got a free fluid change. Who really knows if the dealer pulled a fast one or not.
That stands for a "sucker" born every minute.
As long as it is directed at all people duped by both indy and dealer shenanigans, then the image is appropriate. If directed at the OP, then the poster obviously didn't read the original thread and is just being rude. Notice that the OP DID deny the other services recommended.
This is an excellent educational thread. The OP was in one of "those situations". The car was on the rack and the technician "proved" (maybe) that the hub was going bad. The OP could have denied the repair, only to have to deal with it later. Maybe saving himself bigger $$ if he DIY'd it, or only saving $30 - $40 if he took it to an indy. So, maybe just get it done and be over with it. Maybe he should have asked for the old part back (law) and if someone else said the part was still good, he could have gone after the Honda dealer.
Classic buyer's remorse. Been there, done that. What's done is done. Not a huge expense. Live and learn for the next time.
Thanks for sharing Otis.
satinsilver, your flaring problem could have been a coincidence and you got a free fluid change. Who really knows if the dealer pulled a fast one or not.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
... Most dealers set it up so that it is just not possible to overlook the actual shop floor from customer lounge. It is intentionally done that way.
Not only that, but every time we get our 2009 Sonata back from the Hyundai dealer's service department, the interior reeks of raw gasoline and cigarette smoke (what a combination
), so bad it takes two weeks to clear out. Then they wonder why I won't take it there for an oil change.
... Most dealers set it up so that it is just not possible to overlook the actual shop floor from customer lounge. It is intentionally done that way.
Not only that, but every time we get our 2009 Sonata back from the Hyundai dealer's service department, the interior reeks of raw gasoline and cigarette smoke (what a combination
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
What's a good indy shop in Round Rock Texas?
Let's make this a sticky: good indy shops
a friend recommends Wayne's World of Cars. However i specifically bought a subaru from a couple who took their car there and Wayne's misdiagnosed a head gasket failure and said it just needed a water pump.
Since i believe you own a subaru or have a friend with a subaru, you should take this into consideration.
What's a good indy shop in Round Rock Texas?
Let's make this a sticky: good indy shops
a friend recommends Wayne's World of Cars. However i specifically bought a subaru from a couple who took their car there and Wayne's misdiagnosed a head gasket failure and said it just needed a water pump.
Since i believe you own a subaru or have a friend with a subaru, you should take this into consideration.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
That stands for a "sucker" born every minute.
As long as it is directed at all people duped by both indy and dealer shenanigans, then the image is appropriate. If directed at the OP, then the poster obviously didn't read the original thread and is just being rude. Notice that the OP DID deny the other services recommended.
This is an excellent educational thread. The OP was in one of "those situations". The car was on the rack and the technician "proved" (maybe) that the hub was going bad. The OP could have denied the repair, only to have to deal with it later. Maybe saving himself bigger $$ if he DIY'd it, or only saving $30 - $40 if he took it to an indy. So, maybe just get it done and be over with it. Maybe he should have asked for the old part back (law) and if someone else said the part was still good, he could have gone after the Honda dealer.
Classic buyer's remorse. Been there, done that. What's done is done. Not a huge expense. Live and learn for the next time.
Thanks for sharing Otis.
Thank you sir, well said.
I was in one of "those situation" I did call a Indy shop from the waiting room and got there price, it was within a few dollars of the dealerships quoted price. And you'r 100% correct i didnt have any of the other services performed and i made sure the warranty was honored.
The shrug was deffinately sarcastic... What the poster gets from trying to belittle another member is beyond me.. Im guess they didnt read the whole post.
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
That stands for a "sucker" born every minute.
As long as it is directed at all people duped by both indy and dealer shenanigans, then the image is appropriate. If directed at the OP, then the poster obviously didn't read the original thread and is just being rude. Notice that the OP DID deny the other services recommended.
This is an excellent educational thread. The OP was in one of "those situations". The car was on the rack and the technician "proved" (maybe) that the hub was going bad. The OP could have denied the repair, only to have to deal with it later. Maybe saving himself bigger $$ if he DIY'd it, or only saving $30 - $40 if he took it to an indy. So, maybe just get it done and be over with it. Maybe he should have asked for the old part back (law) and if someone else said the part was still good, he could have gone after the Honda dealer.
Classic buyer's remorse. Been there, done that. What's done is done. Not a huge expense. Live and learn for the next time.
Thanks for sharing Otis.
Thank you sir, well said.
I was in one of "those situation" I did call a Indy shop from the waiting room and got there price, it was within a few dollars of the dealerships quoted price. And you'r 100% correct i didnt have any of the other services performed and i made sure the warranty was honored.
The shrug was deffinately sarcastic... What the poster gets from trying to belittle another member is beyond me.. Im guess they didnt read the whole post.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If I were in OP's shoes, I would have insisted on new rotors. Cutting rotors is NEVER a solution but only a band aid. If I had paid for new rotors, I want to them replaced if there is a warranty on it.
Our local dealership will resurface once. and thats what they did with the car a year ago "recondition the rotors" and new pads. Im not doing nearly the overtime i used to and i have much more free time now, the next brake job on the Honda will be in Otis's Garage
If I were in OP's shoes, I would have insisted on new rotors. Cutting rotors is NEVER a solution but only a band aid. If I had paid for new rotors, I want to them replaced if there is a warranty on it.
Our local dealership will resurface once. and thats what they did with the car a year ago "recondition the rotors" and new pads. Im not doing nearly the overtime i used to and i have much more free time now, the next brake job on the Honda will be in Otis's Garage
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If I were in OP's shoes, I would have insisted on new rotors. Cutting rotors is NEVER a solution but only a band aid. If I had paid for new rotors, I want to them replaced if there is a warranty on it.
The reason for most comebacks is because excessive lateral runout will lead to thickness variation, which will then result in a pedal pulsation.
A good resurfacing job is every bit as good as a new rotor. Of course, the trouble is finding someone who can do a good job of resurfacing the rotors. If the dealer was using an on-the-vehicle lathe, that is probably a better solution than new rotors.
Other than being a textbook theory, I've yet to see any evidence that cutting rotors will cause them to "warp faster" (whatever the technically explanation of that is, anyway) under normal conditions.
If I were in OP's shoes, I would have insisted on new rotors. Cutting rotors is NEVER a solution but only a band aid. If I had paid for new rotors, I want to them replaced if there is a warranty on it.
The reason for most comebacks is because excessive lateral runout will lead to thickness variation, which will then result in a pedal pulsation.
A good resurfacing job is every bit as good as a new rotor. Of course, the trouble is finding someone who can do a good job of resurfacing the rotors. If the dealer was using an on-the-vehicle lathe, that is probably a better solution than new rotors.
Other than being a textbook theory, I've yet to see any evidence that cutting rotors will cause them to "warp faster" (whatever the technically explanation of that is, anyway) under normal conditions.
Fact is on modern vehicles (past 15-20 years or so) the thickness of OEM rotors is pretty slight, so any attempt to cut them is usually putting that rotor in the vicinity of less then the minimum thickness required for proper operation. The thinner the rotor the generally the more susceptible it is to warping. Best bet now is to simple replace (what most car markers suggest) than to resurface.
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