Mobil 1 Truck and SUV going in...

[RevRider]

Good Evening Oilers,

I will be sending my sample to Blackstone on Monday. It is Amsoil 10w/40 motorcycle oil, with 2400 miles on it, put into service January 05 and will be drained tomorrow, about 9 months on the oil with oil filtration by Amsoil. No top offs during this time, I have a Honda Valkyrie, and gratefully, it doesn't use any oil. Mileage on bike is 10,700. I am hoping for a good report.

I have scheduled to go in Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5w/40 --- 1st time I have ever used non-motorcycle specific oil in the Valk - 1st time ever in all my bikes and I've been riding since 1980.

The Valk Factor Service Manual only states to use SF or SG motoroil in the right viscosity ratings - from 10/30 -- 10/40 -- 20/40 -- 20/50.

The factory service manual says nothing about using motorcycle specific, says nothing about avoiding Energy Conserving, says nothing about avoiding Friction Modifiers. In the service manual, the part covering the clutch, it states in the problem solving section just to make sure the right viscosity is being used.

From my research in the board, and the answers I have received from those who have responded, everything would indicate Mobil 1 Truck and SUV should perform just fine. That virtually no friction modifiers (moly) is in the oil according to the VOA I've read. In fact M1 MX4T has way more moly than the T&S...

Part of the reason for trying the Truck & SUV now is I am going to run it for about 1300 miles to the 12,000 mark - it will be time for service then, valve checking etc., etc. I was going to put in the M1 MX4T, I have 4 quarts ready to go, but I didn't want to use them for just 1300 miles and then have the dealer dump it (About $12 per quart). This also gives me a chance to have a report on the Amsoil UOA, followed by the M1 T&S, and then the M1 MX4T.

I was almost ready to try the Shell Rotella 15w/40 or the Delvac 1300, regular petro, due to cost and the short time it would be in the bike, but I've always used synthetics and couldn't bring myself to change...habits

Why as I write this do I feel a little nervous about the M1 T&S?

Because I am a creature of habit, I've never used non-motorcycle specific, and I am wondering if I am doing the right thing by trying this?

From my research, I believe using the 5w as opposed to 10w has no detrimental impact, only positive as it should flow better in the cold startups.

Well, with this all said, is there any Mobil 1 Truck and SUV users out there with success stories? And, from what I've said in the post, is my analysis correct?

Thanks for the feedback,

RevRider

 

[Bagger_Matt]

I changed oils and turned around second guessing it and changed oil again in one week before.
We are all sad people

 

[RevRider]

Hey Superglide,

I am laughing over here on your post...I told my wife, she endures me, married 20 years, that I always 2nd guess myself, I rarely trust myself to make the right decisions, analyzing, re-analyzing, followed by more analyzing - and then sadly never feeling I made the right decision.

As I sit here tonight, I am questioning whether to put the oil in or not - I have the M1 MX4T ready to go if I change my mind. Indeed "...we are all sad people..." to quote you, so aptly stated.

 

[SKUNKY]

Yo ..Rev..remember this..M/C specific oils are made for the extreem guy who loves to live in the 14k RPM range when it's 95* outside..so if you like to smell the roses the T&S will give you plenty of protection..put it in your car when you drain it out..

 

[car54]

I ran delvac-1 5w-40 or Mobil 1 15w-50 (whatever I had at the time) for 30,000 miles in my 2000 gsxr600. I rode the bike and shared it with my friend at track days, it probably saw 1000+ miles over a span of two summers doing track days. I usually ran 5000-7500 mile intervals because of all the miles put on it.. sold it when someone offered too much money to pass up, and the current owner is still riding with no problems. it never burned any oil, and although I never sent anything in for analysis or did any compression checks, it never seemed to lose any power.

 

[resslera]

Revrider,

Don't sweat using the non/MC oil. You will notice zero difference and so will your bike. I was caught up in the MC specific oil craze for years but have made the switch. Used Delo400 in my DR350 with good results, I use Mobil 1 15w50 in my XR650R with good results, and I put Shell Rotella 15w40 in my Dads ATV with good results.

The big thing is to make sure you are putting in the propper grade. If your bike calls for a 10w40 a 5w40 should be fine. My XR runs hot so I go with the 15w50 and the overall recommended oil for my bike is 20w50.

 

[RevRider]

Hey Skunky, thanks for the note back, the Valk redlines at 6500, most of my riding is at the 3000 to 3500 rpm range, 60 to 70 mph...I do like to see the roses as I smell them, thanks for the feedback...

Car54, that's a good testimony...are you still riding?

Resslera, as you can see from my post, I have been caught up with motorcycle specific virtually all my riding days. It's not the money aspect, but I don't like to pay more foolishly, if you know what I mean...

I have considered carefully the properties of the M1 T&S, which are the same for the Delvac1, and I decided to use it for the winter, the 5w being a little easier on initial startup flow. The Gold Cap Mobil 1 15w50 and the M1 Motorcycle oil is virtually the same, except the moly content is less than the motorcycle specific.

It seems all the oil companies would love $10 a quart for oil as opposed to $5 to $6 for a synthetic, or a couple of dollars per quart for a shell rotella diesel juice. So they put the fear of engine destruction on a cyclist -- and by our very nature, we do love our machines and only want the best for them, and it appears they take full advantage of that.

You know, I ride about 2500 miles to 3000 miles per year, so extended drains really are meaningless to me, the oil is going at either 6 month intervals, not to exceed 1 year, so I asked myself, just how much additive pack has to be in place for protection for those miles. Also, I require an oil to keep the engine clean inside...

It was nice just going down to the corner auto store, picking up 4 quarts of the M1 T&S instead of ordering and waiting for it to come in, if you know what I mean.

I hesitated a little bit on the 5w instead of 10w, but all my research indicates that the 5w is better for the cold, and in fact M1 says that that this oil meets 10w service properties, ie., 10w/40 and 10w30.

In fact, one study said use the lightest weight you can for startup, especially with syn oil because not much VI's are needed. That FLOW = LUBRICATION, so get that oil flowing asap on startup...would you agree?

Great board, thanks to everyone taking time...

RevRider