Motorcraft synth blend vs Full synth

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I'm goming up on my first oil change after my 1k break-in in my Gen 3 Coyote 5.0. I'm planing to roll with a MC filter, 500 or 820, and MC oil. Never had an issue with MC so I'm planning to stay with it.

Is there any reason, price aside, to pick Synth-blend over full synth?
 
The FL-820S isn't specified for the 3rd Gen Coyote, so I'd stick with the FL-500S. The filter bypass valve settings may be different between those two oil filters.

I'd wait longer than 1K miles to go full synthetic ... I usually go full synthetic after 3k~4K miles on the engine. You going to bump it up to 5w30 vs 5W-20?
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
The FL-820S isn't specified for the 3rd Gen Coyote, so I'd stick with the FL-500S. The filter bypass valve settings may be different between those two oil filters.

I'd wait longer than 1K miles to go full synthetic ... I usually go full synthetic after 3k~4K miles on the engine. You going to bump it up to 5w30 vs 5W-20?


According to Ford Performance the 802 is a replacement for the 500. Looking at the factory filter it may come with a 820 filter, its shorter than the 500. I am planning to move to 5w30. I enjoy a bit of spirited driving, but I rarely hit the track, so I figure moving to 30 would be a safe move.
 
As a suggestion you may consider your dealers free oil change at 1k, then at 5k switch to the full synthetic. I read on the forums a lot of 3rd gen Coyote owners using T6 5w40 and like it. T6 is also available in a 2.5 gallon jug, perfect for your ten quart oil change. Using Motorcraft full synthetic 5w30 vs synblend 5w20 is a smart choice but I personally think there are better 5w30 oils available for the price of Motorcraft. Also, look in to a Ronin drain plug, you're going to hate that plastic plug.
 
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
As a suggestion you may consider your dealers free oil change at 1k, then at 5k switch to the full synthetic. I read on the forums a lot of 3rd gen Coyote owners using T6 5w40 and like it. T6 is also available in a 2.5 gallon jug, perfect for your ten quart oil change. Using Motorcraft full synthetic 5w30 vs synblend 5w20 is a smart choice but I personally think there are better 5w30 oils available for the price of Motorcraft. Also, look in to a Ronin drain plug, you're going to hate that plastic plug.


Thanks I'll give them a look. My dealer didnt mention anything about a free oil change. Maybe I'll ask.
 
I would wait a little longer. Motorcraft Syn blend is not available all the time it seems like. Any major Full synthetic will serve you well. Motorcraft price in my mind is also an issue I can get lots of full synthetic oils as cheap or cheaper which seem to me to be much more available. Plus I haven't seen that many Motorcraft UOA that really impressed me all that much.
 
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SWEET ride!
thumbsup2.gif
19.gif


Did you buy it locally, or did you trek down to Koons Ford for any discounts (IF there even is such a thing as not paying at least list on THAT car)?
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After break-in, I would use nothing but a FULL synthetic in that engine!
wink.gif

(Regardless of/despite so many on here touting the current blends to no end.)
 
Whatever you do don't use the tear prone FL820S. The Ford Racing 820 is a different filter.
 
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
SWEET ride!
thumbsup2.gif
19.gif


Did you buy it locally, or did you trek down to Koons Ford for any discounts (IF there even is such a thing as not paying at least list on THAT car)?
21.gif


After break-in, I would use nothing but a FULL synthetic in that engine!
wink.gif

(Regardless of/despite so many on here touting the current blends to no end.)

Thanks. Picked it up at Sherridan in DE the day before Easter. Managed to get 1k under MSRP on it, and MUCH better than I expected on my trade.

Originally Posted by hatt
Whatever you do don't use the tear prone FL820S. The Ford Racing 820 is a different filter.

I hadnt not heard of the tearing on the 820S, Is it worth the price difference to move to the regualr 820? I'm fine paying more if its acutally better at filtering than the 500.
 
The regular FL-820s is the one that tears. I don't know much about the Racing filter. It looks like better construction than the standard filter. The 500s is a good filter. I like the Wix version though for the same price.
 
Originally Posted by hatt
The regular FL-820s is the one that tears. I don't know much about the Racing filter. It looks like better construction than the standard filter. The 500s is a good filter. I like the Wix version though for the same price.

Yeah I got them mixed up in my typing, sorry. I'm aware that 820S = normal, 820 = Ford Racing/Performance. Makes me wonder why the 500 was made
 
since there are no laws governing how much synthetic there is in a blend + the small price increase for a synthetic why bother.
 
1K is too soon for ful synthetic in this application. Wait another 2K at least for full syn. Let that engine break-in more first.

I waited 3K before removing the factory fill and moving to synthetic.
 
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Originally Posted by PhillyBULLITT
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
The FL-820S isn't specified for the 3rd Gen Coyote, so I'd stick with the FL-500S. The filter bypass valve settings may be different between those two oil filters.

I'd wait longer than 1K miles to go full synthetic ... I usually go full synthetic after 3k~4K miles on the engine. You going to bump it up to 5w30 vs 5W-20?


According to Ford Performance the 820 is a replacement for the 500. Looking at the factory filter it may come with a 820 filter, its shorter than the 500. I am planning to move to 5w30. I enjoy a bit of spirited driving, but I rarely hit the track, so I figure moving to 30 would be a safe move.


Yes, the Ford Racing Performance 820 racing filter is, but the regular FL-820S is not specified for that car. The 820 racing filter probably has the higher bypass valve so it's OK for the 2nd and 3rd Gen Coyote. The factory installed oil filter isn't a Motorcraft or Ford Racing Performance filter, some say it's most likely made by Wix.
 
Originally Posted by benjy
since there are no laws governing how much synthetic there is in a blend + the small price increase for a synthetic why bother.



If it meets SN/SN+ it's roughly 50% group 3-- unless it makes use of Exxon Mobil base stocks (5-20/5-30 that is). It's semi-syn because they only sell two grades of oil. Valvoline Conventional and Pennzoil Conventional are conventional because they have more expensive oils which they want to sell you. Three price points=conventional, semi-syn, syn. Two price poiints=semi-syn, syn. It's just marketing.
 
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