I know nothing about exhaust systems. my original '99 nissan maxima muffler is starting to rust through and I'm planning to replace it myself. Nissan OEM is >$200. Bosal is ~$110. Maremont is ~100. Walker is ~$150. all the aftermarkets say OEM replacement. what things should I consider here? what would you guys recommend? thanks.
muffler gurus I need your advice
- Thread starter sky jumper
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Perhaps you can buy yourself a couple of extra years by repairing the old muffler.
Walker sells front-to-back bolt-ons in stainless with lifetime warranty. Single exhaust, with resonator, universal cat, 2 mufflers in line for my old Elantra 4 banger was only $292.00, and again, it all bolts together starting the bottom of the manifold riser. It was on the car over three years and never showed rust, except the cat turned blue and yellowish from the heat..
Best part was, it fit perfectly.
Best part was, it fit perfectly.
too crazy - are you talking about the Dynomax stuff? isn't that a loud perfomance system? also, where did you buy it? on the website they only list muffler shops.
No, no, It was from Olympus Auto parts, but Car Quest can get them too. They're plumbed and flowed for stock specs. Mufflers are nice and quiet. Stainless steel inside and out. When you consider the the rotter galvanized pipe Midas sells, whacking/replacing this section this year for $150.00, then another section next year for $150.00, year after year and all you get is a free (but equally-crapppy) galvanized muffler, $250 or $300 for a nice stainless system seems like a pretty good deal, yes? No?
These aren't Dyno-Flow, or if they are, they're stock Walker. I also dislike noisy exhaust, another reason ricers and Hardly-Ablesons make me wanna hurl. I have no idea how these guys are getting away with open-pipe 120DB exhaust sitting at their miserable bumpy idle without the cops getting in on it. They're removing an EPA-approved and required muffler and running them technically on illegal pipes, but what are ya gonna do?
But I digress, as usual..
Good luck!
These aren't Dyno-Flow, or if they are, they're stock Walker. I also dislike noisy exhaust, another reason ricers and Hardly-Ablesons make me wanna hurl. I have no idea how these guys are getting away with open-pipe 120DB exhaust sitting at their miserable bumpy idle without the cops getting in on it. They're removing an EPA-approved and required muffler and running them technically on illegal pipes, but what are ya gonna do?
But I digress, as usual..
Good luck!
My kid recently got a OEM Honda muffler on eBay for $59. Might try that.
P.B.
P.B.
You will not want the Bosal. For a stock sound, I vote Walker. I also vote for an install at a muffler shop, with the parts you have purchased yourself. I agree that a lot of shops install cheap parts, but it is a PITA to work on exhaust systems without the car in the air, and the proper tools. It just isn't worth the hassle...
I really can't stand noisy bikes either. Write the mayor of your city. Write the chief of police. Join the AMA... Open pipes are for the track, not the street, and all that bovine scat about "loud pipes save lives" is just that, bovine scat. Apparently to qualify to ride a HD, you must be able to withstand rock concert decibel levels, have no common sense, and not give a flip about anyone else but yourself. The only thing loud pipes do is give all bikers a bad rep, and it's hard enough already.
None of those aftermarket brands will last as long as the Nissan Part. I see people buy the bosal, walkers, cheapos, dynomax (non-performance) they just dont last. On some cars the walkers get louder as they age. Get da Nissan one if you plan on keeping the car
As usual, the original purpose has become...corrupted.
Back to topic, however, it IS a hassle, but the Walker pieces DO bolt together, and assuming your hanging hardware is intact, it's pretty easy. Crush gaskets and bolts go together much nicer than slip-ons and clamps. And no waiting for the gaps to carbon-up and seal, either!
thanks for all the great advice you guys. the nissan part is actually $308 for just the muffler. I'll look for the stainless walker stuff at car quest and do the entire cat back and forget about it for the remainder of my ownership of the car.
are you looking for a direct-bolt on or getting something welded? you should also consider if you want a loud exhaust or not. Magnaflow makes some great universal mufflers for around $50, but they are pretty loud. My friend with a 95 Maxima (4th gen like yours) had a Magnaflow muffler welded on for $65 (included muffler and installation) and its a little loud at low RPMS, but almost silent at the higher RPMs. Have you tried checking out any Maxima forums like http://forums.maxima.org ? They might have some threads on different exhaust for your Maxima and how they sound.
As to material, at a minimum you want an aluminium or aluminium alloy muffler, to help keep it from rusting out. A stainless steel muffler is even better as it is even more rustproof, but it will cost you more. While you're at it, check your pipes from the exhaust manifold all the way back to the tailpipe to see if they're rusty and need replacing.
Don't pay the exhorbitant dealer price. Call all the muffler shops in your area, get a quote from each for the cost of the muffler plus the labor cost for installation and go with the cheapest quote, as long as you also follow the first paragraph above. If you're worried about noise, ask each shop about it.
Don't pay the exhorbitant dealer price. Call all the muffler shops in your area, get a quote from each for the cost of the muffler plus the labor cost for installation and go with the cheapest quote, as long as you also follow the first paragraph above. If you're worried about noise, ask each shop about it.
I'm looking for quiet stock sound, nothing loud. the guys on maxima.org are mostly into loud high performace systems.
ideally I'd just like to bolt it on myself if I can. although if it's going to leak then i'll pay to have it welded.
my impression of the chain muffler shops is that they install the cheapest crap made. it will rot in a couple years and then you have to pay labor for them to replace it even if the muffler itself is covered by warranty. this is what I'd like to avoid. I'd rather get a good durable muffler that will last >5 years to begin with.
I haven't found much info on the contstruction of the models I listed. Walker does say it's "aluminized" whatever that means. the only stainless stuff I've found is low flow and loud like a glass pack.
ideally I'd just like to bolt it on myself if I can. although if it's going to leak then i'll pay to have it welded.
my impression of the chain muffler shops is that they install the cheapest crap made. it will rot in a couple years and then you have to pay labor for them to replace it even if the muffler itself is covered by warranty. this is what I'd like to avoid. I'd rather get a good durable muffler that will last >5 years to begin with.
I haven't found much info on the contstruction of the models I listed. Walker does say it's "aluminized" whatever that means. the only stainless stuff I've found is low flow and loud like a glass pack.
Kestas
Staff member
As far as material grade, here is the list from worst to best:
1. steel
2. aluminized steel (aluminum coated steel)
3. 409 stainless steel (it is magnetic)
4. 316 stainless steel (it is nonmagnetic)
Except for sensitized welds that can crack in corrosive envorinments, the two stainless grades can last the normal life of the car, except in converter applications, which can get too hot for some stainless grades to resist corrosion.
1. steel
2. aluminized steel (aluminum coated steel)
3. 409 stainless steel (it is magnetic)
4. 316 stainless steel (it is nonmagnetic)
Except for sensitized welds that can crack in corrosive envorinments, the two stainless grades can last the normal life of the car, except in converter applications, which can get too hot for some stainless grades to resist corrosion.
I HATE when the Blazer is right!
Actually on the last one, I did one at the front, and at the back, right next to the seams, 7/32. Pressure seems to blow the water outta there when it's running, I think the holes are too small for it to flow out, but when it's running, the stuff is spritzin right on outta there. I think it's useful even with a stainless muffler such as these.
For a Midas or some such, it simply doesn't matter, they're designed to corrode. They aren't even as good as a galvanized garbage can, which I've had sitting there, oh, I dunno, twenty years, and they're still brand new.
I guess Midas wants to see our smiling faces every year no matter what, eh?
Actually on the last one, I did one at the front, and at the back, right next to the seams, 7/32. Pressure seems to blow the water outta there when it's running, I think the holes are too small for it to flow out, but when it's running, the stuff is spritzin right on outta there. I think it's useful even with a stainless muffler such as these.
For a Midas or some such, it simply doesn't matter, they're designed to corrode. They aren't even as good as a galvanized garbage can, which I've had sitting there, oh, I dunno, twenty years, and they're still brand new.
I guess Midas wants to see our smiling faces every year no matter what, eh?
any aluminized/galvanized steel muffler is hopeless. expect to replace it again. typically, these are made from a thinner gauge since they have the anti-rust coating. but these coatings never seem to hold up.
my current muffler is borla and it can be quiet. its a completely stainless (the flanges are different grade stainless and a rust a small bit). this is on the car. the original muffler (and heat shields) rusted away, the replacement flowmaster (someone else's idea) also rusted away. the borla should last the remaining life of the vehicle.
i had an uncoated steel gibson on the old truck. it was 18 guage. it rusted, but seemed to stabilize. the rust didn't flake off. it was heavy (i had to add a hanger) but was very well built. it was bit loud they tell me.
my current muffler is borla and it can be quiet. its a completely stainless (the flanges are different grade stainless and a rust a small bit). this is on the car. the original muffler (and heat shields) rusted away, the replacement flowmaster (someone else's idea) also rusted away. the borla should last the remaining life of the vehicle.
i had an uncoated steel gibson on the old truck. it was 18 guage. it rusted, but seemed to stabilize. the rust didn't flake off. it was heavy (i had to add a hanger) but was very well built. it was bit loud they tell me.
Kestas
Staff member
Tip: I use my dremel to grind off the small weld flash on the overlapping joints, and remove the burrs. This reduces the struggling under the car and helps for an easier fit. I then coat the joints with nickel-based antisieze before installation.
I checked the Walker site and couldn't find offerings for stainless exhaust systems for my cars.
Ditto on drilling at the low point of the muffler. It seems that they forget this detail on aftermarket parts.
I checked the Walker site and couldn't find offerings for stainless exhaust systems for my cars.
Ditto on drilling at the low point of the muffler. It seems that they forget this detail on aftermarket parts.
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