Mold & Paint ADVICE needed... Drywall got too cold

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I wish i had remembered to get a "before" picture but here is the story....

A releative hadnt cleaned an outer corner bedroom is about 6 cold months or more. The house is in a Northern climate and built in the early 1990's basic style ranch. Minimal high tech foams sealants and manner of high techy stuff.

He had a wicker chest of stuffed animals wedged in the cold corner (outer walls corner) of the bedroom. He pulled it away and had mold on about an 8inch run esch was of the lower corner where the basket was blocking heat and airflow and the darn stuffed animals added to the problem.

I probed the wall and the condensation had moistened three inches of drywall and the mold was bad enough that she wanst going to just wipe away.

I used gloves and a 3M mask and Concrobium spray to wipe most mold away and hold down the spores from taking flight. I the cut away affected areas until I arrived at clean dry-wall. I plan on cutting even farther than that (as seen by the pencil marks in the wider picture.

Luckily I can confirm NO leaks or pipes were the source. And dry clean studs are revealed. I sprayed the whole area with Concrobium and used a HEPA vac to pick up only the last few deywall bits befor taking a break for the night. Oh, I also cut away the most affected carpet and pad and tack strip. The sub floor was not "soaked" just surface softness I speayed with Concrobium and scraped away and resprayed with Concrobium yet again.

So.... Do i just do another day's treatment of Concrobium and start the rebuild...

OR

should I apply a special paint to the subfloor that was affected beneath the carpet??? Or will that counteract the beneficial effect of the treatment properties left behind by the Concrobium and thereby ACCIDENTALLY provide a fodder for future issues in the form of paint on the subfloor?

In other words, when is "enough" as far as preventative coating amd sprays and using them in concert? Secondarily when is enough enough as to "letting the subfloor dry to a crisp?

PICS of the cleaned but still slightly musty (if nose smoshed onto subfloor) area awaiting final drywall cutback and project finishing.

Reccomendations?



Closeup ( note, any darkness of the subfloor chips you see is just the material color and not soaking wet) although even after Concorbium it does still smell misty of nos pushed right to it)
 
Make sure everything is fully dry. Is the insulation wet? I would be running a fan to dry that area.

There could be mould spores in that room. I would open the window for a bit to get some fresh air into that room. Do you need to repair the wall right away? I would leave it open for a bit to make sure nothing comes back.

Make sure when you fix the vapor barrier that you use a good amount of sheathing tape aka tuck tape on the vapor Barrier. I also think you should buy a mold proof sheet of drywall for the repair.
 
Originally Posted By: JC1
Make sure everything is fully dry. Is the insulation wet? I would be running a fan to dry that area.

There could be mould spores in that room. I would open the window for a bit to get some fresh air into that room. Do you need to repair the wall right away? I would leave it open for a bit to make sure nothing comes back.

Make sure when you fix the vapor barrier that you use a good amount of sheathing tape aka tuck tape on the vapor Barrier. I also think you should buy a mold proof sheet of drywall for the repair.


I had the window open for the entire work time with a fan blowing out... not that air from our cool winter day didn't push back inward ... ugh. But did indeed get fresh air into the room with the door closed to other rooms.

The fiberglass is as dry as dry can be as well as the studs. although I have no doubt by the nature of the world we live in... just cleaning up the affected materials has sent some spores out ward and likely inward into the wall as the vapor barrier is just staple allont the bottom.

Thinking more about that. I wonder if it would be better to just staple the vapor barrier to the bottom wall plate as it was to begin with or to trim up a half inch and apply some tape of some kind. that's assuming that the tape A. wouldn't have composition of itself t that would be food for mold or B. that it wouldn't release from the wood itself eventually.


Interesting conundrum... to tape or to staple on the vapor barrier.

I can leave it open for several days and perhaps I will do several treatments of the Concorbium. although I see that much of it is "inert"... water?... so I'd better do my sprays and then take a break to let it dry thoroughly. I suppose I should pretreat the new tack strip for the carpet (usually wood. And maybe even pre treat the new carpet triangle I am going to tuck into the corner.

Good idea on the mold proof drywall.


more thoughts welcome.


Now his (and my) minds are running wild about how "far to go" with this treatment. Do we cut out 5 feet of carpet just to "be sure" LOL. Do we empty the room and fog everything with an expensive fogger and the Concorbium? I can tell you one thing even the slightest hint of mustiness at work today has my nose popping alert!
 
I thought if you got it dry, the mold would go inactive. Clean as best as one could, then keep the area dry.
 
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