Mobil 1 0w20 in my compressor?

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I've got a cheap "3hp" (from a 120v outlet
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) oiled air compressor from Harbor Freight. Basically the same pump they use on everything.

I also bought the 3 year no questions asked extended warranty. ($16) I've already taken one compressor back that broke, and they came out and unloaded my old one...and then loaded a brand new one with no trouble. My warranty even started over again. The way the salesman explained the warranty to me when I bought it, was "basically even if it's just worn out you can bring it back and we'll replace it", so that's exactly what I plan on doing. At the end of my 3 years, I'll be back for another compressor. (if this one lasts that long)

Anyway....the manual calls for plain old 30w. I wouldn't use that if you paid me. Right now it has conventional 10w30 in it, and I'm considering changing to Mobil 1 0w20. Generally 20w oils are a big turn off for me. BUT, this compressor sees a lot of cold starts (90% of it's use) and I'm thinking maybe the 20w would help in the power department with the overloaded 120v motor? In my other non warranted chinese compressor I use 5w30 synthetic and noticed a drop in power consumption and temperature over whatever the factory fill was.

My concern is that I'd have excess wear with a 20w, but, then again that doesn't really matter if I'm not going to keep it...

I say Mobil 1 because it's the only 0w I can find, and, it's the only motor oil brand I've seen specifically recommended in compressor manuals...
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
In OR, I don't see temps requiring less than 10w30.

Yeah, but usually the compressor is dead cold - 50 degrees if that, I turn it on, let it fill up, and that's it for the day, 90% of the time. So it doesn't really get to "operating temperature" very often.

Originally Posted By: onion
Don't they make a 0W30?

They do, but I've yet to see a single bottle on a shelf.
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The oil selection around here sucks, and I think most 0w are non existant due to our mild weather.
 
Use what the mfg. recommends, there is more than likely a reason he specs. 30 weight just as auto mfg,s spec a weight for their vehicles. More than likely it also specs a non-detergent.
 
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Use what the mfg. recommends, there is more than likely a reason he specs. 30 weight just as auto mfg,s spec a weight for their vehicles. More than likely it also specs a non-detergent.


This is a quart 30w oil here, so we'll fill it up with that!" I can assure you they did not go through any extensive testing to "spec" any kind of oil. The manual says straight 30 simply because that's generic "compressor oil", and that's the only kind they sell at Harbor Freight next to the compressors.

Like I said I totally disregard the manual and use 10w30 now, because I think that provides better protection and the people writing the manual know little to nothing about oil. The only reason I bothered to ask is because 20w tends to scare me a little. It's kind of like the mechanics who are suddenly "oil experts" just because they are mechanics.

Furthermore this thread is about using an unsual lubricant for an unusual application, in case you didn't actually read it. I could try melted butter if I want to, if it breaks, I'll just go get another new one.
 
Me too. Same HFT compressor. I think these things would run fine on bar/chain oil. I know my garage lights dim on an extreme cold start. A 0w20 (or any $ synthetic) would be overkill for such a cheap compressor, but ideal for cold weather starts

Joel
 
I use 0W30 in mine, and my brother just switched his over to 0W30 as well. On two very cold mornings he tripped the circuit breaker with the straight 30 grade oil. So far so good with 0w30.
 
Furthermore this thread is about using an unsual lubricant for an unusual application, in case you didn't actually read it. I could try melted butter if I want to, if it breaks, I'll just go get another new one.


Touchy today aren't we. Use whatever you want, you asked for advice, I gave you my advice.

Totally disregarding the manuals is sure the right way to go about things, yes sir, makes sense to me!

Just got off the phone with our local Campbel Hausfeld air compressor service center and they recommend using a 30 weight Non Detergent oil in all compressors U.S. made and imported. Reason being use of a multi weight oil such as 10w30, 5w/whatever causes carbon on the piston head and compressor chamber. Now I realize the service center folks are unknowing as to just what to use in their products, so you may use whatever you wish.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: jcwit


Just got off the phone with our local Campbel Hausfeld air compressor service center and they recommend using a 30 weight Non Detergent oil in all compressors U.S. made and imported. Reason being use of a multi weight oil such as 10w30, 5w/whatever causes carbon on the piston head and compressor chamber. Now I realize the service center folks are unknowing as to just what to use in their products, so you may use whatever you wish.

I understand the reason for non-det oil. I fail to see any reason why a multigrade oil would cause carbon on the "piston head". First, there shouldn't be any oil getting to the "piston head" and secondly, how do you get oil to become carbon without burning or combustion?
 
Id rather move from an ISO 100 to an ISO 68 or 46, but use a compressor oil, rather than use something else that is unknown.
 
Originally Posted By: RRich
Originally Posted By: jcwit


Just got off the phone with our local Campbel Hausfeld air compressor service center and they recommend using a 30 weight Non Detergent oil in all compressors U.S. made and imported. Reason being use of a multi weight oil such as 10w30, 5w/whatever causes carbon on the piston head and compressor chamber. Now I realize the service center folks are unknowing as to just what to use in their products, so you may use whatever you wish.

I understand the reason for non-det oil. I fail to see any reason why a multigrade oil would cause carbon on the "piston head". First, there shouldn't be any oil getting to the "piston head" and secondly, how do you get oil to become carbon without burning or combustion?


I don't know either, just relayed what the factory trained technician told me. Altho common sense tells me it might be possible that heat caused by compression could cause a carbon build-up, its possible I would think.
 
My small compressor (not the same as yours) has been running on Mobil 1 0w40 since new, which was three years ago now. I am happy with the results thus far.
 
My 7HP Quincy compressor manual states straight weight due to possible water introduction into the lube. ND because over time and oil changes the ad-pak tends to accumulate at the bottom of the tank. Additives like moly tend to accumulate on the reed valves as well. I use Amsoil air compressor oil with great results. This oil is specifically engineered for air compressors. It is ISO 46 SAE20. I use it in my cheapo Craftsman pancake compressor as well. I am not a huge Amsoil fan but I love this oil and it's all I use in my compressors. The Quincy 7HP has over 1000 hours on it and runs great. For $10 a quart I can afford to use the best.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/pci.aspx
 
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