My Echo blower first ever starting issue.

[KrisZ]

I hope this helps someone with starting issues.

Mine is a PB-255LN model that I bought around 2013-2014.

Didn’t want to start all of the sudden. Sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake and still nothing.
Checked the spark, it had spark.
So I had to tear it down.

After some poking around I found out the coil has some adjustment to it. Started messing with it and got the blower to start, but was running rough. At least I knew I was on the right track.

Hit the old google and there is an Echo instructional video on how to set the gap between the coil and the flywheel. They recommend using a business card, but I didn’t have one.
I used my daughters coloring paper, which is a bit thinker then normal paper.

I settled for the gap with the paper folded twice, as that’s where the engine run the best. Seems a lot larger than a business card, but it is what it is I guess. You need to use your judgment and run the engine.

Not a big deal, but the whole thing had to be disassembled to get to the coil.

 

[nwjones18]

Makes you wonder how it ever got off to start with.. I've reset the coil on a few motors I've worked on and the business card spacing must be pretty universal. Same for briggs flat head engines. Glad you got it fixed. I've used a post it note folded in half before and that gap worked fine for the motor I was messing with.

 

[JHZR2]

I’ll check this with my 17ish year old echo blower. I think mine needs a carb service but might as well tune up the whole thing…

 

[PWMDMD]

I have a 20-year-old Echo blower with some serious hours on it and I've done absolutely no maintenance on it. I leave stale fuel in it all winter and the thing starts right up and runs like a top. Easily the best small engine I've ever owned.

 

[KrisZ]

I forgot about this thread, but the blower didn't work for long.

After about a week I needed it and tried starting, but it wouldn't start. I think it's timing, but the key is in perfect condition. It will pop every once in a while if I pull on it for long enough.
Honestly I'm at a loss as to what's wrong with this thing.
Here is what I did/try:
- Spark, check. I even put in the spark plug from my Echo trimmer as they are the same and still nothing.
- Put in new coil, just in case the old one was putting out a weak spark, no change.
- I checked the stop switch and it showed continuity when in the ON position. I disconnected it and removed the ground just to make sure the switch wasn't acting up intermittently. No Effect.
- Fuel, check. The spark plug gets wet. Starter fluid has no effect.
- Air filter, clean.
- Spark arrestor screen, pretty much perfect.
- Compression, check. The cylinder walls and rings look normal. No scoring or heat damage discoloration.
- There is no play in the crankshaft bearings, it's nice and tight. Everything that needs to move, moves freely.
- I played with different air gaps on the ignition coil with little effect.

I simply have no idea what's wrong with this thing at this point. Is there anything I missed?

I bought a backpack blower, but it would still be nice to rescue this thing as it is in extremely good shape overall and I could use it for small things.

 

[Nukeman7]

I forgot about this thread, but the blower didn't work for long.

After about a week I needed it and tried starting, but it wouldn't start. I think it's timing, but the key is in perfect condition. It will pop every once in a while if I pull on it for long enough.
Honestly I'm at a loss as to what's wrong with this thing.
Here is what I did/try:
- Spark, check. I even put in the spark plug from my Echo trimmer as they are the same and still nothing.
- Put in new coil, just in case the old one was putting out a weak spark, no change.

This is a classic sign that it is a coil issue. I know that you replaced the coil, but have you visually verified that you actually have a spark by using a spark tester** or by removing the plug and grounding it to the engine block it while pulling the starter cord? If not, you will need to do so to eliminate the coil/gap/magneto as the root cause. Just replacing the spark plug with a new one does not mean your new/old coil is generating adequate current. If you can visually confirm a good strong spark, then it may be bad timing or possibly a clogged spark arrestor screen on the muffler.

**Harbor Freight Spark Tester

**Adjustable Gap Spark Tester

 

[KrisZ]

This is a classic sign that it is a coil issue. I know that you replaced the coil, but have you visually verified that you actually have a spark by using a spark tester** or by removing the plug and grounding it to the engine block it while pulling the starter cord? If not, you will need to do so to eliminate the coil/gap/magneto as the root cause. Just replacing the spark plug with a new one does not mean your new/old coil is generating adequate current. If you can visually confirm a good strong spark, then it may be bad timing or possibly a clogged spark arrestor screen on the muffler.

**Harbor Freight Spark Tester

**Adjustable Gap Spark Tester

Yes, I also visually inspected for spark and both were the same.

 

[mk378]

Fuel, check. The spark plug gets wet. Starter fluid has no effect.

That is flooding. Adding more fuel (starter fluid) does not help, it will still not fire as it's already too rich.

I've had this happen to a chain saw from a broken diaphragm in the carb. Remove carb entirely and pull several times to clear the excess.

 

[KrisZ]

That is flooding. Adding more fuel (starter fluid) does not help, it will still not fire as it's already too rich.

I've had this happen to a chain saw from a broken diaphragm in the carb. Remove carb entirely and pull several times to clear the excess.

That is after many pulls. It's normal it will flood. All of the things I described were done over several days. I used starter fluid after cleaning the spark plug, it wasn't flooded then.

 

[Ursatdx]

I have a 20-year-old Echo blower with some serious hours on it and I've done absolutely no maintenance on it. I leave stale fuel in it all winter and the thing starts right up and runs like a top. Easily the best small engine I've ever owned.

My Echo back pack is at least 20 years old and is, without doubt, the most reliable piece of OPE I own.

 

[Cujet]

I'm a capable mechanic, and like you, know how to properly check for spark, fuel, a clean and functional carb, and all the other wonderful things that make an engine run. Yet, every once in a while, I come across an engine that is just "difficult". When that happens, I always start with the basics, new plug, new carb, remove the muffler, make sure the fuel tank vent (it is on the end of a hose) is not clogged (a huge issue on Echo stuff, I can't stress this enough) and if possible, check timing.

I had a mid '70's Honda 350 single cylinder motorcycle that had everything fuel/spark/compression/etc, and still wouldn't start. Even when towing it behind a car. The next morning, it finally started after pushing it down the road. I made sure it was not flooded by removing the carb and spark plug and towing it. etc. Just a cantankerous little beast that needed the battery to be above 12v to provide enough spark to start. I ended up overhauling the engine with a big bore piston, and replacing everything electrical I could think of. In the end, it could not generate enough spark power to overcome the effects of compression. That bike always needed a tight spark plug gap to reliably start. Ran nicely once started. The fine wire electrode NGK plugs helped a bunch.

 

[KrisZ]

I'm a capable mechanic, and like you, know how to properly check for spark, fuel, a clean and functional carb, and all the other wonderful things that make an engine run. Yet, every once in a while, I come across an engine that is just "difficult". When that happens, I always start with the basics, new plug, new carb, remove the muffler, make sure the fuel tank vent (it is on the end of a hose) is not clogged (a huge issue on Echo stuff, I can't stress this enough) and if possible, check timing.

The thing is though, that this blower was never difficult and run beautifully for 10 years.
Prior to it completely failing to start, I did have a few instances when the blower was hot from using and was difficult to re-start.
I dismissed it as the engine getting too hot, but now thinking about it, perhaps there is a correlation.

 

[spasm3]

Did you buy an echo coil?
Have you replaced the fuel lines? Does it pump fuel with the sqeeze bulb?

What is the compression number?

 

[KrisZ]

Did you buy an echo coil?
Have you replaced the fuel lines? Does it pump fuel with the sqeeze bulb?

What is the compression number?

Yes, new echo coil
Fuel lines are fine and pump the gas no problem, plus fuel lines are irrelevant when using starter fluid
No number on the compression, but it feels strong, the thing will jump out of your hands if you don't hold it down.

I have a feeling it's something stupid I overlooked.

 

[Cujet]

Yes, new echo coil
Fuel lines are fine and pump the gas no problem, plus fuel lines are irrelevant when using starter fluid
No number on the compression, but it feels strong, the thing will jump out of your hands if you don't hold it down.

I have a feeling it's something stupid I overlooked.

Try loosening the fuel cap. No kidding. I've had recurring problems with no fuel flow.

Not sure what starting fluid you are using, but today's starting sprays are often worse than useless. Try pouring a touch of two stroke gas in the carb, maybe 1/2 ounce.

 

[KrisZ]

Try loosening the fuel cap. No kidding. I've had recurring problems with no fuel flow.

Not sure what starting fluid you are using, but today's starting sprays are often worse than useless. Try pouring a touch of two stroke gas in the carb, maybe 1/2 ounce.

I usually use carb cleaner and some wd40 for lubrication.

Thanks for all the suggestions, my garage is way too hot for me to want and work on that thing. I will get to it probably late fall when the temps are back to bearable.

 

[AnthemBassMan]

If you have fuel, spark, timing, and compression, the next thing that should be checked are the crankshaft seals. 2 stroke engines need to be airtight. Even though you may have good compression in the cylinder, it could be sucking air through the crank seals.

L8R,
Matt