Anyone ever tried MMO through the PCV valve? I had a half quart of MMO left, so I poured about 8 ounces into a shallow glass and ran it through the PCV valve on my Accord. I just held the PCV valve down into the glass and let it draw the stuff in. The engine wasn't totally up to full operating temperature, but it was close. The engine never skipped a beat while it was sucking up the MMO, as I said I held the PCV valve down into the glass the entire time. I let it sit for 8 minutes then went and started it up again. Holy mother of (insert deity name here), did it ever blow smoke! It blew huge coulds of white smoke for 5 or 6 minutes, and blue smoke for another 10. The blue smoke worried me, it was blowing the blue smoke quite heavily for a while. I thought I'd screwed something up and I was quite worried. I just drove the car around with the engine at 4000 rpm for about 15 minutes and it cleared up. Anyone ever ran MMO like this before? Is it as effective at decarbonizing as Seafoam when used like this? DO you think it helped anything on my high mileage engine by doing this? If it does turn out to be effective by using this method, I just might do it again sometime. A quart bottle of MMO goes for $7.99 at Canadian Tire while a can of Seafoam half that size is over 13 bucks at Carquest.
MMO through PCV valve?
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8 oz. in that short a time is a lot. More a waiste of MMO than anything. The smoke was from the oil & the removed carbon. As you stated, it had a similar effect to Seafoam. Those of us adding MMO through the intake are doing it via an inverse oiler slowly & continuosly. Since installing the inverse oiler on my cars, the intake mainfolds & throttle bodies have been spotless (carbon free). Am sure that the top end of the engines are as clean. Don't need Seafoam anymore which is kinda sad 'cuz I miss ******* off the neighbors with the Seafoam cloud pouring out of the exhaust.
It's a waist because dumping 8 oz. of MMO into the intake over say a ten minute period will clean far less than administering the MMO through the intake for the period of time it takes to drive 500 miles or so. This is what is meant by adding the MMO via an inverse oiler. I generally use around 8oz. of MMO per 500 miles or so. Because it is not a strong solvent like Seafoam, it is much better to let it clean over a longer period of time. The 500 mile cleaning is far more effective than the 10 minute cleaning would have been. Further, the lubrication that the top end of the motor gets from the MMO is an added benefit.
One could also choose to turn the inverse oiler off if MMO was only wanted say for 500 miles every 3 or 4,000 miles. Whatever is wanted. I choose to run mine continuously.
One could also choose to turn the inverse oiler off if MMO was only wanted say for 500 miles every 3 or 4,000 miles. Whatever is wanted. I choose to run mine continuously.
If people recommend using half or 1/4 a can of Seafoam through your intake or vacuum line quickly, then why is it a waste to use MMO in a similar fashion? Afterall, I doubt MMO is as strong a solvent or whatever as Seafoam and it would probably take more to have the same effectiveness as Seafoam.
Doing it the way I did it would have had some effect at least, wouldn't it? I assumed by the clounds of white smoke that poured from my tailpipe that it was doing something.
I am also a fan of the inverse oiler, a slow steady clean. I use mine all the time, and use about 1/4 every 800-1000 miles, depends on how the vehicle is driven.
Adding it thru the PCV hose is OK I guess, my only suggestion would be to let it sit not running for about 30 minutes to let the chemicals work a little longer. Adding it to your gas after the PCV treatment will help too.
When adding it thru a vacuum hose just make sure you don't hydro-lock the engine.
Adding it thru the PCV hose is OK I guess, my only suggestion would be to let it sit not running for about 30 minutes to let the chemicals work a little longer. Adding it to your gas after the PCV treatment will help too.
When adding it thru a vacuum hose just make sure you don't hydro-lock the engine.
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55, rapid infusion does a decent job of cleaning things up. The side effects are usually more than most can endure.
I've done it with quite a few agents.
Yes, you did something substantial. It is, however, more economical and practical to just add whatever amount to your gas tank. I've put up to 32oz in a 20 gallon tank ...with nothing but good results and a stellar emissions report.
Next time ..take your time and just add it when you fill up. That way you can get the injectors too.
I've done it with quite a few agents.
Yes, you did something substantial. It is, however, more economical and practical to just add whatever amount to your gas tank. I've put up to 32oz in a 20 gallon tank ...with nothing but good results and a stellar emissions report.
Next time ..take your time and just add it when you fill up. That way you can get the injectors too.
You could also consider piston soaks. Your 4 cylinders would work perfectly with 8 oz.
Take the spark plugs out, pour the MMO in, leave it overnight, put a rag over the plug holes, crank the car over so it spits out most of the MMO (observe if any cylinders "drank" it past the rings) put plugs back in fire it up and enjoy the smoke show.
This'll clean carbon off your piston crowns, clear out the ring packs, and might even help your valves a little.
Take the spark plugs out, pour the MMO in, leave it overnight, put a rag over the plug holes, crank the car over so it spits out most of the MMO (observe if any cylinders "drank" it past the rings) put plugs back in fire it up and enjoy the smoke show.
This'll clean carbon off your piston crowns, clear out the ring packs, and might even help your valves a little.
As stated above, there was cleaning done by your method. Who knows how much. My post was about if one chooses MMO for top end cleaning, a better method is over extended periods via an inverse oiler. IMHO, an inverse oiler is the best method for the application of MMO. You can use the pull the plugs, let it sit for 30 minutes, or add to gasoline methods. Although, the plugs & gasoline method do not take care of the throttle body or intake. My contention is why let the carbon build up in the first place when an inverse oiler keeps it gone & lubricates continually.
...a couple of quarts of cheap ATF!!
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That too on at least one application ..then followed up with just MMO (or was it the other way around
)
I'm a fan of MMO and will recommend it when added to gas/oil or when used in a slow drip inverse application.
MMO, IMHO, is TOO thick to use as a vacuum-type cleaner. You are better off using solvent---B12/Seafoam/Kerosene/biodiesel/any FI distillate type cleaners/......or water for vacuum drawn cleaning.
There are also other products what will work better in thru sparkplug overnight "soak" situation.
MMO, IMHO, is TOO thick to use as a vacuum-type cleaner. You are better off using solvent---B12/Seafoam/Kerosene/biodiesel/any FI distillate type cleaners/......or water for vacuum drawn cleaning.
There are also other products what will work better in thru sparkplug overnight "soak" situation.
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