Mobil 1 EP vs high efficiency filters - does it matter?

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Hi, I am new here (not that anyone really cares) but I do have a question.

I would like to run 10,000 mile OCIs and I bought Mobil 1 EP oil. I do have a few of the Mobil high efficiency filters and was wondering if with such a long interval I need the EP filter as well? Just hate to waste the ones I have. I am not sure if there is even a difference or if it's just repackaging the same thing.
 
I'm new to those new oils/filters, but the experts here will no doubt chime in...

And, BTW, we all do care, and
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Scott
 
Greg..you should be alright.

You might think about doing oil analysis and seeing what is going on in your engine.

btw..how many miles on the vehicle you're planning on doing this for?
 
Thanks for the feedback so far. The car is a 2003 Acura TL with 18,000 miles. So the filter's an M1-104.
 
And I did see in the owner's manual that Acura (Honda) suggests changing the filter every 15,000 miles so I have to assume the Mobil 1 will go that far as well.
 
I'd use the newer M1 EP filter, with higher efficiency (99.2% multi-pass @ 10 microns), & twice the contaminant holding capacity of leading brand. It's "Designed for today's longer service intervals."
 
10K is no sweat for a M1 filter, new or old style. I did over that many times (with M1 filter and M1 10W30) in my Chrysler LHS. The last UOA was at 215K and could have come from an engine with 1/3 the mileage.
 
Russ300H, I didn't think a Chrys LHS could last that long. I had a '93 Intrepid with the 3.3L engine and didn't think the quality was very good.

Greg123, What I don't like about the manufacturer's websites is that they don't publish flow rate data (at a fixed temperature, 30 oil, fixed differential pressure) like at http://www.oilfilterstudy.com .
I don't know if the Mobil1 EP filter restricts the flow too much. Seems Amsoil really markets the better oil filters, possibly paying more attention to flow rates than Purolator has done with the low-flow-rate PureOne.
 
CC: It took three trannsmissions to get there! #3 died at 221K I have been looking for an LHS with a bad engine (to do a swap) and recently rebuilt transmission so I can have a decent platform to see how far this thing can really go. I have found numerous ones over 200K, but the cars are as bad as mine. The problem with the 3.5 was the 100K timing belt that people never changed and they lunched about ~120K or so. The 3.3 is the van engine with timing chain and there are numerous examples of those going over 200k. The worst engine from Chrysler ever IMHO is the 98 & up 2.7 sludge monster.

I have used P1, M1, P+, Wix and Amsoil. I have never had an engine die before it's time for any oil related failure.
 
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