Motor Guard or Frantz Bypass Filter And a Question

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I've just been sucked into the bypass craze. I'm wondering which bypass Filter you guys reccomend, Motor Guard or Frantz

Also I have a 1945 Ford 9N Tractor that I recentally restored. The engine has a filter but it is a canister type, not a full flow, that's hooked up like a bypass? I don't know if I should add a bypass or not.

The tractors crankcase is vented to the atmosphere via the oil filler, should I be concerned with this or not worry about particale entrance.
 
I am not familar with your ford's filter, but if it's a bypass filter you could simply replace it with a Frantz or Motorguard. If it is a full flow filter you would need to add the bypass filter with either a sandwich plate setup or get your feed & return from somewhere else.

I have used both the Frantz & Motorguard and my recommendation would be for the Motorguard, as they are easier to service. The Frantz filter works equally well and has the advantage of looking better (stainless or polished stainless). I have (2) Motorguards on my Kubota tractor and I recently hit the 200hr mark on the oil with excellent UOA results (actually around 190h).
 
The Filter gets it's feed from a junction box that feeds the oil gauge and then feeds the oil filter, which is a canister type that takes A 1010 Napa Gold Filter. The return line then leads to the engine governor from there the oil enters the crankcase.
 
Is this what you have??

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They're about the same for Chevy, Ford, and others. I think you can adapt them to tp ..or it looks like you should be able to. But if you're going to buy a Motor Guard or Frantz ..you would just hook it up in line like yours is now. That is, your filter is a bypass filter. It bypasses the engine lube system. The media probably isn't as good as tp.
 
I have all three ..motorguard , frantz and Gulf coast ..all do a great job ...wwwbypassfilter.com site sponser ralph wood sells the motorgaurd it is the cleanest of the 3 to change the filter on .
 
I don't know if you could call it a craze but after 40 years we are right back where we started. the Frantz and Motor Guard submicronic filters are the best in the world. It's just a matter of which design you like the best.
When I was about 13 years old Frantz came out with a kit to convert the old cannister filters to use superopr filtering TP. You could get decent elements for the filters in 1953 but TP was about 10 times better at cleaning oil. I have an old Frantz three stacker that is similar except it takes three kits instead of one. By the time I found out about the Franz and Motor Guard in the early 60s it wa getting hard to find decent elements for the old housings. After that the Frantz and Motor Guard could filter about 100 times better than the stock filters. The TP filters are very impressive on the old engines. The oil got contaminated and black from poor carburatiion and turned clear after a short time. In a modern engine the oil can be loaded with contamination and still look pretty good becaise of lack of soot.
Pleated paper is almost useless as an oil filter but isn't a threat to the oil change business and people feel good because they changed the filter. There have been lengthy discussions about which full flow filter is best but none of them clean oil. Frantz replaced the kit for the old cannister filters with their own cannister. They abandoned that probably because it was messy to change. I see an Australian company has copied it and the three stacker. They are running behind about 40 years.
I prefer the design of the Motor Guard but the cleaning ability of the filters depends on the quality of your TP.
I was in the hospital a couple of weeks. When I got home I was still feeling pretty puny. I had a stack of emails that I am still trying to catch up on. I had more orders that are going to take a little more time to fill. I should be caught up on the orders by next Monday.

Ralph
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You could mount a stand alone full flow style filter in-line with the MC or Frantz. It might make the element last a little longer.
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It adds some expense and takes up some more room. They way they're typically routed ..the full flow filter lasts much longer.
 
It's good to be back. I feel pretty good. The problem is after a few hours of doing things I play out but each day I can work a little longer at getting things done. Thanks for all the kind words.
It wouldn't make any sense to install a Frantz or Motor Guard downstream of a filter that doesn't do anything but strain out the particles large enough to damage the engine. The Motor Guard and Frantz will remove all of it. The large engine damaging abrasives and the small engine wearing abrasives. Either put the stock housing on the shelf or convert it to take TP. I can convert them but explaining how to do it would be difficult. It is a lot better to just install a better filter and be done with it.
One big advantage to installing a TP filter is you know what condition the engine is in by looking at the contamination on top of the element. The Motor Guard MG-30 is the most positive and easy to service of the TP filters. For fuel that is very important. For lube oil it doesn't matter if it takes a couple of passes to clean the oil. The Motor Guard is the easiest to service. I always try to mount the filter away from the vibration of the engine and run rubber lines to it.
The strong point of the Ford filter is it is very strong. The weak point is it doesn't clean oil.

Ralph
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Thabks ralph for all the info and a great site. I think what I'll end up doing is mounting either a motor guard or frants downstream from the original filter I've got plunty of room,only beacause i'd hate to throw away an old part.

Now the only hard part is making the decision which filter to go with. I like the frantz because of the shine, so I don't know which one to get.
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Your engine doesn't care which filter you use for the lube oil. The Frantz and Motor Guard will both turn the oil clear in a short time.
I have a Motor Guard on the fuel of my 51 Farmall Model H with a Chevy 4 cylinder engine. It is probably over kill for a one barrel carb. When I signed up as a Motor Guard dealer in 1966 the Frantz was too restrictive for fuel; the Motor Guard was even worse. Frantz came out with a fuel filter that had a screen in the top of the cannister area of the paper. They also had a coating inside. It wasn't intentional but when Motor Guard came out with the M-30 and M-60 they opened them up to get more flow of compressed air. This solved the restriction of the filter for fluid. The Motor Guard has to be a one pass filter for what they are used for. The Motor Guard is epoxy coated inside and out. It is die cast aluminum.
My Farmall has an electric fuel pump feeding a jeep carborator. The Motor Guard or Frantz should gravity OK. It doesn't hurt to use both filters in parallel. I would either put the Frantz upstream of the Ford filter or remove the Ford element.

Ralph
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