Mopar or Fram XG?

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Great pictures above of the '17 Hemi-engined Ram 1500.
It does look like there is 0.7" extra length over the XG10060, so you can probably get an XG10575 in there for lots of extra dirt-holding capacity and longevity. Since Fram says you can go 20k miles on their filters, you can CERTAINLY reach that 20k with an oversize (extra long) oil filter.
 
This is my second change, I had no issue getting the filter off as I drove it up on ramps. Lay on my left side and reach up with my right arm.


I found out that a big ziplock bag (2’) over the filter before you loosen it will catch all of the oil.

I use a band wrench. Thanks for the input on the filters.

My 17 is a 6 speed auto, but that 8 speed is a sweet trans too.
 
Originally Posted By: WillB
This is my second change, I had no issue getting the filter off as I drove it up on ramps. Lay on my left side and reach up with my right arm.


I found out that a big ziplock bag (2’) over the filter before you loosen it will catch all of the oil.

I use a band wrench. Thanks for the input on the filters.

My 17 is a 6 speed auto, but that 8 speed is a sweet trans too.

Not sure why I never thought of the ziploc trick!

Going to use your idea this weekend thank you!!
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
So, by filtering well, you mean low insolubles, and that the inside (dirty) side of the filter is waaaay nastier than what's inside of the engine? Well, I hate to break it to you, but a NAPA Platinum 41516 turned in the lowest insolubles on my car in over 100k, and it was on the longest OCI ever on this vehicle as well (17.2k). And under the valvecover is still spotless... So, I guess I don't know what to say to argue your opinion.


Need something better than a UOA 'insolubles' number ... really need an ISO 4406 Code particle count test.
 
No brainer, go for the XG, the Mopar filters are made by Tearolator, definitely don't want those on your engine! Fram won't void your warranty providing the correct filter is used.
 
Originally Posted By: copcarguy
Not sure why I never thought of the ziploc trick!

Going to use your idea this weekend thank you!!


You can also use some heavy gauge aluminum foil and just make a shield that directs the oil into a drain pan.
 
Originally Posted By: jongies3
No brainer, go for the XG, the Mopar filters are made by Tearolator, definitely don't want those on your engine! Fram won't void your warranty providing the correct filter is used.


And using the Mopar filter would void his warranty because of a filter failure? Fram's closet is not without skeletons either. Every manufacturing process has failures, otherwise Mikel Harry would not be a household name in engineering and statistical circles. It just happens that he is comparing two completely different classes of filters in this case: a cellulose OEM filter made for max savings; and a synthetic, wire backed filter made to a higher expectation (and price bracket).
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Need something better than a UOA 'insolubles' number ... really need an ISO 4406 Code particle count test.


You clipped the rest of my quote out. I didn't say the Platinum was better than an FU, and I did acknowledge its shortcomings (especially price). But I haven't done any particle count comparisons between FU and Platinum, and I haven't seen any data on the board either comparing the two. So at this point it's a moot argument. I actually also recommended the FU to the OP and also use them myself...

My main point was, Beta ratios and overall filter performance in things like turbines and critical hydraulic components are very valid and will get no argument from me. For car engines however, I haven't seen any compelling test data or fantastic internet reports of failed engines from using a lower Beta ratio filter. On the contrary, the 99% (non-BITOGgers) buy the cheapest possible oil and filter or whatever Jiffy Lube supplies, and there is likely no statistical difference in total lifetime mileage traveled between a BITOG engine and the unwashed masses. Where engines have failed, it's always because of a mechanical breakage, abuse, or other failure, not because the filter let another thousand 30u particles through. I still think OP is better off using XG over Mopar strictly from a durability and filter media material standpoint.
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Peace
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Need something better than a UOA 'insolubles' number ... really need an ISO 4406 Code particle count test.

You clipped the rest of my quote out. I didn't say the Platinum was better than an FU, and I did acknowledge its shortcomings (especially price). But I haven't done any particle count comparisons between FU and Platinum, and I haven't seen any data on the board either comparing the two. So at this point it's a moot argument. I actually also recommended the FU to the OP and also use them myself...

My main point was, Beta ratios and overall filter performance in things like turbines and critical hydraulic components are very valid and will get no argument from me. For car engines however, I haven't seen any compelling test data or fantastic internet reports of failed engines from using a lower Beta ratio filter. On the contrary, the 99% (non-BITOGgers) buy the cheapest possible oil and filter or whatever Jiffy Lube supplies, and there is likely no statistical difference in total lifetime mileage traveled between a BITOG engine and the unwashed masses. Where engines have failed, it's always because of a mechanical breakage, abuse, or other failure, not because the filter let another thousand 30u particles through. I still think OP is better off using XG over Mopar strictly from a durability and filter media material standpoint.
smile.gif
Peace


My response wasn't about which filter is 'better' ... but rather that people look at the 'insolubles' number on a UOA and think that's telling them how good the filter was working. My comment was saying you really need an ISO 4406 particle count test to see a more clear story on filtering efficiency performance, especially when comparing different filters on the same engine in similar use conditions.

But yeah, you only had an 'insolubles' number for just one filter, and if it was any other filter it would probably have a very similar insolubles number, so it's hard to distinguish their performance with that test. The ISO particle count tells way more. I've posted the graphs from the 'bus study' a few times in other threads discussing this, and it shows that a more efficient oil filter results in cleaner oil and less engine wear - that's the main reason people go another level and add a super high efficiency bypass filter system. It's pretty simple logic that better filters clean oil better, and cleaner oil means less wear particles and less engine wear. Will a less efficient oil filter still get you 250+K miles on your engine - yeah, if you change the oil on an appropriate regulate basis.

Most oil filter forum readers know that using a less efficient oil filter isn't going to 'blow-up' an engine ... but it could certainly cause more engine wear over the lifetime of the engine, and cause the engine to start showing it's age sooner (less compression, more oil use, looser rod & crank bearing, etc). And it's pretty hard to determine how worn and engine is by just driving a vehicle, unless the engine is on it's last leg - and most people don't keep a vehicle that long to see that happen anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted By: jongies3
No brainer, go for the XG, the Mopar filters are made by Tearolator, definitely don't want those on your engine! Fram won't void your warranty providing the correct filter is used.


And using the Mopar filter would void his warranty because of a filter failure? Fram's closet is not without skeletons either. Every manufacturing process has failures, otherwise Mikel Harry would not be a household name in engineering and statistical circles. It just happens that he is comparing two completely different classes of filters in this case: a cellulose OEM filter made for max savings; and a synthetic, wire backed filter made to a higher expectation (and price bracket).

Even the basic Fram is better than a Tearolator. It's just the facts, Fram doesn't have nearly the tainted history that Purolator does. The XG isn't that much more money and is worth it for the protection it provides over the so-so protection you'd get with a Mopar filter. If it was my new truck, I'd want the best for it!
 
If the Mopar OE filter is made by Purolator the decision is simple for me, Fram. I'm done with Purolator, and have been for a few years now. All mfgs. have problems, but when they're ignored as long as Purolator has ignored theirs that's all the reason in the world for me to take my business elsewhere.
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: WillB
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
The 2 options aren't even on the same level.

What about the TG?


What’s the word on the TG?


It’s a good filter. Good up to 10k. I use them all the time.

75% of this forum who use/ recommend the Ultra should just use the TG. Too many Ultras here cut upen at 7.5k/ 6 months.

I would agree.
A ToughGuard is a really good filter as well, and most do not use the XG to it's full potential.
Filtration between the TG and XG are pretty much the same and both have silicone ADV.
Yes the XG has full syn, wife backed media with metal endcaps, so it is "better".

The thing is, there is maybe $2 difference between the two in most applications (less than $1 in a few), so for an additional $2, why not get the best, even if you are not going to use it to it's full benefit?


As to the OP, I would choose any Fram over a Purolator made Mopar.
 
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