MULTI-GRADE VS. SINGLE GRADE

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"over priced", "skimpiest add-package"
i have trouble believing that without verification. do you have a link or two please?
 
I will use this new stuff in all my power equipment, got 5 cases on order.

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I finally got my definitive answer on the subject this weekend. My mower quit running so I had to get into the carb to do some cleaning. When I removed the plastic engine cover, there it was: the Tecumseh factory sticker with model #, date of manufacture (1995), and oil recommendation (SAE30 or 5W30).

I had been a little worried about my recent switch to Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 since the oil fill cap says SAE30 on it, but not any more. If it was determined ok in 1995, I think it's safe with a new SM synthetic. Plus, the mower is running better than ever!
 
I am with Bror Jace

Today multi-vis oils are far better and shear less. Of course companies will put more effort and reasearch into the product they sell in more volume, so single grade oils will be neglected - common sense.

Regarding startup wear, often these engines trimmers, tractors, push mowers) are started and stopped many times, so I prefer lower startup viscosity, hence multi-vis oil. Of course, if you fire up a lawn tractor and run it for 1-2 hours straight then single grade is fine as well.

Temps vary and depend on the load. I happen to have a weak engine (16HP) on my lawn tractor so it experiences higher load, hence I'll go 15W40 HDEO. If your engine is under normal/low load then you'll stick to 10W30 or straight 30. So depends not only on ambient temps but also run duration, load, etc.

You could use synthetic if you really want to take good care of it. However, if they work hard and possibly experience higher temps (air cooled), then I'd prefer dino HDEO to clean it and change oil more often to remove particles. I'd prefer 2 dino changes to a longer synthetic OCI. Also, more frequent changes will remove sheared multi-vis oil so you don't have to worry about viscosity loss as much.

Again, synthetic can also be a good choice for other circumstances, especially lighter load use, winter, etc. In fact I do use a 0W30 synthetic in my snowblower because we go to 0F and lower, so startup wear is bigger issue.
 
Watching maintenance for small engines on a long term construction site, 10 years so far, keeping air filter, oil and air path clean was more important than the oil used. Turns out a lot of engines on the site were burning up because of gunk in the air path to cool the engine. Just a little bit of stuff made the difference.
 
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