Mobil 1 Annual Protection 0W20, 5,400miles, Honda HR-V 1.8L

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Wear numbers look fine. Silicon and fuel dilution are of course a concern but we don't know if that's common for this particular engine (low tension rings?) in combination with your operating conditions. Engine is fully broken in at 46k miles.
 
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Stay with a 20 grade given the short trips the oil temp and thus the sump will remain very viscous - likely twice as thick as a hot 50 grade..

Stop excessive warmup. Check you PCV.

Looks like a Hybrid is in order for the next car so you can run on battery power for the short trips.

Are you sure this engine is not DI?
 
Concur with raising viscosity, as in use Mobil1 0w30 (instead of 0w20) to counter the fuel dilution. Keeping the viscosity in the right hot range should help engine wear. Thinner oil begins to affect wear some.
I would run M1 AFE 0w30 here for 6,000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first, in this application, as it gets very cold where this car is.
Good oil filter choice already, yet a Fram Ultra is slightly better here.
 
Wear numbers are great. I would not freak out about the fuel dilution. The intake seals should be checked, to include the vacuum operated devices. However, even with the silicon a bit high, the wear is great.

I would keep up the extended OCI and do another oil analysis or two for comfort if you want, but it seems you are doing fine to me.
 
Ok, the wear numbers are outstanding. That means the oil is doing its job, whether diluted or not. I'd say you should keep doing what you are doing. If the price of that oil bugs you then go to Mobil 1 EP. It seems pretty close in performance and you can still do an extended OCI. The TBN isn't a big deal because we all know its degradation isn't linear. I've seen lots of UOA's with Mobil 1 oils that show quick degradation of TBN and then they flatten out and go the distance. I'd try 8k miles next time on 0w20 M1 AP or EP and see what you get. Again, whatever is going on, that oil is protecting your engine from wear and it appears to be stout enough to handle high fuel dilution.
 
I'd leave the oil weigh alone and change the oil more often with a lesser priced synthetic.

You could try V-Power premium but the price difference doesn't make sense over just changing the oil more frequently IMO.
 
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Originally Posted by IndyFan
Ok, the wear numbers are outstanding.
Originally Posted by Oily_Thing
Wear numbers are great.

No. Universal Average for that engine is around 1 ppm per 1,000 miles, like many other Honda & Toyota engines.
Remember every engine has a different signature average. This one was way higher than average. Not super bad, yet certainly not "outstanding" or "great".
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by IndyFan
Ok, the wear numbers are outstanding.
Originally Posted by Oily_Thing
Wear numbers are great.

No. Universal Average for that engine is around 1 ppm per 1,000 miles, like many other Honda & Toyota engines.
Remember every engine has a different signature average. This one was way higher than average. Not super bad, yet certainly not "outstanding" or "great".


Maybe if looking at older Honda and Toyota engines, but newer ones are frequently showing higher than 8ppm in 5k to 6k intervals. Anyway, try something different and see what happens. I think the oil is doing what it was intended to do and this is a driving profile that is going to be hard on oil, whatever is used. I also don't know what will be gained by shortening the interval. My bet is that the oil gets diluted with fuel pretty quickly with this driving profile, and won't show much difference even at 3k.
 
Originally Posted by oil_film_movies
Originally Posted by IndyFan
Ok, the wear numbers are outstanding.
Originally Posted by Oily_Thing
Wear numbers are great.

No. Universal Average for that engine is around 1 ppm per 1,000 miles, like many other Honda & Toyota engines.
Remember every engine has a different signature average. This one was way higher than average. Not super bad, yet certainly not "outstanding" or "great".


This is just one UOA, one data point from one lab. Without a trend, these numbers aren't very meaningful, other than to note that they're low.

The one thing that interests me the most is the low TBN. TBN depletion is not linear, as was mentioned; however, there is a lower limit where one would consider the oil depleted, irrespective of the other properties of the oil. What do you guys have as your personal limit? I can't remember if it's recommended not to go below 2 or 1, and I can't remember whether the recommendation is lab-specific. ~2 mg KOH/g seems like a good lower limit to me.

Also, the OP says he does mostly short-trips (though he's weirdly vague about his driving profile for some reason), but the average monthly mileage is > 1,000 miles. He has got to be driving longer trips at times, which is helpful overall. It may be that this engine dilutes quickly, negating the OP's weekly/monthly??? longer trips.

I would stick with 0W-20, but switch to one of the previously-mentioned, cheaper synthetics. Things are going to be warming up soon, meaning a 6k/6mo OCI will likely be fine; however, it might be worthwhile to shorten next winter's interval to 3-4k and see how things go, so long as your driving habits don't become even worse than they are now.

Can you be more specific about your driving habits, OP?
 
The op included a link to his previous uoa and fuel was an issue then as well, during warmer months.
Some of you are telling him to extend his oci while he's getting over 4% fuel dilution. I think your steering the guy off a cliff.
He needs to probably reduce his oci a bit to around 4k and just use supertech or some less expensive synthetic. Should still will work out to be less or equal $$ as using AP for 8k.
I do agree with going up to a 5w30
 
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What I like about this report is despite the 4.8% fuel dilution, wear was very good and the viscosity stable. The issue is the TBN, which I don't have an answer for. Theoretically, the TBN could remain at 2+ for another 5k miles.

This was an answer I received when asking Mobil about TBN back when they went to API SN in 2012 with a lower SA level of .8, which lowered the TBN from 12 to now 8-9.

"As for TBN retention, it is only a single parameter that provides an indication of the used oil condition. A reduction in TBN is an indication that the overbased detergent is doing its job by neutralizing acids that form as a result of combustion. TBN should be used in combination with other used oil parameters such as oxidation, nitration, TAN (Total Acid Number), ICP metals, D4684 MRV viscosity, and D445 kinematic viscosity to determine the overall condition of the used oil.

Finally, in our experience in severe-service Las Vegas field testing, Mobil 1 engine oil TBN levels typically do not drop below 2 for vehicles with 15,000 mile oil drain intervals. Furthermore, it is our experience that those oils tend not to drop any lower when we continue to 20,000 mile oil drains."
 
First and foremost, I'd like to thank every one of you for posting both here and on other threads as the replies are appreciated. I've learned so much from this forum over the past few years.

Regarding the suggestions to lower the OCI, where's the fun in that? I don't mind paying for the UOAs to see how far the oil can be pushed.

The car got a new oil change today. I'll make sure to stick with Polaris Labs from here on out so the results can be better compared.

Since M1 AP isn't sold in Canada and I didn't feel like driving 45 mins to buy some across the border at full price, I picked up a jug of 0w-20 PPU and a Fram Ultra filter.

Why PPU and not the other excellent, more reasonably priced oils that you kind folk suggested? It was on sale and after the Pennzoil rebate, 5 quarts came out to $17USD.

In the future, I may check out other viscosities to see what differences they may bring.

Originally Posted by spasm3
Whats the length of your average trip?


The most frequent trips are between 1-7 miles each way. The shortest trips is taking my dog to nearby parks, multiple times a day even if the distance is walkable. I'm stuck driving as they salt the roads and sidewalks like there's no tomorrow and the salt corrodes her paws.

A few times a month I'll drive 50-150 miles each way.

Originally Posted by Char Baby
I am assuming that you are in Canada(Ca) and not California(CA)
Looking at the lab sheet, it seems as though you are doing more idling and short trips.


I don't let the car warm up longer than it takes to brush off the snow. BITOG taught me that it's not good to idle when the oil is cold. It's better to let the car warm up while driving with a light throttle.

I do idle a lot when picking up my significant other. Oil should be warm by then though.

Yep, I'm in Canada. Didn't realize there was a difference with the two abbreviations so thanks for the explanation. Will fix it on my profile.

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite

Stop excessive warmup.

Looks like a Hybrid is in order for the next car so you can run on battery power for the short trips.

Are you sure this engine is not DI?


I can't find any evidence online that it's direct injection. 2016 Honda HR-V. It's a 1.8-litre SOHC i-VTEC I4 engine. Engine model# R18Z9

I agree about the hybrid suggestion but our newest government got rid of incentives and for now, they're too expensive.

Originally Posted by buster
What I like about this report is despite the 4.8% fuel dilution, wear was very good and the viscosity stable. The issue is the TBN, which I don't have an answer for. Theoretically, the TBN could remain at 2+ for another 5k miles.



I agree with all of your statements. It's interesting you mention the TBN could remain at 2+ because the previous report from ALS labs, the TBN was 2.3 which is pretty close. This was at 9800 miles.

Seems like winter driving is more severe on the oil.

Next step is to check the PCV and air intakes. Will keep y'all updated.
 
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Originally Posted by Char Baby

My wife lets the car warm up for 10 minutes and then drive 5 miles, 4X/day. This type of driving will show lots of fuel dilution.


I think you hit it on the nail. If ever you got her a UOA (how romantic..), I'd be curious to see if the numbers are as high - if it's also a non-DI type engine.
 
Numbers won't be as bad next time, we're going into warmer weather. Isn't Honda using some stupidly aggressive fueling on cold start to warm the cats up?
 
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