Mobil 1 AFE 0w30, 6916 miles, Chrysler 2.4

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This one doesn't make me as happy as my daughter's Jeep 4.0 analysis did, but then I didn't really expect it too. I'm OK with it, just not thrilled. Here's why:

For one thing, forget Blackstone's raving about 'adding 3k miles and the engine didn't notice...' After the first run I put on a new oil filter (a PureOne of the larger size spec'd for turbo 2.4 engines in place of the teacup-sized Wix spec'd for the N/A 2.4 that I used on the first half of the run). That filter swap necessitated a quart of make-up oil, plus the 2.4's notorious PCV consumption (hopefully fixed now by my PCV trap) added ANOTHER quart, plus the half quart on the first run... so this is an analysis with 2.5 make-up quarts on a slightly less than 5 quart fill capacity over a ~7k mile run (note that the TBN and several additives went UP as a result).

So there are lots of caveats on this run, and all of them would make it look worse if they weren't there.

That said, the only thing that genuinely bothers me is the elevated Si... but then everything I've sent in shows some degree of elevated Si though the PT is the worst. Its really not hammering the wear metals, though. I *suspect* the PT is particularly bad because of the other half of the poor PCV system- the make-up air is only filtered by a foam pad in the air box, it does NOT come from the "clean" side of the engine air filter IIRC. I'll have to see if I can re-plumb that without causing more trouble than I fix, or maybe I'll find/concoct an in-line filter I can use on the make-up side.

So in a nutshell- I'm very happy with the little 2.4 engine (internally anyway- not so happy with ancillary systems like PCV), and I think M1 0w30 AFE is good enough for my wife's driving. But if I can get the make-up oil down with the PCV trap, its not going to be all that great as an extended-drain oil... and its really not meant for that. If the consumption doesn't drop, then I might try 8k miles and count on the make-up oil to keep things in the green.



PTOil_12_09.jpg
 
As you said with the added oil not much can be determined by this UOA. I Have no doubt this oil will go 10,000 miles. No problems I see.
 
Am I missing something or did you only put 3499 miles on this car(47,684-44,185)? You are adding a quart of make up every 2700 miles - acceptable, but that would be my biggest disappointment at this stage. If you put 6900 miles on it in 3 months time, it does not surprise me that you could go longer.
 
I note that if your engine takes 5 qts and you add 1 quart 2.5 times, then you have already replaced 42% of the oil (1-.8x.8x.9)
 
Originally Posted By: Burt
Am I missing something or did you only put 3499 miles on this car(47,684-44,185)? You are adding a quart of make up every 2700 miles - acceptable, but that would be my biggest disappointment at this stage. If you put 6900 miles on it in 3 months time, it does not surprise me that you could go longer.


The previous analysis was mid-run. This is all one OCI, but there's a lot of make-up oil because of the filter change at mid-run and the PCV system's oil appetite.
 
Is this PCV-related oil consumption something that was only present in older PT Cruisers? Or is it prevalent even in newer ones? My dad has an '08 with the 2.4 and his never burns anything. Just curious, because I want to know if I should keep an eye on it.
 
Results look pretty good, but I wouldn't like that consumption at all on such a young engine, like you've said.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Is this PCV-related oil consumption something that was only present in older PT Cruisers? Or is it prevalent even in newer ones? My dad has an '08 with the 2.4 and his never burns anything. Just curious, because I want to know if I should keep an eye on it.


Sorry I didn't answer this before the thread slipped down a couple of pages...

Two points: 1) I don't know if the PCV system was altered between 05 and 08, 2) I'm not absolutely sure that all this engines' consumption is PCV-related yet (although seeing 3-4 drops go into my PCV oil trap in 10 minutes of operation would suggest that it could account for quite a lot over many hours of operation!) I've only owned it for about 15k miles so far, it was bought used and with a largely unknown history. Well cared for externally, but the first few oil changes were pretty dark and the first UOA looked like some clean-up was ongoing, so it may not have gotten the best oil-related care in the world.
 
I've read a few articles about consumption issues like this. I think you just have "one of those engines" that burn oil. It could be a bad valve stem seal but is probably poor sealing rings. Chrysler and Mitsubishi seem to have more than their share of random oil burners.

I would recommend 2 things to try and improve this problem. First is to add Seafoam to the oil as recommended, and add Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. Both of these are good at removing deposits. Dont pay any attention to the wacky names, they are both legendary for their abilities. They can also be placed in both or either locations.
 
This is M1 can we drop the silly AMsoil like usage of three letter product codes and just call this M1 0W30.....I checked and M1 does not offer multiple 0W30 products with in North America so the AFE is not only redundant as can be but just silly! Tehy do not offer a High Mileage 0W30 or a plain 0W30 or a Extended Performance 0W30 so again M1 0W30 is all that we need. Personally I always hated AMsoils alphabet soup.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
This is M1 can we drop the silly AMsoil like usage of three letter product codes and just call this M1 0W30.....I checked and M1 does not offer multiple 0W30 products with in North America so the AFE is not only redundant as can be but just silly! Tehy do not offer a High Mileage 0W30 or a plain 0W30 or a Extended Performance 0W30 so again M1 0W30 is all that we need. Personally I always hated AMsoils alphabet soup.


Mobil 1 does indeed offer 2 very different 0W-30's.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Racing_0W-30.aspx

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx
 
UOA aside.. The 2.4 will probably run forever anyways, its one of the most reliable engines in the last decade and longer to be used by Chrysler. I know several people with 2.4 Stratus (and Cirrus here in Canada) and none of them are displeased with those cars.
 
Originally Posted By: HighViscosity
I've read a few articles about consumption issues like this. I think you just have "one of those engines" that burn oil. It could be a bad valve stem seal but is probably poor sealing rings. Chrysler and Mitsubishi seem to have more than their share of random oil burners.

I would recommend 2 things to try and improve this problem. First is to add Seafoam to the oil as recommended, and add Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel. Both of these are good at removing deposits. Dont pay any attention to the wacky names, they are both legendary for their abilities. They can also be placed in both or either locations.



One thing at a time, scientific method applies to engine diagnosis. I intend to give the PCV oil trap a chance to prove/disprove the PCV consumption before I do anything else. And frankly when I do anything it won't be put goo in the crankcase. I have nothing against SeaFoam as a penetrating oil to loosen rusty bolts, but it will NEVER go through my engine intake or into the crankcase. MMO in the fuel is a different matter, but I'm a long way from that point. 1 quart/3000 miles (remember, almost 1 quart of the 2.5 used was due to a filter change mid run) is acceptably low oil consumption for any engine. Engines like my Jeep that use a cup or less in 6k miles are more the exception than the rule.
 
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
UOA aside.. The 2.4 will probably run forever anyways, its one of the most reliable engines in the last decade and longer to be used by Chrysler. I know several people with 2.4 Stratus (and Cirrus here in Canada) and none of them are displeased with those cars.


The 2.4 is a pretty good little engine- a bit archaic for today with no VVT or other such goodies. Although the 2.0/2.4 was technically a new engine family when it came out, it owes a lot more of its basic architecture to the old Bill Weertman-designed 2.2 and 2.5 than most people realize. The rotating assembly and block key dimensions (deck height, bore spacing, etc.) are all basically the same as the original 2.2. Just a much better-breathing head and elimination of the accessory shaft to drive the (no longer used) distributor, moved the oil pump to the nose of the crank, and other modernizations.
 
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