Mobil 1 better cleaner than AutoRx?
- Thread starter buster
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Yeah, they ditch that as quick as it came on the market. They really must have lost a bundle on the stuff. I don't recall if we ever got a real reason for the "ooops! Sorry! Never mind!" action there.
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Originally Posted By: sprintman
My advice is don't listen to anything I say as I don't follow 'the rules'
Okay!
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I definitely advise against using M1 for clean or rinse.
Okay!
My advice is don't listen to anything I say as I don't follow 'the rules'
Okay!
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I definitely advise against using M1 for clean or rinse.
Okay!
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Yeah, they ditch that as quick as it came on the market. They really must have lost a bundle on the stuff. I don't recall if we ever got a real reason for the "ooops! Sorry! Never mind!" action there.
Instead, we got "Adaptive Molecules!"
Yeah, they ditch that as quick as it came on the market. They really must have lost a bundle on the stuff. I don't recall if we ever got a real reason for the "ooops! Sorry! Never mind!" action there.
Instead, we got "Adaptive Molecules!"
Originally Posted By: sprintman
You I respect, but I'd still like to see proof. Apologies...stephen
Sprintman, Wish that i had proof, just hearsay as to what i read on here and the web. Apology accepted! Cheers to you mate. http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/images/icons/default/smile.gif
Joe
You I respect, but I'd still like to see proof. Apologies...stephen
Sprintman, Wish that i had proof, just hearsay as to what i read on here and the web. Apology accepted! Cheers to you mate. http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/images/icons/default/smile.gif
Joe
Thankyou. I started shift work a few weeks back (airport security) and it's really hard to focus as permanent slepp deprivation screws you up. Back to IT sales I think.
I like turtles.
I have no idea if Mobil1 10W-30 High Mileage is "better" than Auto-RX. But it sure seems to be cleaning out my engine with about 3,700 miles on the oil...
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
Try the same experiment with a bottle of AutoRx.
Your point is as we all kmow the rsult. Your posts are repetitive and tiring..
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Try the same experiment with a bottle of AutoRx.
The difference is that you don't fill a sump with Auto RX.
Try the same experiment with a bottle of AutoRx.
The difference is that you don't fill a sump with Auto RX.
Again what is your point? Somebody here has an agenda and even myself of very low intelligence has grasped it.
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Your point is as we all kmow the rsult. Your posts are repetitive and tiring..
No, my posts cover a wide range of topics. If you want repetitive and tiring, click here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=userposts&id=193
You may notice a common theme.
Your point is as we all kmow the rsult. Your posts are repetitive and tiring..
No, my posts cover a wide range of topics. If you want repetitive and tiring, click here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=userposts&id=193
You may notice a common theme.
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
I'm not driving in your freezer. and what other oils have you tried this with?
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: Rick20
Great. So what will Mobil 1 be next year, Group IV, part group III, mostly group III? I am not posting here to debate whether or not M! is a great, good, or okay oil. But it seems to me that the transparency rules of the mere definition of what comes into play regarding the badging of full synthetic oils is far from transparent. After all, we have seen diester, triester bottling labels in the past all associated with one brand name. Is it too much to ask the manufacturer whether or not it is all group IV or not?
What does this have to do with it cleaning my engine?
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
I'm not driving in your freezer. and what other oils have you tried this with?
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Your point is as we all kmow the rsult. Your posts are repetitive and tiring..
No, my posts cover a wide range of topics. If you want repetitive and tiring, click here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=userposts&id=193
You may notice a common theme.
Exactly!! He's like the Billy Mays of ARX, only not quite as dead...
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Your point is as we all kmow the rsult. Your posts are repetitive and tiring..
No, my posts cover a wide range of topics. If you want repetitive and tiring, click here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=userposts&id=193
You may notice a common theme.
Exactly!! He's like the Billy Mays of ARX, only not quite as dead...
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
Could you pour it out if you wanted to? And for winter service, we should be using 5W-30 or 0W-30 anyways.
I'll say this much, all the fanboy'ism about ARX has soured me onto that product.
The fact is that a good synthetic oil will have a decent amount of cleaning power through its detergents and ability to hold sludge (that is softened by heat/mechanical action/solvent effects) in suspension.
Light penentrating oils like MMO/Seafoam etc may help with the solvent effects that enhance sludge removal.
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
And with a pour point of -65F, I'm pretty sure M1 10W-30HM is mostly Group IV/V...
I put a quart of M1 10W-30 HM in my freezer at around 0F for 3 days. It was quite thick and slow to move in the bottle.
Could you pour it out if you wanted to? And for winter service, we should be using 5W-30 or 0W-30 anyways.
I'll say this much, all the fanboy'ism about ARX has soured me onto that product.
The fact is that a good synthetic oil will have a decent amount of cleaning power through its detergents and ability to hold sludge (that is softened by heat/mechanical action/solvent effects) in suspension.
Light penentrating oils like MMO/Seafoam etc may help with the solvent effects that enhance sludge removal.
Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
I'll say this much, all the fanboy'ism about ARX has soured me onto that product.
I could say the same thing about amsoil, but I won't. I understand both sides of the autorx debate b/c when I use a product and get excellent results I am eager to let other people know about it. I also know how it feels to be disappointed by a purchase and feel like I wasted my money. I am currently giving autorx a try and as I see it there is nothing to lose w/ the money back guarantee. Granted I will probably not seek a refund if it doesn't have the desired effect, but it is an option if you feel cheated out of your hard earned money.
I'll say this much, all the fanboy'ism about ARX has soured me onto that product.
I could say the same thing about amsoil, but I won't. I understand both sides of the autorx debate b/c when I use a product and get excellent results I am eager to let other people know about it. I also know how it feels to be disappointed by a purchase and feel like I wasted my money. I am currently giving autorx a try and as I see it there is nothing to lose w/ the money back guarantee. Granted I will probably not seek a refund if it doesn't have the desired effect, but it is an option if you feel cheated out of your hard earned money.
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