I've used Seafoam and B12, and the clouds of smoke left behind in each application tell me that Seafoam is hardly "wimpy."
Mobil 1 burning oil, will it stop?
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I've used Seafoam and B12, and the clouds of smoke left behind in each application tell me that Seafoam is hardly "wimpy."
pouring lamp oil down a carb. will BLOW the same amount of smoke as Seafoam and B12
Well I dumped the approx. 1-1.5 month old Boil 1, and it was pretty ________ polluted. Smeld strong kind of a gas smell. Like partilly burnt fuel.
Could just be the smell from burnt oil too, as this Mobil 1 10W30 burnt 3 times as much oil as when I run the Wlamart Supertech 10W30.
But the oil looked nasty for just one month, regardless. I'm not running 3K on oil like that no matter what people here say.
I refilled wilth the Walmart Synthetic again. I can surely tell the difference with fresh WM after that messesed up M1.
Obviously my motor isn't tight as a drum, but it's not that bad of a motor.
I know people will say, it's the engine, not the oil. But really it's both. And this engine was rebuilt a while back (can't say for sure how many miles or years ago), and it is my replacement for the original, that I just put in about 2 years ago. So I can't afford to pour money into it, I have too much invested already for what the car is worth.
Having said all that, I give Mobil 1 10W30 the thumbs down, and Walmart Supertech 2000 Synthetic is the clear winner in THIS application.
Some are saying use 15W50 Mobil 1. Well winter is coming up, and it can get down close to 0 hear sometimes. If I burn a little oil, (and I probably will), I will use Chevron 20W50 to top off on the first half quart (up to one quart), to thicken it a tad for less oil burning, instead of running 15W50 in the winter. Then probably use chevron 10w30 for following top off if needed between oil changes, or Walmart SuperTech Synthetic 2000.
Could just be the smell from burnt oil too, as this Mobil 1 10W30 burnt 3 times as much oil as when I run the Wlamart Supertech 10W30.
But the oil looked nasty for just one month, regardless. I'm not running 3K on oil like that no matter what people here say.
I refilled wilth the Walmart Synthetic again. I can surely tell the difference with fresh WM after that messesed up M1.
Obviously my motor isn't tight as a drum, but it's not that bad of a motor.
I know people will say, it's the engine, not the oil. But really it's both. And this engine was rebuilt a while back (can't say for sure how many miles or years ago), and it is my replacement for the original, that I just put in about 2 years ago. So I can't afford to pour money into it, I have too much invested already for what the car is worth.
Having said all that, I give Mobil 1 10W30 the thumbs down, and Walmart Supertech 2000 Synthetic is the clear winner in THIS application.
Some are saying use 15W50 Mobil 1. Well winter is coming up, and it can get down close to 0 hear sometimes. If I burn a little oil, (and I probably will), I will use Chevron 20W50 to top off on the first half quart (up to one quart), to thicken it a tad for less oil burning, instead of running 15W50 in the winter. Then probably use chevron 10w30 for following top off if needed between oil changes, or Walmart SuperTech Synthetic 2000.
Nickdfresh. Less talking more listening!!! What the heck does smoke out the exhaust have to do with cleaning the piston ring pack area? It has nothing to do with cleaning and everything to do with being burnt off. All of that white smoke means that the solvent is not cleaning anything it is geting burnt. When you do a proper piston soak you should get very little if any smoke out the tail pipe at all.
When you suck the stuff through a vaccum line you have no idea how much is getting to each cylinder. I can gurantee that each cylinder is not geting an equal amount and their is probably one cylinder that is getting almost nothing.The vaccum line tech. is for people who are either too lazy or stupid to remove the plugs and soak it directly. I guess their are also those that simply do not know any better as well. Their is also a chance for hydro lock with the vaccum line method. It is much safer but still not that effective to mist the solvent from an areosol can through the intake track. This why the solvent is atomized already and will more evenly distribute itself to all of the cylinders.
If you want to see lots of smoke suck some 2stroke oil through that vaccum line!!!
Seafoam is mostly mineral spirts and alchol.
When you suck the stuff through a vaccum line you have no idea how much is getting to each cylinder. I can gurantee that each cylinder is not geting an equal amount and their is probably one cylinder that is getting almost nothing.The vaccum line tech. is for people who are either too lazy or stupid to remove the plugs and soak it directly. I guess their are also those that simply do not know any better as well. Their is also a chance for hydro lock with the vaccum line method. It is much safer but still not that effective to mist the solvent from an areosol can through the intake track. This why the solvent is atomized already and will more evenly distribute itself to all of the cylinders.
If you want to see lots of smoke suck some 2stroke oil through that vaccum line!!!
Seafoam is mostly mineral spirts and alchol.
without a used oil analysis and some REAL science, you are urinated into a HEAD wind with your mouth open
no TBN, no suspended particles, no elements analysis, no viscosity....just wild speculation
no TBN, no suspended particles, no elements analysis, no viscosity....just wild speculation
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