My car over-heated!

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Manitoba, Canada
Here is what happened:
I pulled into a station and kept car idling while I learned the doors were locked for a minute. So I looked in the trunk for something I misplaced.
Went in, got a few lottery tickets checked.
Got in the car, temp guage was maybe 1 mm greater than normal max. Drove toward home, got her up to 5000-6000 rpm . Also did some coasting, in gear and in neutral. Got maybe 1 km from that gas station and noticed the heat temp needle was just a few mm shy of the red zone. Babbied it into the driveway. Shut off engine after maybe 20 secs of 'the turbo effect' (let it sit idling so oil can circulate excess heat away from hot engine parts, like on a turbo car after driving fast)
Locked her up, and heard a gurgling from under the hood. It was dark and those keychain mini-lights are great at times but rather inadequate in this case. Noise was coming from upper rad hose, it was vibrating and making a noise that was sort of a gurgle but more of a farting sort of noise. I grabbed the upper hose and it was warm, maybe you could call it pleasantly warm but sure not hot or scalding. When I squeezed it I'm sure it was filled with air, not liquid.
Rad cap was cool. Coolant recovery overflow was NOT full (I thought that maybe the rad cap had been putting fluid into the recovery reservoir so that it would be full) No obvious hot-spots in the engine (like the rad glowing red or anything) Electric fan that cuts in when it gets too hot, was NOT on at all, from the PetroCan to home or after parking. I have definately heard it recently.
If there was a puddle of coolant coming from under my car when I came from the door of the PetroCan, I think I'd see it but I've been kinda absent-minded lately.
This morning I drove 20+ km on a mainly-100 zone; and I exceeded 5000 and likely approached 6000 rpm. PERHAPS while enjoying the view I MAY have exceeded the limit by a few, for a few seconds...
grin.gif

What may be more significant is that I decided to do a 'driving mini-flush' of the heater core; namely that I had 2 windows rolled down, turned the heat to full hot and the fan to full blast (which I don't even do in the winter) and switched the mode switch from vent to defrost to floor, all of them a few mins at a time.
I will TRY to recover coolant for a sample; whether that works or not I will remove cap when it is cold in the morning, fill with water, look hard for leaks and the like, and get it to a garage. I have a jug of Prestone in the trunk, too.
What do you think the problem is?
I will be having flush done with 'routine' replacement of cap and thermostat.

The following may be somewhat applicable:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=000398;p=1#000000

THANKS!
Rob

[ September 29, 2003, 03:02 AM: Message edited by: rob-the-oil-nut ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Christopher R. Wise:
I the first thing I would suspect is the thermostat sticking closed.
Really?
Then it's a (relatively) minor thing

Was the the coolant level in the radiator full????
I did not check, sorry

External leaks??
None that I saw

What vehicle??
1993 Hyundai Elantra. POC to many, baby to me
wink.gif


Thanks! (pardon me for not un-bolding text at this hour
wink.gif

Rob

[ September 29, 2003, 03:34 AM: Message edited by: rob-the-oil-nut ]
 
If the level is full, the thermostat may be sticking. Or possible water pump not pumping water ( kinda rare).

If the level is very low, and there is no external leaks, you may have a head gasket problem.

Drive belt still there????

CRW

[ September 29, 2003, 04:13 AM: Message edited by: Christopher R. Wise ]
 
If temp is normal while driving but heats up a stop, fan or temp sensor for fan is bad.

If when you turned on the heater and no hot air was present, then water was low. Also, if low enough, the water wouldn't get to the top water temp sensor and would indicate cold or slightly warm on gauge. possible cause, small leak, head, water hose, radiator, or weak radiator cap.

If therm sticking, you'll see the temp rise and then drop, usually abnormal for gauge as it would stay in same place all the time. seems you idicated it was increasingly moving up and staying up. If temp goes up and stays up in all conditions, driving and sitting, therm or water pump is bad. Normally water pump will pump but blow seals and leak.
 
If the radiator has horizontal tubes (my chevy truck has horizontal and my Nissan has vertical), and the lower tubes are clogged with sediment/rust/errant gobs of gasket seal or whatever..the radiator will be unable to transfer as much heat as it would if all tubes were free flowing. The consequence of that could also be the same as a defective heat sensitive fan clutch. The fan clutch won't engage because the radiator is not transfering heat enough for the fan clutch to feel it. The resevoir tank on the end of the radiator also will not contribute to the amount of coolant flowing through the radiator as well because those lower tubes are clogged, adding insult to injury so to speak. You can feel by hand (after shutting off the engine!!!) the difference in temp of the upper part and the lower part of the radiator if the lower tubes are clogged. If the radiator is several years old that condition can sneak up on you, also the cooling fins eventually get clogged with debris/bugs/closed up by physical contact and the heat transfer is reduced...
Sometimes after several years a new radiator, or at least a new core is not a bad idea. Sometimes they can be rodded out and cleaned up but sometimes it is just as cost effective to get a new core replacement (depends on if you have a small town shop available or just a high priced fix/it place that makes it sound like a major job. Newer aluminum rad cores are usually better replaced than rodded...kindof tender compared to older heavier radiators...
Good luck
Rando
 
Well, thankyou very much, all of you. Greatly appreciated. It's over, now. "4 to 4.5 hours" spent flushing (after putting the last of the coolant in a jub so I can send samples to the lab) and checking and checking. New rad cap, new thermostat (and gasket, of course). Kept it under $115 (CDN). I won't say the name of the place but it's in WPG, sorta by the main cop shop and sorta by the Planetarium.

In my rush, I took the above origional posting, copied it to Word and printed it. Gave it to the guy for a full background, just in case and to let the guys working on it know. He says 'so you cruise along at 6000 rpm on a 10 year old Hyundai, and you want us to try to find out why it broke...is that it?'
lol.gif


BTW: 1) They left over a few ounces of the antifreeze. I ran the car until it was fully hot, then poured the last of the Prestone into the coolant recovery reservoir. I know that's not the official thing to do, but I figure the worst thing that could happen is that I waste $1 worth of antifreeze at some point. But I sense someone out there can add a few pointers to that.
2) Regretably the water is from the taps, not RO, but then again WPG is not known for bad or hard water.
3) I couldn't find my WaterWetter in time. Should I try to get it added ASAP or is it better to just wait until spring anyway?
4) I pushed up my plan for cleanest engine in Canada. I'm just hours away from Amsoil flush, followed by fresh dino with Auto-RX, which will be put in a second time. As I said on another post, I plan quite the tests on the RedLine that is in there now. My contribution to this board.
THANKS
Rob
 
Well I hate to say the other possibility is pretty bad. This site describes it pretty well

Litt's Overheating Hypothesis

In short, A head gasket leaking exhaust gas into the radiator fluid can cause a gas pocket that gets trapped at the thermostat, acts as an insulator and keeps it from opening. The leak can be such as only the exhaust gas under pressure gets into the radiator fluid, with out ever having radiator fluid get into the exhaust chamber.
 
Well, it's never happened in the past, and I'll let you know if it happens again.
That site is a theory that he himself admits is less than 100%, publicized the theory in '99 and I for one have not heard much about it since.
Since the head is under 2 years old, I gather that the head gasket is, as well. And since the previous one lasted 10 years I gather that the new one will last, too.
The aforementioned rad shop was not the first place where I asked how I could get a car to over-heat. That would be quite the boon at -30
grin.gif

Regards
Rob
 
Litt's hypothesis is alive and well in mopar 2.2/2.5s. The cure is a tiny hole drilled in the thermostat to burp the exhaust gas out and get hot water under the pellet.
 
I assume this is the same car that grenaded.

Rob - the cause of this overheating has yet to be explained.
They won't let you have the car because the brakes are unsafe.
You floor, WFO, a car "with issues" in top gear at 22 mph.
The car grenades.
Cause and failure mode to be determined.
 
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