I probably saw a picture of one. Like a round heating pad that slid down over the Frantz. Frantz had a lot of things. Additives Frantz brand motor oil. The AeroFrantz Tall housings that took 2 3 and 4 Frantz canisters. They were all over the Gulf of America on heavy duty marine diesel engines. There was a full time Frantz dealer in Gulfport Mississippi. When Frantz went out of production he went to paper towel filters and the little Gulf Coast Junior. Only the little Frantz came back. Its a tough business.
Motor Guard filters
- Thread starter mtoil
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Probably the same except for the shape. When they were available multi grade oil would void the warranty on a diesel engine. They were no good in a gasoline engine. I used Standard Delo 100 30W. My Oldsmobile V6 diesel owners manual said I could use multi grade in an emergency until I could get 30 weight.
This morning I went about 4 miles into town and back at about 50 degrees F. When I got back the Jackmaster Classic was just starting to warm up with a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter and a 1/16 inch orifice in the inlet. Thats about right. The Jackmaster Classic would be hot at 20 miles. You people in cold weather might need a little larger orifice. With a needle valve you might need to open it a little more. The slower the oil flow the better the cleaning. We drilled out the orifice with the Frantz and the Frantz 2 port sandwich and ATF adapter. Not sure that was a good idea looking back.
When it was -38c I had to make it to the airport, 75 mile highway drive, when I got it parked the Frantz can was barely over room temperature, when its that cold you might as well use a shut off valve, no meaningfull bypass filtering is happening in severe cold weather.
Great Value 1000 is a Walmart product. Scott 1000 is a little larger.
It was 84 degrees F when I left town today. The Jackmaster filter burned my hand when I drove 20 miles home. In the winter It sometimes is in the teens when I leave for work. At about 25 miles the filter is just starting to warm up. Its the same with the 1/16 inch orifice with Motor Guard or Frantz. The filters heat up going home.
I hear you. I dont drain oil and I normally change the toilet paper and add a quart of new oil every 6.000 miles but I am in the Dallas Texas area driving mostly highway. Im retired now. I will make adjustments. I have been wasting a lot of oil jacking with these filters.
If you really want to waste a lot of oil, there is a drain plug in the oil pan.
Thats true. In 60 years I have removed the drain plug a dozen times. A couple times because of a leaky head gasket. I was getting Motor Guards from a direct distributor in San Jose California. He would say look at this. He had the drain plug welded on to demonstrate he didnt drain oil. That would be a bummer. Crawl under a car to drain the oil and the plug is welded. He only drove 100.000 miles and bought a new Pontiac. He removed the Motor Guard. Im sure he didnt cut off the weld. Told my new wife Im putting a toilet paper filter on her 06 Pontiac Torrent. She said toilet paper stay away from my Honda Accord. You can mess up the old Pontiac. Told my second wife im putting a Motor Guard toilet paper filter on your VW and you wont need to change the oil again. She said cool. The VW mechanics told her since the beetle had no oil filter she should come in for an oil change every 1500 miles.If you really want to waste a lot of oil, there is a drain plug in the oil pan.
A couple years ago I saw an auction for a Frantz kit with spare element and kept the picture of it, this element is in km's for Canadian market, I think this kit was from the mid to late 1980's.
Normal Operation: Change element at first 1500 km, successive element changes at 3000 km or every 60 days.
Very Dirty Engines: Change at 800 km and 1500 km thereafter.
Cold Weather Operation: Change the element frequently for best results (every 1500 km or once a month).
Equipment, Stationary Engine: Convert hours to kilometers to determine when to change the element (one hour equals 50 kilometers).
I worked in a full service Standard station in the early 60s. Many times you could put a car on the rack and remove the drain plug. Sometimes nothing would come out. Some times a little would come out. The manager would say put some kerosene in and let it idle. Put a Frantz on that car and you are in trouble. You might have told him to change the Frantz every 2.000 miles. The Frantz is full of sludge in less than 50 miles.Buy a used car and there was a good chance you had to remove the valve covers and wash the sludge into the oil pan then remove the pan and clean it.
I've got a similar story with a 2000 Ford Excursion I bought. Engine was loaded with sludge, so I just installed a MotorGuard M100, changed the full flow and added 2 quarts. I never dumped the oil, just ran it.
Every 300-500 miles the filter was plugged, kept changing it and adding a quart. After 10,000 miles engine was clean and filters were making it to 3000 miles. From then on changed filter every 3000 miles. 31,000 miles with no oil changes and oil continued to pass. I still have the truck but is only used as a spare vehicle if needed.
I was working in a full service Standard station in 1964. We were selling tires batteries and tires and oil changes. We checked everything. Including dip sticks. Told this guy I see you just changed your oil. He pointed to his Frantz and said use one of these and Delo. Your engine wont wear out and you won't need to change your oil. The manager said he is a Standard Oil engineer. I went and found a Frantz dealer. I had a nearly new Rambler American flat head 6 with a factory installed spin on bypass filter. The oil was always black and dirty. The Frantz turned the oil like new. I was already using Delo 30W. About 55 cents a quart in the station. 29 cents in the discount stores. I liked the Motor Guard when I found out about it. They came out in 1961.I've got a similar story with a 2000 Ford Excursion I bought. Engine was loaded with sludge, so I just installed a MotorGuard M100, changed the full flow and added 2 quarts. I never dumped the oil, just ran it.
The Australian Jackmaster Classic has a valve in the lid. With the filter still hot I open the valve and the oil drains. I pull out the tp check the imprint on the bottom. Sometimes I put a new tp in and add a new quart of oil. Too much time on my hands since I retired.If you really want to waste a lot of oil, there is a drain plug in the oil pan.
The Motor Guard M 30 worked great with the Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter with no orifice in the picture. I put a 1/16 inch orifice in the inlet of the Jackmaster. I drove about 50 miles. It didnt filter any oil. Removed the orifice and put a roll of Great Value 1000 in it. Drove about 6 miles. The paper compressed down about 1/2 inch. The core was about 1/8 inch above the tp. Which means its working. Looks like if the tp isnt down against the washer good the 1/16 inch orifice cant supply enough oil to over come the leak. Without the orifice you get a blast of oil that compresses the tp down against the washer. Might work with the orifice at the outlet but I will use no orifice with the two port sandwiches like we did with the Frantzs.
I see what happened today with the Australian Jackmaster Classic. I put a orifice at the inlet. With the 2 port sandwich adapter there is pressure in both hoses. A little more on the inlet. When I put a 1/16 inch orifice at the inlet the pressure in the outlet came in and pushed the tp up off the core seal. I didnt use a orifice in the Motor Guard inlet. Might be why we didnt use a orifice in the Frantz when we used a Frantz 2 port sandwich adapter.
If you look at the Frantz Oil Refiner, the restrictor is machined into the inlet, not a removable orifice, Ed reccomends and sells two port Perma Cool sandwich adapters for them, I think your washer has too much surface area.
