I didn't have enough hours on any individual piece of equipment to feel the need to change this fall, either.
Mower storage for the winter
- Thread starter RazorsEdge
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You get the moisture, acids and contaminants out so they can't work their harm while the lawn mower is sitting.
There is no moisture in the oil when you put it away for the season.
The moisture builds in the sump sitting in the winter as the garage freezes and unfreezes in new or old oil.
There isn't enough acid from one season to do any damage if you followed the manufacturers hourly change schedule TBN keeps it in check.
I don't disagree with that at all.
Question for you all.
This year, the drought conditions combined with my low motivation to actually mow when the grass was long enough, I have used the mowers half as much.
I have T6 15w40 in both and I figure that stuff is strong enough to go two years. Still amber in color.
How big of a deal is it if I don't do the oil service on the tractor and mower until the end of NEXT season? Lots of other posts about storing vehicles say this isn't a big deal.
This year, the drought conditions combined with my low motivation to actually mow when the grass was long enough, I have used the mowers half as much.
I have T6 15w40 in both and I figure that stuff is strong enough to go two years. Still amber in color.
How big of a deal is it if I don't do the oil service on the tractor and mower until the end of NEXT season? Lots of other posts about storing vehicles say this isn't a big deal.
With short hours on the oil, I would just wait until next year.
The main reason to change the oil at the end of the season is so that if the acid neutralizing additives in the oil are depleted, then the oil film can't protect against corrosion.
The main reason to change the oil at the end of the season is so that if the acid neutralizing additives in the oil are depleted, then the oil film can't protect against corrosion.
I run stabil year-round. At the end of the season I park it. Once or twice during the winter I’ll run it for 30 minutes. If I think about it I’ll charge the battery. I changed to using power sports AGM batteries which don’t self-discharge as quickly. Running Stabil has ended most of my spring time issues.
Don't see what running for 30 mins during the winter actually accomplishes.
At my current home the mower only gets stored Jan and Feb, but I still do the same storage prep as I did previously. Remove the plug, add some oil to the cylinder, clean the underside, and spray with fluid film. The air filter and oil get changed as needed throughout the year so I don't necessarily do this before storage.
Fresh gas mixed with Stabil and MMO run it and fog the engine. Change the oil and put it away.
You dont say where you live. I dont do anything, normally right around Christmas I need to clean up the yard again using the mower, zoysia grass now brown at that time of year, leaves here and there...
Two months later - repeat and we start getting into spring.
Two months later - repeat and we start getting into spring.
I'll be mowing through Oct, early nov. So really only storing Dec through March.
Stabil and tcw3 640:1 for last fuel run.
Stabil and tcw3 640:1 for last fuel run.
It depends on where you live . Here in south Louisiana my ZTR mower gets used year round . I have a lot of leaves so every couple of days during the winter I run around the yard and mulch them up . The push mower doesn't get used much so I just crank it up a couple of times a month and let it run for a few minutes .
What do you do for storage prep?
But how old is the mower after this type of service?
Have you had any starting issues?
What climate do you live in?
I live in the North East so we experience cold, snowy winters, hot balmy summers (lately).
It a Yardmachines and its 28 years old. Basic Briggs 3.5 push mower with rear bag.
One year, Mice moved in to the top under the recoil start. Also when fuel changed to E10 from MTBE, had a starting issue.
I simply cleaned the air cleaner sponge and re-oiled it, removed mouse nest and adjusted the mixture screw.
The old fashioned Briggs still sports the original sparkplug. The fancy new champion ez start plug didnt run "right"
Oil gets changed every 2 or 3 seasons. Unit only gets used less than 5 hours a season.
Storage? Fuel gets left in and topped up. If it think it the last mow, it gets a does get a 1/2 oz or so of top oil and Stabil
and run in to the carb for a couple minutes. I don't have a garage at my cabin . Its under the raised front porch; Poor Puppy!
Mower didnt get used this year. Very rainy year, moss and 'shrooms growing everywhere, and we let the wild flowers and grass grow long for the bees that need help. I only have a small 10 ft skirt of lawn around the from and side of the house, and in the back, we are letting the wild creep in. I am, after all, on a hill in a Log cabin on the edge of a state forest
As an aside, my friend went to North Port to check on his property, and his car wouldn't start. It appears that the in-tank fuel pump
gave out. He put stabil in and had a 1/2 tank of gas. I hear FL has E10 fuel now. I Humid area I would like to keep the tank topped up so you don't have moisture condensing on the inside walls of the tank and dripping into the fuel, finding its way to the bottom.
-Ken
But how old is the mower after this type of service?
Have you had any starting issues?
What climate do you live in?
I live in the North East so we experience cold, snowy winters, hot balmy summers (lately).
It a Yardmachines and its 28 years old. Basic Briggs 3.5 push mower with rear bag.
One year, Mice moved in to the top under the recoil start. Also when fuel changed to E10 from MTBE, had a starting issue.
I simply cleaned the air cleaner sponge and re-oiled it, removed mouse nest and adjusted the mixture screw.
The old fashioned Briggs still sports the original sparkplug. The fancy new champion ez start plug didnt run "right"
Oil gets changed every 2 or 3 seasons. Unit only gets used less than 5 hours a season.
Storage? Fuel gets left in and topped up. If it think it the last mow, it gets a does get a 1/2 oz or so of top oil and Stabil
and run in to the carb for a couple minutes. I don't have a garage at my cabin . Its under the raised front porch; Poor Puppy!
Mower didnt get used this year. Very rainy year, moss and 'shrooms growing everywhere, and we let the wild flowers and grass grow long for the bees that need help. I only have a small 10 ft skirt of lawn around the from and side of the house, and in the back, we are letting the wild creep in. I am, after all, on a hill in a Log cabin on the edge of a state forest
As an aside, my friend went to North Port to check on his property, and his car wouldn't start. It appears that the in-tank fuel pump
gave out. He put stabil in and had a 1/2 tank of gas. I hear FL has E10 fuel now. I Humid area I would like to keep the tank topped up so you don't have moisture condensing on the inside walls of the tank and dripping into the fuel, finding its way to the bottom.
-Ken
Assuming some of these questions are directed at me:
Central MN.
In the spring, I do the regular all-around maintenance. it is enough effort to make it a 2-beer timeframe.
In the fall, the last day of service is difficult to actually land on. So, I usually keep the mowers clean of grass, and have non-eth fuel on hand to keep the tractor tank full. I run the push mower dry. That way I can park everything on a moments notice.
Next spring, I was just going to skip the oil changes but do the rest.
Central MN.
In the spring, I do the regular all-around maintenance. it is enough effort to make it a 2-beer timeframe.
In the fall, the last day of service is difficult to actually land on. So, I usually keep the mowers clean of grass, and have non-eth fuel on hand to keep the tractor tank full. I run the push mower dry. That way I can park everything on a moments notice.
Next spring, I was just going to skip the oil changes but do the rest.
short of giving yourself a complex
worrying about if you should have changed the oil I see no reason not to go 2 seasons if that is what you want to do. If it really bothers you I'm guessing a ~$10 oil change isn't worth the ulcer... 2 years won't hurt the mower you are using very good oil in it.Just my $0.02
This procedure seems to work well for most people in my area.
Strive to store the equipment you are currently using in the garage and whatever you are not using during the season, park it in the back lawn where it meets the woodline, and not bother to cover with a tarp or do anything with it. The next year it ends up on craigslist or FB stating - "Ran well when put away last season, and now it won't start. Its probably a simple problem."
I'd stick with what is tried and true.
Strive to store the equipment you are currently using in the garage and whatever you are not using during the season, park it in the back lawn where it meets the woodline, and not bother to cover with a tarp or do anything with it. The next year it ends up on craigslist or FB stating - "Ran well when put away last season, and now it won't start. Its probably a simple problem."
I'd stick with what is tried and true.
In all honesty, I have never NOT changed the oil in anything. So, yeah, this could be a complex! I figure I am in similar company hereshort of giving yourself a complex
Just my $0.02
.And the equipment is always stored in the yard shed.
With my electric mower, I just tuck away in the corner of the garage until spring comes. Its one of the greatest things about owning an electric mower. LOL
Back in the days when I had a gas mower, I would add Stabil to the fuel and make sure that it made its way into the carb. Im more a fan of using Stabil over draining the tank because when you drain the tank, you run the risk of condensation in the tank and in the carb and thats something that you just dont want. Leaving it full prevents condensation and Stabil keeps the fuel from gumming up your engine.
I also would remove the spark plug and pour a bit of oil down the spark plug hole (not much, just a splash really) and turn the engine over a few times to make sure that the oil coated the inside of the engine to protect it from any risk of corrosion.
That was it, I would always wait until the spring to clean/replace the air filter, replace the spark plug, change the oil and sharpen the blade.
Back in the days when I had a gas mower, I would add Stabil to the fuel and make sure that it made its way into the carb. Im more a fan of using Stabil over draining the tank because when you drain the tank, you run the risk of condensation in the tank and in the carb and thats something that you just dont want. Leaving it full prevents condensation and Stabil keeps the fuel from gumming up your engine.
I also would remove the spark plug and pour a bit of oil down the spark plug hole (not much, just a splash really) and turn the engine over a few times to make sure that the oil coated the inside of the engine to protect it from any risk of corrosion.
That was it, I would always wait until the spring to clean/replace the air filter, replace the spark plug, change the oil and sharpen the blade.
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