Motocraft semi-synthetic (goodness in a bottle!)

[poikaa]

Changed alot of oil and filters in my time, one is rather interesting. My friend had bought a 2009 Subaru Forester to use with his line of work, not a high paying job but enough! He uses his Subaru to deliver newspapers on a rural route. Length is about 30 miles but all stop and go in all weather 362 days a year. He insists on using Motocraft semi-synthetic 5W-20 or 10W-30 every 3000 miles, with filter change. OEM filter is used and I do the work. I can attest that the little Subaru is rather subject to heavy duty driving much like a taxi cab!
Drained oil is always jet black but the filler cap is clean and the egine runs like a clock with a bit of noise when started below 10 degrees F. So I think it is a good oil for these conditions and protects the engine.
He goes through a new car every three to five years and follows the same oil change interval. On a Dodge Stratus he had a oil pan gasket leak at 50k miles and the engine was looking like new with zero sludge and a small amount of debris in the bottom of the pan.

poikaa

 

[Cubey]

I used Motorcrafts synth blend in the Fords I had. One with about 120k miles, the other with over 150k.

I use Maxlife in my 78 Dodge's 360 now which is also a synth blend.

What oil filters do you run?

 

[Zaedock]

Motorcraft SB is a good oil. IMO he would have had the same results from any SM/SN rated oil at 3,000 miles though.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Motorcraft SB is a good oil. IMO he would have had the same results from any SM/SN rated oil at 3,000 miles though.


You're probably right, but his 3K miles has many more hours of operation than most of our 3K miles. This is one of the few examples where a 3K mile OCI really makes sense, since it is really a Severe Service application.

 

[poikaa]

I did like the Super Tech from Walmart, now I use NAPA gold series. My friend with the Subaru wants only the original Subaru OEM filter with a new gasket every change.

poikaa

 

[poikaa]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Motorcraft SB is a good oil. IMO he would have had the same results from any SM/SN rated oil at 3,000 miles though.


I could not talk him into extending the change interval but with the stop and go driving in all sorts of conditions, 3k is fine, anyway he is paying for this!
For my self 5k is fine but my Volvo turbo I'll go for 7500 miles with Synthetic.

poikaa

 

[Hyde244]

Can never go wrong with Motorcraft.

 

[Merkava_4]

Every 3000 miles? Your friend is a very smart cookie.

The name of the game is not how long you can make the oil last; it's how clean you can keep the engine.

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Every 3000 miles? Your friend is a very smart cookie.

The name of the game is not how long you can make the oil last. . . it's how clean you can keep the engine.


Why not get both at the same time? I do.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

The name of the game is not how long you can make the oil last; it's how clean you can keep the engine.


That, my friend, should be the mantra of this forum.

...and I'm unanimous in that thought.

 

[mer]

Motorcraft is good oil...made by Conoco-Phillips !!!

 

[fdcg27]

Subabru does not recommend a 5W-20 for that engine, so I find your friend's insistance upon using OEM filters a little amusing.
Why be picky about the oil filter when you ignore the manufacturer's oil grade recommendations?
Whether the car is run in stop and go conditions is probably not relavent, since the oil will reach operating temperature and stay there given the way the car is used.
Stop and go is not the same as on and off short tripping.
Of course the filler cap is clean since the filler cap is far removed from the engine in this application.
I'd go at least 5K on a drain in this type of use.
To those who write that the goal should be a clean engine rather than extended drains, the ultimate destination of any daily driver is the yard and they won't give you any more money for a notable lack of varnish nor will a little suntan in the upper head cause any problems.
It isn't engine failure that usually brings cars to their demise.

 

[Hyde244]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
To those who write that the goal should be a clean engine rather than extended drains, the ultimate destination of any daily driver is the yard and they won't give you any more money for a notable lack of varnish nor will a little suntan in the upper head cause any problems. It isn't engine failure that usually brings cars to their demise.
Yes, it is usually rust or some other mechanical problem. However, wouldn't you want to be sure it isn't the engine?

 

[fdcg27]

Unless oil changes are completely ignored and oil level is never checked and corrected, oil won't be the cause of demise of any engine either.

 

[threeputtpar]

Yes, Motorcraft Syn Blend is very good oil. I assume that the switch between 5W-20 and 10W-30 is for blizzard and mosquito seasons.

He can probably just stick with 5W-20 year round in the UP. That shouldn't be a problem. The car will probably rust out before the 3-5 years is up with all the winter weather and salt used.

My wife went to school at NMU, and she's part Finnish. Her parents are both from Houghton and went to school at NMU and MTU. Love the UP.

 

[CATERHAM]

Yes Motorcraft 5W-20 is good oil, but any API certified oil will perform equally as well over a short 3K mile OCI.

 

[jrustles]

Originally Posted By: Hyde244
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
To those who write that the goal should be a clean engine rather than extended drains, the ultimate destination of any daily driver is the yard and they won't give you any more money for a notable lack of varnish nor will a little suntan in the upper head cause any problems. It isn't engine failure that usually brings cars to their demise.
Yes, it is usually rust or some other mechanical problem. However, wouldn't you want to be sure it isn't the engine?


I know I would. Rust up to a certain level is simply cosmetic and should not increase the operating costs of the vehicle, like say stuck piston rings, blowby, low compression and oil consumption would. Wouldn't it be nice to know that your engine is still tight, at top efficiency and holds it's oil the day you drive the ol' rustbucket into the yard?