My $200 beater - 2003 Pontiac Vibe

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Bought this 2003 Pontiac Vibe for my wife, as she can only drive automatic. It comes with 1zz-fe Toyota engine and 4-speed Automatic transmission.

My wife's co-worker got another car from her uncle, and she was about to give this poor car to the junkyard, and they offered $200 for it. She has put about 294000 kms - 183000 miles in 15 years.

We offered her same price (+ $100 for a set of winter tires/rims) and bought it as is. Fixed the door handle, and passed safety & e-test!

The good: It's driven mostly on the highway, motor and drivetrain are relatively in good condition. Despite the high mileage, there is no noticeable oil & coolant consumption. We have put about 1000 kms after we got it.

The bad: The interior was so dirty. There were many stubborn stains on the seat cushion. We even found some sand, mud, pencil, coins, flashlight, Tim Horton's coffee cups, hedge shears, Canadian Pesos issued in 1989 and many unidentified items underneath the back seat. It took almost three weekends to clean the interior. As you can see in the first picture, there are some big rust spots on the roof. The windshield must be changed to fix this. It costs around $700-800 including the windshield.

I have just changed motor oil (VWB) new air filter, and changed ATF (just drain and fill) twice. I changed it twice because I hesitate to flush all dirty fluid at once, decided to change it partially every 3-5k until the fluid looks clean. It takes 12 quarts of oil, but only 3 quarts drained out.

To do list (at 300.000 kms):

- Will drain and fill ATF again. There is no slipping, but no reason to keep the fluid dirty. However, I am too lazy to drop the pan and change transmission filter. I already changed it twice with Toyota ATF T-IV, but next time I will use Valvoline Maxlife ATF.
- I will change power steering fluid with Maxlife ATF.
- Changing spark plugs, PCV valve and clean MAF sensor.
- Drain and fill engine coolant few times. My question is, should I change the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and hoses all together at once while draining the old coolant? Everything works fine so far, but the coolant looks dark and there is no service history.

Here are some pics,







Thanks for reading! I look forward to read your opinions about cooling system overhaul.

Dan.
 
Someone was sending THAT to the junkyard? Some people have no respect for a running car lol. Ive seem people drive in cars 10x worse. That car would sell for $1500 here in NC (once cleaned up)

I wouldn't bother changing any cooling system parts just yet. Just closely inspect and change the fluid.

I would use Maxlife 5w30 in the engine, but thats just my opinion.
 
Check hoses and belts, replace if in doubt. Do it at the same time you do other similar tasks.

Exchange the brake fluid.

Take fuses out and back to insure good contact.

Inspect and clean battery terminals.

Pat yourself on the back for catching a good deal(s).
 
It's amazing what some people do to their cars.

I'd change out the coolant and clean the MAF. Other than that, you should be able to get another 100k miles out of it.

My Corolla has the same or similar engine in it. I've had to replace the intake and valve cover gaskets and the timing chain tensioner O-ring and O2 sensors. Easy stuff.

I've very good luck using Denso spark plugs. Other have good luck with NGK. Those are the only two brands I'd consider using.
 
Killer deal.
I am interested to see the oil consumption and know the maintenance history. From the outside it looks great.
 
Thanks for all feedbacks!

I will change out the coolant only, and check the water pump (spinning by hand) & hoses while replacing the serpentine belt. If the water pump pulley doesn't rotate smoothly, will replace everything all together.

Originally Posted By: Dorian
Killer deal.
I am interested to see the oil consumption and know the maintenance history. From the outside it looks great.


I got Denso PK16TT from Rock Auto, $2 each. We have put 600 miles and oil is still at maximum level on the stick. OCI will be around 3-4k with conventional oil.

Originally Posted By: SpecM
Someone was sending THAT to the junkyard? Some people have no respect for a running car lol. Ive seem people drive in cars 10x worse. That car would sell for $1500 here in NC (once cleaned up)

I wouldn't bother changing any cooling system parts just yet. Just closely inspect and change the fluid.

I would use Maxlife 5w30 in the engine, but thats just my opinion.


Her mechanic wanted to charge her $430 + tax for door handle fix and rear wiper motor to pass the safety test. Since she's got a new car, she didn't want to spend that amount to the old one, she wants to get rid of it instead.

I would have used Maxlife, but I found VWB for $10 ($7 usd) and couldn't resist. I have 3 jugs on hand, but I will definitely switch to Maxlife after using them.
 
Also add to your to do list, buy a junk yard cluster gauge as the odometer will stop at 299,999 kms. mileage is stored in the cluster, not the ECU. Intake manifold gasket, if black, is original and will need to be replaced with a revised orange one. PCV valve should be changed too, easy to do, write down the PN on the valve and give it to the dealer, there are 2 valves for this engine with different threads. 3.2 US qts for a drain and refill on trans. nice find.
 
Tim Horton's cups AND Mexican Peso's ? Ah, the stories that car could tell
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: rubberchicken
Tim Horton's cups AND Mexican Peso's ? Ah, the stories that car could tell
smile.gif



I guess it's seen all of North America's finest! All it's missing is a MR. SUB wrapper.
 
2003 mfg year Toyota fixed the major oil consumption problems with that engine (1998-02). If you can, find out what year that engine was manufactured so you know what to expect.
 
Originally Posted By: dgunay


As you can see in the first picture, there are some big rust spots on the roof. The windshield must be changed to fix this. It costs around $700-800 including the windshield.

Dan.


I'd consider trying to work around that, though it'll still be a very good deal if you end up paying to get it done.

Your main options would seem to be

(a) A bodge/holding action. You could do this and then go for a more thorough job later, when you've got a bit more experience with the car.

(b) Do it yourself. I've removed and replaced windscreens on (older) cars with ones from a scrapyard. Wasn't very difficult, but I've not done it on a newer car and I suppose the screen might be glued in, so DIY might not be possible.

(c) Pay to have it done.

Bit more on the bodge/holding action, which would probably be my first choice.

I'd abrade the rust you can get at with aluminium, using something runny as a binder, which should also seep in around the window seal. I did this with my Skywing here and it stopped the rust I could see and also stopped the window leaking, so it probably at least slowed the rust I couldn't see.

Very easy to do and cost nothing.

It looks bad, like it was patched with metallic primer, which it was essentially (the car is/was red) but I havn't attempted to paint over it, partly because I'll probably need to re-treat it occaisionally, and partly because I don't care what it looks like.

It is what it is, i.e. possibly the oldest, ugliest car in Taiwan.

I think its better than primer, though, because when you abrade with aluminium (by power or by hand) its forced into fairly intimate contact with the steel surface, giving better protection.

Since your car is silvery, the contrast would be less, and it might also be easier to paint over.

For binder I've mostly used sunflower or linseed oil, but if I could get it here I'd try an alkyd resin like penetrol, which would set quicker, especially in a cold climate. You might be able to dry the area of the window seal first using alcohol.

Discussed a bit more here

http://bangernomics.editboard.com/t178-treating-topsides-rust

Large rust-patch on the tailgate

4649059025_801b4ff788.jpg


Deep pitting next to the window seal

4649677666_221b42bbd9.jpg
 
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I love reading stories like this. Its an awesome deal, as long as you don't over do on the repairs. Use your imagination and patch up whatever you can at minimal or no cost to you. Do adequate but minimal maintenance. With just the very basic care you can get years of service out of it.

Here is my recommendation for less than $20: Concentrated injector cleaner like Techron, and a can of Restore at next oil change. .
 
Change the coolant but not any of the other system parts you mention.

If that rust starts jacking the windshield glass you'll get a stress crack. But at that point you'll decide to change the windshield, something you've been considering already. This could be years from now!
 
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