Mobil 1 15 50w Blackstone Report Bearings Pounded

[porschepilot]

Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
PorschePilot - As someone else has said, i think you'll see alot more benefit to doing maybe 2-3 flushes of a good 10w40 dino oil for maybe 1000-2000 miles each run. You've got all sorts of contaminants in that oil that you need to get out, and the best way is some good oil changes with new filters.

Then try on the 15w50 again. Great oil choice for a hot environment with heavy towing on a gasoline engine.



Is it ok to flush with the M1. I did my first after the engine work with dino then went to M1 and now M1 again. Blackstone said to send in the oil again at 2k? Should I flush it again and wait 2k more before sending it in?

 

[ZZman]

Don't waste syn oil for a flush. Go to Walmart an buy a jug of something like QS, Pennzoil or MobilClean 5000 dino and do a short flush change.

 

[gomes512]

Originally Posted By: porschepilot
Well the problem is the sending unit. Mine was replaced so I get perfect readings. Senders go bad after time since they are under load for thousands of hours mine went at 200k.


Even so, those sending units are notoriously bad.

Hopefully the metals in your magnum will trend down, the 15w-50 is a good choice for that engine. One of the fleet vans here has 205K on the clock running 15w-50 summer and 5w-40 winter.

 

[porschepilot]

Originally Posted By: gomes512
Originally Posted By: porschepilot
Well the problem is the sending unit. Mine was replaced so I get perfect readings. Senders go bad after time since they are under load for thousands of hours mine went at 200k.


Even so, those sending units are notoriously bad.

Hopefully the metals in your magnum will trend down, the 15w-50 is a good choice for that engine. One of the fleet vans here has 205K on the clock running 15w-50 summer and 5w-40 winter.


You know what though better the sending unit then some other more major notorious problem I think. That [censored] motor pulls hard and it has all the power like it only had 50k miles. Here is Los Angles it gets so hot never freezes so I think 15w50 is ok to run year round don't you think? I think if the miles were less then I would runner thinner oil but im sure the bearings have broken in by now and its just starting to wear in hehehe.

 

[ZZman]

Many people here have run those oils with no issues.

 

[Jim Allen]

Here's an idea porschepilot; try running some 15W40 HEDO dino oil through it for flush. It's very hi detergent, more robust that any gas engine oil and not prohibitively expensive. You could go Delo 400, Rotella-T, Mobil, whatever you can get for the leastest... they are all good HDEOs.

 

[JoeFromPA]

The point of switching back to a cheap oil is to save you money. There's no harm in flipping back and forth from syn to dino to syn. The goal is that you have [censored] in your engine and short of opening the engine up and scrubbing it clean, the best bet is to run oil through it (thereby getting the gunk into the oil) and then drain the oil. Rinse and repeat.

At least several times. THEN using a higher-cost quality synthetic oil.

If you are worried about a 10w40 dino breaking down under the heat and load, then find a 20w50 dino. It's totally appropriate for your ambient temperature and driving conditions.

Joe

 

[JohnBrowning]

First I think it is chemical what we are seeing. Water and coolant do not mix nice with oil and they always do a number on the bearings. I have had great results when coolant and water have made it into engines in the past. I found that if I took a 15W40 any brand will do and in place of 1 quart I added 1 quart of MMO so if you vehicle holds 5 quarts that would be 4 quarts of 15W40 like Rotella,Delvac etc....and 1 quart of MMO not pint but quart. Put a new but cheap oil filter on it and run it like this for about 1500 miles. Then drop and go back to your old oil.The MMO will act like a very mild solvent and get all the junk left behind from the coolant. The reason I use a 15W40 is because the 1 quart of MMO is going to think what ever oil you have in their so it best to start with a thicker oil. THe 15W40 diesel oil also has more dispersants and detergents and anti wear additives! So anything that the MMO disolves will be captured by the oils additives and then caught int he filter if large enough.

I have also had great results doing flush's with Isopro Alch.! SO you could add two pints of Seafoam to a chap oil like 15W40 again and let the engine fast idle for 30-40 minutes. When you drain the oil if their is any water or coolant still in their it should be visable as it should be in emulsion witht he oil now because of the Isoprop. Alch.! When flushing to get coolant and such out after working on a vechile I find it often takes double the recomended amount of flushing agent. The key though is too use new oil and thicker oil. B12 Chemtool also works very well in fact it works better then Seafom for most things.

When I had to replace the upper and lower manifold on my wifes Buick I used two cans of B12 CHemtool and 4.5 quarts of 10W40 Chevron Supreme. I installed a new filter and ran it for 30 minutes at fast idle. Her oil cam out blacker then it has ever been and had green traces in it and all kinds of strange looking stuff.

I do not think that M1 15W50 was the reason for the lead spike. I am confident it was the coolant in the oil!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Coolant destroys journal bearings. Prob a lot of nasties in there. Flush flush.