Moly Additive's?

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I can get a moly additive fairly easily in my area, the moly is in collodial suspension and the base oil has its own additive package to keep it from foaming and such.

Would you guys use something like this?
Just want to hear your opinions.
Does the moly have to be in solution to work properly?

I've used it before, and yes eventually it gets filtered out (like 3000kms), but it seems to do its job. I've over revved my motor a couple of times and its running perfect, no clanking of any sort.

Here is a link MolySlip
 
I don't know about MolySlip, but here is a moly add that works great and has a lot of other goodies for your engine:

Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment (VOA on this site):
Moly: 2324
Boron: 1046
Calcium: 1050
Magnesium: 968
Phosphorus: 1792
Zinc: 1740

I think that you will have to come to the States to get some as I don't think it is marketed in Canada. It goes for $4 a 15 oz bottle. 75 cSt will increase your oil viscosity about 2 cSt for a full bottle, but I just emailed Valvoline and they assured it will help cold starting properties of the oil. Many have added it at 1 oz per quart though. Search for thereads on it and you will see that there is a lot of satisfaction with this product. Also fights oxidation and so would be good for extending an OCI.

Also, I never heard of the Synpower Oil Treatment's moly getting filtered out. I doubt it would happen. I don't think you would want one that does. Search MolySlip. I am sure there is some discussion of it here.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:
I don't know about MolySlip, but here is a moly add that works great and has a lot of other goodies for your engine:

Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment (VOA on this site):
Moly: 2324
Boron: 1046
Calcium: 1050
Magnesium: 968
Phosphorus: 1792
Zinc: 1740

I think that you will have to come to the States to get some as I don't think it is marketed in Canada. It goes for $4 a 15 oz bottle. 75 cSt will increase your oil viscosity about 2 cSt for a full bottle, but I just emailed Valvoline and they assured it will help cold starting properties of the oil. Many have added it at 1 oz per quart though. Search for thereads on it and you will see that there is a lot of satisfaction with this product. Also fights oxidation and so would be good for extending an OCI.

Also, I never heard of the Synpower Oil Treatment's moly getting filtered out. I doubt it would happen. I don't think you would want one that does. Search MolySlip. I am sure there is some discussion of it here.


I'm not sure you can buy that stuff any more? I've only seen the Valvoline Maxlife oil or engine treatment for sale.
 
Should be available at PepBoys, Murrays, and AutoZone. I doubt it has been discontinued since the Valvoline site is now showing it with an updated label. Also, some folks have been special ordering it at their local NAPA auto store (do they have those in Canada?).
 
Of all the chains you guyz mentioned we only really have NAPA, and Car-Quest. We have Parts Source, but they are run by Canadian Tire.

We get Valvoline Synpower, but I've never seen the oil treatment, I'll see if NAPA has it. I actually get my Synpower from Walmart
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Has any of you used Lubro-Moly? What's the concensus on that product, because from the sounds of it, its basically the same thing as MolySlip.

I'd think anything that isn't in solution would everntually get filtered out, but not before it would coat the needed area's I hope.
 
Do a search but I think Lubro-Moly may have moly only in name, not the product (certainly not ALL their products contain lots of moly).

You may want to consider Torco MPZ: Torco MPZ VOA
The moly in MPZ is the organic type which is soluble in oil and better suited to engine lube; Mugen MT105 is another organic moly concentrate you can try but it is expensive.

Moly sulfide is the form that can settle out.

I'm using 100 mL MPZ (with some left over MT105) in my car right now and I'll see what my UOA looks like in a couple months.

Here's my most recent UOA: Moly brew UOA
 
I don't know, call me paranoid, but after all of the former posts by MolaKule that I've read about additives in general, it seems to me the only additive I would want to add to my oil, if I really wanted to, would be his SX-UP product. It mixes with most every basestock, and will not interact with the additive package already contained in the oil.

Just my two cents, and I'll be adding this product to my oil at my diesel's next OCI with the oil, so I'll be putting my money where my mouth is...
 
Please look at this thread
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=002990#000000

The general consensus I have read is against most Molybdenum DiSulphide in suspension (eg MolySlip. You may want to look at products from Specialty Formulations or Schaeffers if you want to boost Moly in a useful way.

I have heard decent anecdotal things about LubroMoly but it may be different things at different times in different Geos. I know one garage that deals almost exclusively with German cars that sells it, and they don't sell any other snake oil products. They do sell Motul Oils so they actually appear to be going out of their way to source spoecific products they think are good.
 
IMHO collodial Moly will reduce wear, noise, heat far better than any OIL soluble moly now avalible bar none.

BUT it will clog, and settle/filter out but for use in a gear box with no filter it is the BOMB
cooler running by a big bunch.
bruce
 
quote:

Originally posted by bruce381:
IMHO collodial Moly will reduce wear, noise, heat far better than any OIL soluble moly now avalible bar none.

BUT it will clog, and settle/filter out but for use in a gear box with no filter it is the BOMB
cooler running by a big bunch.
bruce


It is a good general point that there are things that can be very useful in one application but hugely problematic in others. Both the filtration requirements and the heat of the combustion process put totally different stresses. So stuff that may be great in gear oil may not be good in the engine.
 
quote:

IMHO collodial Moly will reduce wear, noise, heat far better than any OIL soluble moly now avalible bar none.

I agree with Peterr, it depends on the application.


Collodial moly is great for gear lubes, whereas organo-metallic (soluble) moly is better for engines and hydraulic oils.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MolaKule:

quote:

IMHO collodial Moly will reduce wear, noise, heat far better than any OIL soluble moly now avalible bar none.

I agree with Peterr, it depends on the application.


Collodial moly is great for gear lubes, whereas organo-metallic (soluble) moly is better for engines and hydraulic oils.


Tis true, but remember too that it does also depend on the Blender i.e the MFG.
 
Over revving isn't an indicator of the moly add being good. Most motors can do that fine in short bursts until you over do it enough so that the valves float and hit the pistons. Not something any amount of moly can help.
 
That is my thread earlier with the pics.

Just don't do it, I saw no difference other than a plugged up oil system and a waste of good oil.

[ October 05, 2005, 02:35 AM: Message edited by: BlazerLT ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by mechtech:
Havoline has loads of moly, and VSOT has mega loads of moly.

Yes, but we are talking about inorganic moly like what you see in MolySlip-E.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
That is my thread earlier with the pics.

Just don't do it, I saw no difference other than a plugged up oil system and a waste of good oil.


I've used Moly Slip a couple of times, it was never as bad as what you described.

The worst that happenend to me was a lifter tick I had gotten rid of(with Seafoam) came back when I put the whole can in with 6L's of oil. The next time, after a couple more treatments of Seafoam, I only put in a third of the can. So far so good.

I think your main problem was the Fram filter (especially with Extendaguard, PTFE is a no-no).

I've cut open an almost new Fram filter and was HORRIFIED at what I found. Metal shaving from when they tapped the thread were still inside, and the filter paper wasn't glued on all the way around.

Just my observations. I don't think I'll be buying anymore Molyslip, but I will use what I have left over. From what I've read, in small doses, its not that harmful.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dohc:

quote:

Originally posted by BlazerLT:
That is my thread earlier with the pics.

Just don't do it, I saw no difference other than a plugged up oil system and a waste of good oil.


I've used Moly Slip a couple of times, it was never as bad as what you described.

The worst that happenend to me was a lifter tick I had gotten rid of(with Seafoam) came back when I put the whole can in with 6L's of oil. The next time, after a couple more treatments of Seafoam, I only put in a third of the can. So far so good.

I think your main problem was the Fram filter (especially with Extendaguard, PTFE is a no-no).

I've cut open an almost new Fram filter and was HORRIFIED at what I found. Metal shaving from when they tapped the thread were still inside, and the filter paper wasn't glued on all the way around.

Just my observations. I don't think I'll be buying anymore Molyslip, but I will use what I have left over. From what I've read, in small doses, its not that harmful.


No, it wasn't the filter, it was the moly plugging up my filter, I saw the grey slurry coming out of it and it wasn't pretty.
 
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