Moving furnace pressure regulator

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TL; DR Are there any code requirements for placing second stage propane pressure regulators? Any tips for drilling a hole through a ~15"foundation? The plan is to use a 3/4" bit for a 1/2" pipe. The guy I bought my tank from will do the actual install btw as I believe it's illegal for me to do it; just want to clarify. I'd just be putting the pipe in.

More details. We finally bought a new propane tank. Since were changing locations (current one is a rental and outside the living room window), we need a new line ran. One thing the guy didn't like was how close the existing pressure regulator was to the AC/ heat pump as well as the furnace exhaust and intake pipes so it's getting moved to the closest corner of the house to the tank. It'll make running the line from the house to the tank easier too. No utilities, septic lines etc to deal with. (Don't worry, still planning on calling 811.) I'll also have to run a ~25' flexible line from the pipe through the crawl space and to the furnace. No big deal.
 
If you own the tank and the home, it is not illegal for you to do the work to the best of my knowledge. I installed my system many years ago. However if the cost of installation includes the work, might as well use the "free" (included in your payment) labor.

You need a 1" bit for 1/2" black iron pipe; the OD of 1/2" BIP is .840" (much larger than your 3/4 bit).

Propane regulators have an orientation due to the vent; it needs to be pointing down so rain/sleet does not get inside of it. Pretty much all of them have the supply enter from the bottom of the unit, but some have the "out" on the top, versus others have the "out" on the back. I've seen folks install the orientation wrong because they got the wrong type regulator.

As far as placement of the regulator, I suspect there is a guide or regulation, but it's probably just based on common sense. Because regulators have a vent, you want it away from ignition sources, air intakes, windows, etc. You'd want it above the highest expected snow-drift exposure line. Back in the day, they used to just run the output side directly into the foundation, so the regulators were fairly low on the house; near the floor line. But common sense (and possibly regulations) would want it mounted higher (perhaps 3 feet up the wall or more) and then run the output pipe back down towards the entry point.

Make sure that after it's installed, you or your install guy properly set the regulator pressure. Typically 11" WC while all gas appliances are running; not just some of them, but ALL of them. Yes - this means you'll have to turn on your furnace and force it to run, while running the gas stove, dryer, water heater, etc all at the same time. You have to set the pressure regulation at it's value while at max expected flow. In fact, it's proper to set the regulator by putting the WC device at the highest draw appliance (typically the furnace), and you measure the WC pressure supply at the furnace while all appliances are running. There should be a small taped port for this task, typically on the upstream supply side of the gas valve inside the furnace. This way you account for all pressure drop via the piping, and set it for the peak demand at the greatest consumer of fuel. That way you'll be assured that the regulator will never starve the house for gas at peak demand. The furnace OEM should have a statement inside somewhere on the rating plate as to the supply WC value requirement.

BTW - you don't need to go buy a WC tester; you can make one. That's what I did. Just go buy several feet of clear vinyl tubing, secure it to a board in a "U" shape, mark as zero point and then put inch marks both above and below that "zero" mark, and then fill with water so that it's "zero'd" out. Always hold it fully vertical and not a slope. If you understand what I'm talking about, then you've made your own manometer! google it. If not, ignore this and pay someone to do it!


https://www.propane101.com/regulatorinstallation.htm
 
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You might need to do a leak-check on the new gas line area that you installed or a leak check on your entire new and existing gas line. The reason I'm waffling on my answer is that some areas require it and some don't.
One municipality near me requires that the gas lines hold a 20 psi air pressure for 20 minutes with no drop in psi. This has to be verified by a city employee with a stop watch and a pressure gauge. Of course, the gas valves need to be shut in the off position to protect furnace and stove valves.
Another municipality right next to this one requires no leak-check whatsoever.
 
The pipe needs to be sized based on length and btu rating of the appliances at the end. At low pressure larger pipe is needed. There are two size tables, one for 10 psi and one for 11 inch wc. I doubt that a furnace can go very far on 1/2 iron pipe.
 
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Originally Posted by mk378
The pipe needs to be sized based on length and btu rating of the appliances at the end. At low pressure larger pipe is needed. There are two size tables, one for 10 psi and one for 11 inch wc. I doubt that a furnace can go very far on 1/2 iron pipe.


The new regulator will be around 25' from the furnace. I'm wondering if a 3/4 to 1" line will be better.

The new tank is 250' from the house and the guy recommended 3/4" line.
 
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