Mobil 1 HM 5w30 vs 0w40

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Question? I have a 2002 Chevy c3500 Silverado DRW 8.1l gas motor, I use for towing a heavy race car trailer. I am currently using M1 HM 5w30. This motor is a known oil user/burner, would switching to m1 0w40 help? It use about 1/2qt per 1000miles, I only put about 6000 miles a year on it. I do 1 yr oci. Or should I stick with the HM and just keep topping off.
 
M1 HM 5w30 might even be thicker than 0w40. If not, it's REAL close.

These 8.1L's are real common in boats on the Great Lakes. Most people run 10w40, any 40 weight HDEO (15w40 or 5w40), and many run 50 weights (5w50, 15w50 or 20w50).

If it were my truck, I'd try Mobil 1 15w50 if if you want to go to Walmart, get Rotella T6.
 
I use to run 15w50 in the old '89 c3500 7.4. It liked it, stopped the oil use age on that truck. The 0w40 is rated Ht/hs. I'm guessing hi temp high shear?
 
Depends on the cause of the oil consumption- if its light oil control ring tension then going heavier most likely won't help, or may even make it worse. If its getting past the valve stem seals, then a 40-weight might help, and M1 0w40 is one of the best 40-weights out there. Its certainly worth a try and won't harm anything.

You also have to remember that larger displacement engines (in particular bigger BORE engines) are inherently prone to burning a little more oil than small-bore small-displacement engines. 1/2 quart per 1K mile really isn't awful for an almost-500 cubic inch v8, IMO.
 
HTHS (high temp, high sheer) is a parameter just like visc @ 100C and 40C, it isn't a "rating".

The 0w-40 will be a tad thicker at operating temp and have a higher HTHS viscosity. it likely has higher AW additive levels as well.
 
The 0w40 is 3.6 cSt HTHSV while M1 HM 5w30 is 3.3 cSt. They are both pretty loaded with additives, it's a tough choice, one I had to make myself recently and I went with the 0w40.

In my particular engine it increased consumption but I'm only on my first fill of the 0w40
 
Depends on why its burning oil or if its leaking oil. Removing the high mileage additives will unswell the rubber seals throughout the engine. If you're burning that much oil I would not bother with synthetic because you have so much replenishment. Go with conventional like PYB 5W30 or 10w40 and see what happens. Or maybe maxlife semi.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The 0w40 is 3.6 cSt HTHSV while M1 HM 5w30 is 3.3 cSt. They are both pretty loaded with additives, it's a tough choice, one I had to make myself recently and I went with the 0w40.

In my particular engine it increased consumption but I'm only on my first fill of the 0w40


I find that to be pretty common switching to a synthetic from a conventional until a new glaze gets built up between the rings and the piston walls
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The 0w40 is 3.6 cSt HTHSV while M1 HM 5w30 is 3.3 cSt. They are both pretty loaded with additives, it's a tough choice, one I had to make myself recently and I went with the 0w40.

In my particular engine it increased consumption but I'm only on my first fill of the 0w40

The new/current M1 0W40 HTHS is 3.6 ? It was 3.8 last year.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
It's also listed at @ 100ºC - 12.9, I thought it was higher than 13 before?


It was. At one time the spec sheet showed 13.2, but the last one I saw was 13.8. I didn't realize it had dropped again.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Yes, it was recently reformulated. It is now GTL-based.


Where did you see anything about Mobil and GTL ?
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
10w-30 HM is 3.5 HTHS


Drat! He beat me to it. I also was going to suggest M1 HM 10w30. And if that doesn't help, HM 10w40.
 
I'd use a 5w40 in it, like Rotella T6.

I rented a Uhaul recently that had a Chevy 8.1L in it and it called for 15w40.
 
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