Motul Power 4100 or Total Quartz 7000?

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Originally Posted by LeoStrop

Thanks for taking your time to go trough this!

My car doesn't have a catalytic converter, it is originally like that.

I briefly looked into the diesel options, but all of them are conventional oils. I thought maybe a semi was better?

Depends on what you're going to do. In a case where you're driving a vehicle with moderate performance I'm not sure there's much to be gained. If it was turbocharged or perhaps a high RPM engine, maybe something "better" might be an advantage. For the most part if you are performing manufacturer recommended oil change intervals there really isn't going to be much benefit. My wife's car is a 2002 Honda Civic, and I give it the cheapest "conventional" motor oil of the weight specified in the owners manual. If the manufacturer specifies something better (like GM's dexos or various VW/BMW/MB standards) then of course the best thing to do is follow those recommendations. I know some people take their vehicles on race tracks or perhaps try to extend their oil change intervals where maybe a "synthetic" might make a difference.

In your case if there's no catalytic converter then even heavy duty engine oils without a current API gasoline rating (like SN) would probably work. Possibly even work better than the most exotic synthetic oils. The big worry using them is a high phosphorus content damaging catalytic converters, and if you don't have that there's no issue using them.

The difference between a "conventional", "synthetic", and "semi-synthetic" oil are pretty much blurred. Even basic oils these days contain a lot of (chemically processed) Group II base oils that are better than older Group I oils from years ago that were only a product of refining/distillation.
 
Originally Posted by y_p_w

Depends on what you're going to do. In a case where you're driving a vehicle with moderate performance I'm not sure there's much to be gained. If it was turbocharged or perhaps a high RPM engine, maybe something "better" might be an advantage. For the most part if you are performing manufacturer recommended oil change intervals there really isn't going to be much benefit. My wife's car is a 2002 Honda Civic, and I give it the cheapest "conventional" motor oil of the weight specified in the owners manual. If the manufacturer specifies something better (like GM's dexos or various VW/BMW/MB standards) then of course the best thing to do is follow those recommendations. I know some people take their vehicles on race tracks or perhaps try to extend their oil change intervals where maybe a "synthetic" might make a difference.


The whole point of me buying this car was to start a project. I plan on changing the fuel injection, suspension, wheels, tires, and finally instal a turbo, all on separated stages. Even if the car is all original now i still push it a little bit, and since i live next to the highway (fast b-roads) the car runs at 60-100mph 95% of the time. So if there is little to be gained using a "better" oil, i would use it.

My OCIs are generally very short, i go with my bike to work, so i end up changing it around 2,5K and 7-8 months. I will see how is the process of sending it in for an UOA around here and see how far can i take it. My fear is fuel dilution since it takes time to warm up and i don't trust that efi. Consumption is around 18mpg and that should be normal for that car and my driving style.

Originally Posted by y_p_w

In your case if there's no catalytic converter then even heavy duty engine oils without a current API gasoline rating (like SN) would probably work. Possibly even work better than the most exotic synthetic oils. The big worry using them is a high phosphorus content damaging catalytic converters, and if you don't have that there's no issue using them.

The difference between a "conventional", "synthetic", and "semi-synthetic" oil are pretty much blurred. Even basic oils these days contain a lot of (chemically processed) Group II base oils that are better than older Group I oils from years ago that were only a product of refining/distillation.


That is true. I was trying to stay away from Grp I, and thought that maybe using a semi was the way to go. But i liked the option of the Delvac Power, i will see if i can find it in 4L, and will try to learn more about the diesel specs.
 
Originally Posted by LeoStrop
The whole point of me buying this car was to start a project. I plan on changing the fuel injection, suspension, wheels, tires, and finally instal a turbo, all on separated stages. Even if the car is all original now i still push it a little bit, and since i live next to the highway (fast b-roads) the car runs at 60-100mph 95% of the time. So if there is little to be gained using a "better" oil, i would use it.

Depends on what you expect out of it. When I first started changing motor oil myself, the typical prices for "synthetic" oils were 4 times that of "conventional". Sometimes even more because conventional oil could be really cheap sometimes. I had an Acura (Honda) Integra GS-R where the manufacturer specified only 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on ambient temperatures. It had an 8000 RPM redline that I would hit on occasion. I thought that perhaps a synthetic oil would protect a bit better in those extreme conditions, or perhaps might help out if something happened such as sudden loss of coolant. It also made me feel as if I was doing something "better" for my car than just the bare minimum.

However, I know there are those who are under the impression that using a "synthetic" oil will result in less wear, better engine longevity, and better fuel economy. I used to be under that impression but have come to the conclusion that using appropriate oil change intervals with a manufacturer specified oil weight is what's going to result in long life. Sure "synthetic" oil can resist sludge formation, resists oxidation, and might provide some benefits in extreme operation, but I don't think a grocery getter is really going to benefit from going well beyond the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, there are are vehicles that have been used in commercial operation just using inexpensive "fleet" motor oils changed on a regular schedule where they have lasted hundreds of thousands of miles/kms. Change the oil before the additives are depleted and/or the VI improver has sheared to an unacceptable level, and the oil has done its job well. If I insist on 5000 mile oil change intervals where the manufacturer specifies a minimum API SJ 5W-20, it probably won't matter that I use Mobil 1 or if I use an inexpensive house-branded 5W-20 in terms of how long the engine lasts/runs well. But if the manufacturer specifies a 0W-20, then I probably would use Mobil 1.

Also - those diesel-engine rated motor oils (mostly 15W-40) are actually meant for extended oil change intervals - even back when they were Group I mineral oils. They actually had a pretty low "spread" and today they're likely to include a lot of Group II base oil with an inherently higher viscosity index.
 
Well said!

Maybe i am overthinking but i still have some time left to the next OC and the process of learning more about oils and trying to decide which way to go, has been a pleasing pastime to a car guy like myself.

Found two good options that are easily avaible and come in 4L:

https://www.luboil.pt/documentos/pdf/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_Portugal_Shell_Rimula_R4_X_15W-40_(CI-4_E7_DH-1)_(pt)_TDS.pdf

https://www.lubritec.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/FT-PT-Urania-3000-E-15W-40-211215.pdf

Same (good) price for both, the Petronas don't have an API rating.
 
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Originally Posted by LeoStrop
Originally Posted by Popsy
MB 228.3 should be good enough. But not gas rating on the Urania, true.


Ahh yeah, that is what i meant, no API gas rating.

The Rimula is looking good, the only thing that i don't like is that it says "Specifications, Approvals & Recommendations", which one are approvals vs recommendations??

https://aviooil.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/SHell-Rimula-R4-X-15W-40-TDS.pdf

https://shell-livedocs.com/data/published/pt-BR/56091631-4f38-4759-84f9-d6295c1c0a8b.pdf


I don't see the exact version in the API database. There are a few Rimula oil listed though.

And again, the API S* rating typically diverges from diesel requirements because of catalyst compatibility. I wouldn't worry about it for any car without a catalytic converter.
 
Rimula has been poured in
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Along with the "new" filter , MANN W7 Multi18, it is a bit taller and has an ADBV, it is supposed to fit a wide variety of vehicles. The ones that i used before were very simple, no valves, although i never heard any noise on cold starts, even after 7 days.

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But what a POS filter from AC Delco, after only 2000 miles and 6 months there was some wavy pleats and the media was hard and fragile, i could punch holes with my fingers.

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The Total was clear and clean, i think it did a good job.

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Doing an OC in this car is a 10 min job, don't need ramps, just slide under and to change the filter i steer all the way to the right and take it by hand.
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Thanks for the tip @y_p_w! And i found the Delvac Power in 4L literally 150ft from my house, but i think i will be staying the Shell for now.
 
I have posted a few of these infos in other threads, but i decided update this one.

So i am using the Rimula for a couple of months and it seems to be doing great, the mpg went up a little bit and i think the good italian tune up with no short trips is freeing up the engine over time.

Special thanks to @y_p_w for the HDEO tip!
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Originally Posted by LeoStrop

Valve cover gasket change coming soon.


I did it a few months back and it looks very good inside, so good that i started to think if the headers have been done, even if the car has very low milage and ethanol tend to keep the engine clean inside.

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Also the MANN W7 Multi18 was indeed a better filter compared to the more basic ones that i have been using.

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BITOG is doing good for my engine, thanks guys!
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