Mobil 1 Syn 10w/30 - 5000 mi - 05 Hyudia Elantra

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Sacramento, CA
Oil: Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30
Oil filter: Mobil 1
Sample Date: 1-12-2010

Car: 2005 Hyundia Elantra GT
mileage at time of test: 95,000 miles
Amount of miles on oil: 5,000 miles
Analyzed by: Blackstone


Aluminum 2
Chromium 1
Iron 12
Copper 1
Lead 1
Tin 1
Molybdenum 89
Nickel 0
Maganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 4
Boron 63
Silicon 8
Sodium 7
Calcium 2734
Magnesium 15
Phosphorus 682
Zinc 868
Barium 0


VIS @ 210 F 59.1
cst Viscosity @ 100 C 9.95
Flashpoint in F 405
Fuel % 0.5%
Antifreeze % 0.0%
Water % 0.0%
Insolubles % 0.3%

Blackstone's comments:
Your engine is wearing at an average (or, in the case of the bearings better than average) rate.
Air/oil filtration are good.
try 6000 miles next?

This is my 1st oil analysis. I have am not sure what all the above means, so input is appreciated.

Thanks!
 
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Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!
 
Everything looks good, the oil for the most part looks like it is new. I would guess you could extend your OCI to 7,500 miles+ quite safely, if you wanted to.
 
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!

Car is still under 10/100k powertrain.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!

Car is still under 10/100k powertrain.


Is synthetic oil a warranty requirement for Hyundai?

EDIT: Oh wait nevermind I know what your talking about. Sorry.
 
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OP-
Have you always run Mobil 1? If not, what was the previous oil fill? Is the Hyundai GT a 5 door hatchback that looks like a SAAB?
 
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!


Typical BITOG judgmental post. You don't know him or his reasons for doing a 5K OCI.
 
I used M1 10-30 for many years(23) and it will do 10K in most engines without a problem. In fact my sons 91 Ranger has 340K on M1 10-30 and the engine is very clean and still runs great. If you choose you can extend your OCI as your comfort level with let you.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
OP-
Have you always run Mobil 1? If not, what was the previous oil fill? Is the Hyundai GT a 5 door hatchback that looks like a SAAB?


this is the GT hatchback, so its the 5 door. funny you say saab, that is what i thought when i saw one but several of my friends dont see it that way. they also come in GT sedans (4 door).

I am the original owner of the car. after my breakin, like 1500 miles, i changed out the oil to mobil 1 synthetic oil. so ever since then, i have been running this oil in the car. i only went with sythetic because i heard that its a better oil.

i read on the elantraxd site that we don't need to change at 3500, but we can go to at least 5k. so i started changing at 5k. i have gone to like 7.5 or even 9k once on the oil change, but at 7.5 change, it felt like the car was dragging. so i stuck with 5k.

so on the elantraxd site, someone suggested that you should get an oil analysis done and post here. so that is what i did. this is the history of the vehicle and oil changes.

however, if you guys think i can go to 10k, then i will try 7.5k. it will out of warranty soon anyways. how do you know i can get more mileage out of this oil? someone said that "this oil is like new", how do you know and where is a chart for what new oil looks like? why should i use any conventional oil? if i can go to 10k on this oil, then what is the mobil 1 extended life oil for?

is the 'silicon' at 10 high? according to blackstone avg, it is like 8. what level of silicon would mean that its bad?

sorry for the numerous questions. i am just trying to educate myself.

thanks!!
 
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If you want to extend your OCI then get TBN on your next analysis. That will help you see how much life (active additives) is left in your oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ctc
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!


Typical BITOG judgmental post. You don't know him or his reasons for doing a 5K OCI.


I don't NEED to know the reason - it is still a waste no matter what reason you come up with!!!

That is a FACT.

Under warranty? Fine, I misspoke - do 7500, as required.

...but again, you DON'T NEED M1 to do that!!!
 
Well the oil is not completely like new and I am sure the TBN would show that, but I would guess the TBN would also show it has lots of life left in it. I said like new based on the fact that the viscosity started out at 10cst @ 100C, so it barely changed. Also, the flashpoint remains high which is a good thing and all the wear metals are low. Silicon and insolubles are also low, meaning that it looks like your filtration is working good.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!


It's tough to make that call without a UOA...
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Originally Posted By: ctc
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Typical BITOG waste of oil - could have easily done 10k, and car is not under warranty.

You really wanna do 5k? Use whatever conventional is on sale!


Typical BITOG judgmental post. You don't know him or his reasons for doing a 5K OCI.


I don't NEED to know the reason - it is still a waste no matter what reason you come up with!!!

That is a FACT.

Under warranty? Fine, I misspoke - do 7500, as required.

...but again, you DON'T NEED M1 to do that!!!


So if he was at the track every weekend you would still go 10K? What if all of his trips were less than 10 mi and this was a winter run? What if the car is new to him and he wants to make sure there's no major issues? I can go on...

He posted this on here for input and help deciphering the UOA, not to get scolded by oil nannies. Way to welcome someone to the board on his first post.
 
Originally Posted By: elantra
how do you know i can get more mileage out of this oil?


These three elements:

Calcium 2734
Phosphorus 682
Zinc 868

indicate that you've depleted relatively little of the three major anti-wear anti-acid additives in this oil.

Your viscosity:

VIS @ 210 F 59.1
cst Viscosity @ 100 C 9.95

indicates you're still in grade:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48&Itemid=55

Your insolubles:

Insolubles % 0.3%

indicate that the buildup of various particles is acceptable and your major wear metals:

Aluminum 2
Chromium 1
Iron 12
Copper 1
Lead 1
Tin 1

are low.

You don't seem to have fuel dilution or antifreeze in the oil.

Overall you can get more miles out of this oil with no downside.
 
Originally Posted By: Wilhelm_D
These three elements:

Calcium 2734
Phosphorus 682
Zinc 868

indicate that you've depleted relatively little of the three major anti-wear anti-acid additives in this oil.

Those elements' concentrations do not significantly decrease no matter how depleted the oil is. The molecules containing these elements undergo chemical reactions so there is conservation of mass.

What changes significantly are the types of molecules those elements are part of.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
Those elements' concentrations do not significantly decrease no matter how depleted the oil is.


Au contraire.
 
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