Most expensive rust available for sale.

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SMA says Fluid Film works the best, but you have to apply it every Summer.
I dont know if its the best but anything is the best vs nothing.
its also fairly neutral and doesnt react to most materials used in an automobile.

If you are having it done (and its a super messy crap job to do)
the place doing it is more important than the product..
be it Krown, FF, rustcheck etc.

Of course that doesnt include terrible rustproofing such as ziebart asphalt? based that is worse than nothing.

We have a really good Krown place that isnt quite local. I drive the hour.
The krown does seem to react to materials such as hood seal on the 2020 ram
and the washer fluid hose on the hyundai
need to take a rag and wipe those down.
 
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Wonder which would be cheaper in reality, road salt or not having you vehicle destroyed in 10 years?

@Fordiesel69, should we have to pay more for better rustproofing when we don't need it? Bet the car companies really aren't bothered about vehicles rusting out.
Even if it did save money ending salt spray, people would be up in arms. Safety and convenience of salt is too much a consideration to get rid of for most people. Undercoating for the long-termers is the only solution for them.
 
Brand aside- I make the effort to oil my vehicles inside panels and under- amazing how it preserves the metal. You don't need to apply every year either- maybe the wheel well areas because of heavy washout. My old 1990 4runner is in very good condition and bolts come apart with no issue. With the price of new vehicles- why not, why wouldn't light/medium rusted vehicles benefit.
 
A good portion of vehicles are sold to states where it either doesn't snow or salt is not used on the roads. Then another portion of vehicles have a useful life less than the amount of time it would take to rot out. If you treated 100% of vehicles at the factory with better rust protection, then alot of cars are overbuilt for the application.
Remember the days when a car had multiple versions of emissions? Federal. California. High altitude. It wasn't that long ago, my 1998 Nissan was purchased in NY, so Calif. emissions. This comes back to bite the owner say when it's 2016 and can't pass emissions.

imho, make the most restrictive application for all, or provide the best rust protection for all.

People today constantly interject the "I got mine and you got yours" mentality to virtually everything.

Even though my insurance premium is paying towards someone else's hip replacement, maybe I'll need that someday too.
 
They use a calcium chloride brine around here in Illinois. Salt if there is a heavy heavy snow. Not near the salt they use to use.

My Accent came with the floor pan sprayed in hard undercoat and then painted body color. It's lasted 15 years. it's all the seam sealers that failed on it, And a steel wheel....
 
They use a calcium chloride brine around here in Illinois. Salt if there is a heavy heavy snow. Not near the salt they use to use.

My Accent came with the floor pan sprayed in hard undercoat and then painted body color. It's lasted 15 years. it's all the seam sealers that failed on it, And a steel wheel....
it's needed when the temps drop below 15F, since salt will become ineffective. But I've always used it at home as I was told it's not as harsh on sidewalks. Interestingly I've bought it when we've had an on/off BJ's membership for a good price. Never seen CaCl2 at Costco. Has to be purchased during off-peak. When there is a weather event coming, it's gone at all retail sources, and gouging begins prior.
 
it's needed when the temps drop below 15F, since salt will become ineffective. But I've always used it at home as I was told it's not as harsh on sidewalks. Interestingly I've bought it when we've had an on/off BJ's membership for a good price. Never seen CaCl2 at Costco. Has to be purchased during off-peak. When there is a weather event coming, it's gone at all retail sources, and gouging begins prior.
It's a plant food too!
 
That 2016 Ram 1500 looks ugly, but that frame and chassis rust doesn't scare me at all. That could be preserved with woolwax, FF, etc. I'd be more concerned with above the rear wheel arches, the cab corners, inside the front fenders, etc. I'd bet the parking brakes are seized up on that truck. That too can be brought back to life with some penetrating oil, never seize and some time and effort. The Ram dealer fix for that is about $1500 these days w/ all new dust shields and all the hardware.

~$23K for that 9yr/old Ram and it doesn't even have a spare tire and the spare tire winch is probably junk. Aftermarket exhaust on it too from the looks.

Being a tradesmen, it also may not have the ZF8spd. If it didn't have the dial shifter, it doesn't have the 8spd. No 8spd would be a no-go for me unless the deal was right.
 
My Accent the rear bearing went bad. Simple fix they say, 4 bolts then remove. But the bearing/backplate and ebrake cables were all one rusted mass. Probably could have got the bearing out with heat. But the backplates were rusted to flimsiness and the ebrake cables were hopelessly rusted into the backplate. New cables were all plastic and backplates were hard to find. Both had to come from Korea on a slow boat.
 
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People simply don’t care or are stubborn and believe rustproofing is snake oil and that washing regularly during winter will prevent rust.

There are many threads on BITOG alone of people questioning the validity of rustproofing. New ones always seem to pop up at the end of the summer.

Always the same story/arguments, like “why spend money every year when washing will be enough?”
Or, “manufacturers already rustproofed the car from the factory, no need for anything else”
 
People simply don’t care or are stubborn and believe rustproofing is snake oil and that washing regularly during winter will prevent rust.

There are many threads on BITOG alone of people questioning the validity of rustproofing. New ones always seem to pop up at the end of the summer.

Always the same story/arguments, like “why spend money every year when washing will be enough?”
Or, “manufacturers already rustproofed the car from the factory, no need for anything else”
The proof is in the perforation or lack thereof.
 
A more valid question might be why is there not something that can be used on roads that doesn't do this to vehicles? We get to pay for and deal with the GM frame wax in Arizona because of the salt on the roads in Pa. Not fair. I lived in Pa for 48 years so know what you're dealing with.

There has to be something else.
Salt must destroy billions of dollars worth of otherwise useful vehicles every year. Now I've lived in Florida all of my life so I have no experience with winter roads up north but why not require studded tires, use sand and more plows? How did people drive back in the day before they started using salt?
 
Salt must destroy billions of dollars worth of otherwise useful vehicles every year. Now I've lived in Florida all of my life so I have no experience with winter roads up north but why not require studded tires, use sand and more plows? How did people drive back in the day before they started using salt?
I can tell you the salt and pre-treatment sprayed on the roads is not good for the environment either, but that is all conveniently ignored.
 
I can tell you the salt and pre-treatment sprayed on the roads is not good for the environment either, but that is all conveniently ignored.

It does seem to be ignored. The runoff has got to effect ground water and bodies of any water nearby. The amounts they throw on the roads where I live, you'd think it would effect adjacent vegetation, but it still grows with no ill effect (seemingly). The majority of the salt, dirt mix they use in my area immediately gets shoved to the sides by the next plow that comes by. I live on a rural-ish, busy, two lane State maintained road. The plows easily come 5x per hour during active snow.

Then you hit that area at the end of your driveway with your nice shiny new stamped steel, powder coated snowblower and it starts rusting immediately if you don't stay on top of it.
 
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