Mobile Clean 5000 (compromising engine seals?)
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Well if Mobil 1 is group 3 then what could Mobil7500 be? and what could Mobil5000 be?........grpII?? grpI?? Grp0??
I got a case of the 5000 at Pep Boys for $1.39 a quart, so i'll be giving it a try soon, but i'm only planning on using it for my auto-rx phase, so I doubt that's a very good test
What's wrong with all the ones in the archives?
I think some of the "answers" in this thread are the
This stuff is getting tiring.
LOL !!! . . .
This thread should be stickied. It'd be a real shame to let some of the wisdom posted in here get shuffled off of the front page.
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A properly formulated synthetic does not hurt seals at all especialy seeing howmost of them today are GIII wich is nothing more then heavily refined conventional oil! It is basicly devoide of wax,solvents and is more uniform then lesser base stocks. Their is also requirements for the % or saturated compounds. Conventional oil does not chemicaly hurt seals either! Now deposits left behind by some oils can cuase dryrot to occur.
The bigest cause of premature seal failure is lack of maintnece in the form of over extended OCI's with cheap oil. THe next would be solvents in Conventional group 1 products. THe next major killer is over heating. Seal swelling compound in oils are need but can cause issues. The higher the amount of seal swelling compound like what is found in a lot of High Mileage oils the worse they are for your seals.
If you really wanted to kill your seals do a solvent flush each oil change. Then when you are adding your new oil dump in a can of engine oil stop leak!
Now in terms of when the best time to add synthetic to an engine that is easy! The sooner the better since you will develop fewer deposits with a quality synthetic! Seal do not ever break in and do not need break-in time! They start wearing out the second the vechile starts it's life.
So avoid solvents,High Mileage oil's if not needed,engineoil stop leaks, and over extended OCI with cheap conventional!
The bigest cause of premature seal failure is lack of maintnece in the form of over extended OCI's with cheap oil. THe next would be solvents in Conventional group 1 products. THe next major killer is over heating. Seal swelling compound in oils are need but can cause issues. The higher the amount of seal swelling compound like what is found in a lot of High Mileage oils the worse they are for your seals.
If you really wanted to kill your seals do a solvent flush each oil change. Then when you are adding your new oil dump in a can of engine oil stop leak!
Now in terms of when the best time to add synthetic to an engine that is easy! The sooner the better since you will develop fewer deposits with a quality synthetic! Seal do not ever break in and do not need break-in time! They start wearing out the second the vechile starts it's life.
So avoid solvents,High Mileage oil's if not needed,engineoil stop leaks, and over extended OCI with cheap conventional!
John Browning,
What would you consider NOT cheap dino?
What would you consider NOT cheap dino?
By cheap I am talkinmg about the formulation not the actual sticker price. I consider most conventional to be cheap! I would at least use name brand products that use more GII or better in their product. I would never go longer then 6 months or 5000 miles (wich ever comes first) on a conventional oil and in some cases less ten that.
One thing good about useing 5W30 or 5W20 SM GF-3 oil is that it has to have a decent amount of GII in it to pass spec! Once you start getting thicker then 5W30 it is anyones guess how much groupI is in the product! So if you are going to run conventional at least look for 5W30 or 5W20 SM GF3 rated oils.
I like Delo,Chevron Supreme,Havoline and maybe Trop Artic. The rest are all over the place in terms of price and performance. I personelly would probably drop down to a 4 month oil change routine if I ever went back to conventional oil.I am too comfortable with my twice a year oil changes.
One thing good about useing 5W30 or 5W20 SM GF-3 oil is that it has to have a decent amount of GII in it to pass spec! Once you start getting thicker then 5W30 it is anyones guess how much groupI is in the product! So if you are going to run conventional at least look for 5W30 or 5W20 SM GF3 rated oils.
I like Delo,Chevron Supreme,Havoline and maybe Trop Artic. The rest are all over the place in terms of price and performance. I personelly would probably drop down to a 4 month oil change routine if I ever went back to conventional oil.I am too comfortable with my twice a year oil changes.
I don't think the info in a typical $25 used oil analysis of Mobil Clean 5000 will reveal any of the types of fluids that would affect seal swell.
The spectrometer analysis will only reveal the basic metallic elements present in the used oil sample. Other tests will measure TBN, viscosity, fuel dilution, etc and these items do not provide any indication of seal swell performance.
An ASTM test for seal fluid compatability is part of the ILSAC & API certification routine, but I don't think any results for any brand or formulation have ever been displayed on this forum.
I have a Clean 5000 used oil analysis that i can email to someone .. can they please post it for me? i havent posted on this forum yet. Thanks, please send me a PM with your email and I will email it right over.
THANKS, hopefully it will help contribute to the discussion @ hand.
THANKS, hopefully it will help contribute to the discussion @ hand.
Holy Shiznit!!! LOL Someone answered me. Thank you
Looks like this stuff performsed well for you. Not that it would perform the same in all engines, but I'm hoping it would if used under a reasonable OCI of 4-5k. There we see the sodium, but for the average non-UOA running JOE, that should be of ZERO concern.
Looks like this stuff performsed well for you. Not that it would perform the same in all engines, but I'm hoping it would if used under a reasonable OCI of 4-5k. There we see the sodium, but for the average non-UOA running JOE, that should be of ZERO concern.
Wow that looks nice! I think i'm gonna be using that in my Integra for the actual 3k+ runs rather than the Auto-RX phase, after seeing that
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Wow that looks nice! I think i'm gonna be using that in my Integra for the actual 3k+ runs rather than the Auto-RX phase, after seeing that
Yeah, can you imagine that? I used *that* great oil to break in my car to 10k then used the blend version of that oil, the DC 75k for another 10k. I used both for the intial 3 oil changes until 21,634 which is when I took the last of the DC 75k out for what is in there now, the famous Motorcraft which has been in there now for 4500 miles and counting and I am getting +1.5-2.5 mpg off of it. I believe the DC 5k and the DC 75k use the same base oil but then as I read on the back of the 75k bottle, there is like 18% more cleaner and thus there is the claim of guaranteed protection for 7500 miles versus the "5000" mile guarantee for the Mobil DC 5000! Great oil to break in a car to say the least but not too late to use in older model car as long as you use it a few cycles atleast.
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Who ever told you about the seal problem probably noticed a huge increase in Na in a used oil analysis without knowing it was part of the add pack.
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