I did a search, and couldn't find anything. If you have pics, post em up. I have a permacool, and a motorguard to put in a dog house sized car, and need some suggestions.
Motorguard or frantz mounting pics
- Thread starter Shaman
- Start date
- Status
It's the same with any car or pickup. The hardest thing is to find a place to mount the filter. It's a piece of cake with the Japanese cars sold in the USA using a sandwich adapter. Mount the filter and run two hoses to the sandwich adapter. It's the same as adding a oil cooler with the sandwich adapter. Sometimes the nipple that the full flow filter screws on is too short. The universal 189 sandwich adapter has a little more reach so I like to use that for the Japanese engines. My small Kohler engines on the lawn tractors use the Perma Cool adapters. Most of the small engines with a full flow filter will take a 3/4"-16 thread full flow filter. On those engines I don't change the oil but I change the Motor Guard element once a year. My sister-in-law had no room in the 07 Corolla engine compartment for the filters for the tranny and engine. I put the filters between the front bumper and the radiator.
A laundry truck came into the place where I worked. It had the Motor Guard between the front seats. It would get your attention if you put your elbow on a hot Motor Guard.
A laundry truck came into the place where I worked. It had the Motor Guard between the front seats. It would get your attention if you put your elbow on a hot Motor Guard.
I think I have a place for it, but I don’t know if I can hard mount it. It will be going under the air filter housing. It’s the best place that I can find for it, but there is no real flat surface. I am also worried about the sandwich adapter as there is a turbo literally right above the oil filter. I may just run the sandwich adapter with a little hose looped, to see what happens. Would this be a problem? I may do some more figuring when I et under the hood again. I also need to make room for a injection pump. Hopefully the injection and the motorguard will keep everything cleaned up.
My Subaru Legacy only had enough room for one Hard mount. I hard mounted the oil filter. The fuel and Tranny filters I left in the box and just laid them in a low place where they were protected from moving parts and the exhaust. I don't change the tranny and fuel very often. The oil filter I change about every 4,000 miles. I changed the filter on the old Subaru every 12,000 miles. That was about once a year. That was pushing it a little too far. Because of not changing the filter often enough I had to change the oil about every 60,000 average in 240,000 - Except for oil leaks it was in very good condition when I gave it to a friend. He needed some transportation. He came out of a restaurant to find his fancy Chevy pickup stolen.
Ralph do you recommend higher or lower than the sandwich adapter for easier filter changes?
Next question. I have a sandwich adapter, but I don't have the motorguad ready to mount. Can I install the sandwich, and install the motorguard once the bracket comes in? Just put 5 inches of hose on and let in flow from the in to the out?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Yes. A 5" radius might be kinda tight. I'd just run it to where you're going to mount the MG (the length) and just coil it up out of the way (or whatever). You can then cut it when you mount your MG ..plug in your hose barbs ..etc..etc..
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
At 3 o'clock you see a poppet relief valve. The oil (this is the engine side - note O ring) takes a trip out the recessed "step" and slams into the high resistance TP roll. The poppet has a 2PSID breaking pressure and is an "escape hatch" that allows the normal oil flow to take the short route to the full flow through the "stepped wall". The oil through the TP filter takes the long route.
Now I know what you're thinking (did he shoot 6 shots ..or only 5?
)
Yes, most of your oil flow squeezes through that tiny port. In some high volume installation a VERY VERY VERY VERY small hole needs to be drilled (did I say VERY small?). Note the two plugs @ 6 and 12 o'clock. They are what is required when you don't drill a VERY small hole ..especially when you don't need one at all.
[/img]
Now I know what you're thinking (did he shoot 6 shots ..or only 5?
Yes, most of your oil flow squeezes through that tiny port. In some high volume installation a VERY VERY VERY VERY small hole needs to be drilled (did I say VERY small?). Note the two plugs @ 6 and 12 o'clock. They are what is required when you don't drill a VERY small hole ..especially when you don't need one at all.
Kinda worried about the noises that some have heard. I would like to see if it's gonna make the noise before I stick the filter in. I just want to play it safe.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Originally Posted By: Lazy JW
Thanks Gary,
Does this setup return the oil from the TP filter to then flow through the full-flow?
Joe
Yes. Flow goes like this:
Exits engine - diverges to bypass filter and through poppet valve -
Flow reunites on the other side of the poppet valve and return from bypass unit
Enters full flow and returns to engine via center threaded port.
The poppet valve is reactive. You'll maintain 2PSID across the Permacool sandwich.
The size of the port shakes many people up. Now it's true that some (very rare) may have to drill a VERY VERY VERY small hole to handle pump relief/cold start conditions (again, rare) ...but the engine is typically far more of a "blockage" than that port is.
I was skeptical too. That's why you see those two plugs @ 12&6 o'clock. I ended up with NO added hole.
Thanks Gary,
Does this setup return the oil from the TP filter to then flow through the full-flow?
Joe
Yes. Flow goes like this:
Exits engine - diverges to bypass filter and through poppet valve -
Flow reunites on the other side of the poppet valve and return from bypass unit
Enters full flow and returns to engine via center threaded port.
The poppet valve is reactive. You'll maintain 2PSID across the Permacool sandwich.
The size of the port shakes many people up. Now it's true that some (very rare) may have to drill a VERY VERY VERY small hole to handle pump relief/cold start conditions (again, rare) ...but the engine is typically far more of a "blockage" than that port is.
I was skeptical too. That's why you see those two plugs @ 12&6 o'clock. I ended up with NO added hole.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
It is very convenient for many that don't want to tap into the sender or returning to the valve cover or pan. You also no oil flow is truly bypassing the engine (not that I consider this much of a detractor, but some may see it as a co-benefit).
...and will get filtered if something happens to come out of the TP filter.
SORRY to be late getting in here - but here's a few pics of my Frantz install - oil bypass on one side, fuel filter on the other:
Closeup of the oil bypass, mounted to the '02 Dodge/Cummins battery hold-down bolt:
The bracket for the fuel filter, showing construction - mount had to be shifted off-center, to avoid other engine plumbing and wiring:
Here it is installed on the battery bolt:
And finally, all assembled - works GREAT, and has, for several years now.
Closeup of the oil bypass, mounted to the '02 Dodge/Cummins battery hold-down bolt:
The bracket for the fuel filter, showing construction - mount had to be shifted off-center, to avoid other engine plumbing and wiring:
Here it is installed on the battery bolt:
And finally, all assembled - works GREAT, and has, for several years now.
- Status
Similar threads
