I did the high mileage treatment on a Ford modular 4.6 v8 with 250,000 miles.
The auto rx worked well at some things and not well at others. I could see deposit/sludge build up through the oil fill tube before this started and after the two complete cycles I can't notice any difference in this area. However, I had some varnish on the oil dipstick which is now gone.
I also had some leaky valve seals and at the end of the application I still see no difference in area either.
The engine had a very quit "tick" at the rear of the drivers side valve cover and the "tick has gone away.
I used spertech 10w30 for the first clean/rinse phase and to reduce consumption (from the leaking valve seals) used Havoline 20w-50 for the second clean phase and Motorcraft 15w40 for the final rinse. The directions were followed to the letter and motorcraft filters were used throughout the treatment.
So to sum thing up for my application:
Deposits/sludge-no difference noticed except for the varnish on the dipstick
leaky valve seals-no difference noted except when 20w-50 was used. 10w30 and 15w40 burn about a quart every 500-800 miles before and after auto rx. I fully understand the valve seals need replaced and they will be soon but I am just including this for reference. The 20w-50 cut consumption way down to about 1 quart every 1500 miles but made the engine feel slugish.
"tick" in the top of the engine-completely gone
I was just wonering if I missed a secret auto rx rule to use a certain brand or weight of oil because to be honest I was a little let down at the amount of "cleaning" of the sludge and deposits because it seems most everyone on here had better cleaning results than I did.
Overall I am happy with the auto rx and consider the treatment worth the time, money, and effort. I just wish it cleaned MY engine a little better.
The auto rx worked well at some things and not well at others. I could see deposit/sludge build up through the oil fill tube before this started and after the two complete cycles I can't notice any difference in this area. However, I had some varnish on the oil dipstick which is now gone.
I also had some leaky valve seals and at the end of the application I still see no difference in area either.
The engine had a very quit "tick" at the rear of the drivers side valve cover and the "tick has gone away.
I used spertech 10w30 for the first clean/rinse phase and to reduce consumption (from the leaking valve seals) used Havoline 20w-50 for the second clean phase and Motorcraft 15w40 for the final rinse. The directions were followed to the letter and motorcraft filters were used throughout the treatment.
So to sum thing up for my application:
Deposits/sludge-no difference noticed except for the varnish on the dipstick
leaky valve seals-no difference noted except when 20w-50 was used. 10w30 and 15w40 burn about a quart every 500-800 miles before and after auto rx. I fully understand the valve seals need replaced and they will be soon but I am just including this for reference. The 20w-50 cut consumption way down to about 1 quart every 1500 miles but made the engine feel slugish.
"tick" in the top of the engine-completely gone
I was just wonering if I missed a secret auto rx rule to use a certain brand or weight of oil because to be honest I was a little let down at the amount of "cleaning" of the sludge and deposits because it seems most everyone on here had better cleaning results than I did.
Overall I am happy with the auto rx and consider the treatment worth the time, money, and effort. I just wish it cleaned MY engine a little better.
