I wish I could get a 555 rebox. The Moog directions say to grease every 2000-4000 miles which is ridiculous. This isn't 1960. No one is going to crawl under their car every 2k miles to grease them.
Moog vs Mevotech?
- Thread starter buck91
- Start date
If I have zerks, I make it a point to lube them at every OCI(3-4K) or when I happen to underneath the car, whichever happens the soonest. Usually with EP calcium sulfonate or moly-lithium grease.
So... OE sucks. Moog sucks. Mevotech sucks. Cheap chinese crap, obviously, sucks. What is one to use?!?
20k on my 2011 F150 Moog front end "rebuild" (tie rods, upper control arms, lower ball joints) and its still tight and happy. 100k+ on OEM.
20k on my 2011 F150 Moog front end "rebuild" (tie rods, upper control arms, lower ball joints) and its still tight and happy. 100k+ on OEM.
I don't think I've ever seen anyone prefer aftermarket over OEM until that guy. It's pretty much common "knowledge" (ok I'll use quotes) that OEM is the only assumingly reliable choice. Not to say all OEM is good. I mean if you're buying Kia and Scion parts... maybe make them yourself.
Maybe in the rust belt? First time hearing it as well. OE tie rod ends and ball joints last forever out here.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2022
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- 221
Bit late to this, but important update. Since installing the Bilstein B6 struts on the van I wanted a heavy duty end link also. So the shop and I purchase the Moog, Mevotech and Duralast heavy duty end links for the 2020 Connect. Over the weekend, we drove with these end links to see if they suited the van. The end result, all three of these end links damaged the van's inner fire wall/chases/frame. Deep gashes on the frame and at one point at one of the end links got lodged between the coil springs and firewall/frame. We sent word to all three manufactures and only Duralast removed these links as being suitable for the Connect. Mevotech and Moog have yet to comment or remove these links from the vehicle drop down. Duralast was disappointed in hearing that their end links would not articulate correctly on the van and sent us another set of cheaper end links. While posting this several months ago, an Amazon vendor claiming to be with Zeder Corp ask if they could help with the van build. They sent us a set of their Super-pro 300mm-345mm Volvo end links. We've yet to adjust these because we're still searching for a performance sway bar for the van. Moral of the story, if you purchase something from a site that lists it for your vehicle and it doesn't actually fit, contact the part manufacture and let them know as well as send pictures.. because to them.. it looks good on paper, yet no one has actually fitted these products on their vehicles until it's too late.
Deep gashes on the inner firewall/frame right beside the B6 strut
Deep gashes on the inner firewall/frame right beside the B6 strut
I need to revisit this in a few months - the Ranger is due for a front end rebuild. I’m leaning towards Motorcraft LBJs, Moog LCA bushings and Delphi UCAs. Motorcraft still stocks the inner tie rods but not the outers.
Not using Moog Problem Solver grade or anything Mevotech. Also staying with sealed.
Not using Moog Problem Solver grade or anything Mevotech. Also staying with sealed.
stick with Motorcraft, CTR, Delphi, and Sankei 555
Get the Motorcraft upper and lower control arms. They have the ball joints already installed. All four are still available from Rock Auto
Motorcraft inner and outer tie rods are also listed on RA for your 1998 Ranger
Motorcraft only has those for 4x4 torsion bar models. This is a 4x2 coil spring model.stick with Motorcraft, CTR, Delphi, and Sankei 555
Get the Motorcraft upper and lower control arms. They have the ball joints already installed. All four are still available from Rock Auto
Motorcraft inner and outer tie rods are also listed on RA for your 1998 Ranger
Do a little checking, including factory part numbers, i sourced all of mine for a 2002 form Motorcraft all be it a few years ago. Energy Suspension for sway bar bushings and end links. IRRC the Motorcraft had "oe" after the part number. I did the lower ball joints and upper arms.
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- Feb 25, 2024
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Mevotech TTX line is great.
Anyone got experience with Dorman premium control arms? Supposed to be better than Dorman OE solutions control arms?
Trying to see if there’s any difference between these two, they look identical except the premium one seems to have been a more recently released item.
Dorman CA96033PR vs. Dorman 524-904
Price is only like $20 different too. Strange.
Trying to see if there’s any difference between these two, they look identical except the premium one seems to have been a more recently released item.
Dorman CA96033PR vs. Dorman 524-904
Price is only like $20 different too. Strange.
stick with Motorcraft, CTR, Delphi, and Sankei 555
Get the Motorcraft upper and lower control arms. They have the ball joints already installed. All four are still available from Rock Auto
Motorcraft inner and outer tie rods are also listed on RA for your 1998 Ranger
Would Dorman Premium (not Dorman OE) or Suspensia be on the same level as Delphi or CTR?
Suspensia is worth trying. They are also made in Turkey and probably reasonable quality.
Maybe Dorman premium
I can think of three words that rhyme with "Moog"... can you?
From what I am seeing my 96 Grand Marquis have plastic tie rod balls in them. Moog and Mevotech have sintered powder metal which has to be better than plastic if you keep them lubed. The OE are sealed non greasable and I prefer being able to put my own grease in it.
