MMO says you can use either type of oil with MMO but I believe the OCI must be less than 3,000 miles - is this correct ? If so , probably no sense in using with synthetic if you are limited to MMO only being effective up to 3,000 miles . Comments ?
MMO Short Run - Synthetic or Conventional ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Agree with the conventional - but disagree on using the MMO. Why? AFA cleaning ability: volk06 Oh come on! Dont see why PYB has the most cleaning ability. Show me the study. You guys are suckers for ad copy!
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Agree with the conventional - but disagree on using the MMO. Why? AFA cleaning ability: volk06 Oh come on! Dont see why PYB has the most cleaning ability. Show me the study. You guys are suckers for ad copy!
Do we have a direct study compared to other conventionals, no, but we do know that it has very good cleaning abilities based on user results. I wasn't basing this off of an ad, but from my past experiences with varnish and dirty engines.
Don't call me a sucker for using what has worked the best for me and my applications.
Agree with the conventional - but disagree on using the MMO. Why? AFA cleaning ability: volk06 Oh come on! Dont see why PYB has the most cleaning ability. Show me the study. You guys are suckers for ad copy!
Do we have a direct study compared to other conventionals, no, but we do know that it has very good cleaning abilities based on user results. I wasn't basing this off of an ad, but from my past experiences with varnish and dirty engines.
Don't call me a sucker for using what has worked the best for me and my applications.
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Originally Posted By: volk06
Use the cheapest conventional you can find. If your looking for the maximum cleaning ability use PYB.
Why not Pennzoil Ultra or Pennzoil Platinum for maximum cleaning ability.
I do not see PYB doing a better than PP or PU in cleaning up an engine.
Use the cheapest conventional you can find. If your looking for the maximum cleaning ability use PYB.
Why not Pennzoil Ultra or Pennzoil Platinum for maximum cleaning ability.
I do not see PYB doing a better than PP or PU in cleaning up an engine.
Ok, just to curb the matter I know where volk is coming from. ...and the virgin analysis shows compared to other conventional oils that it indeed has a very high calcium/boron add pack that makes it look more like an extended drain syn, just with lower quality basestock/lower starting TBN.
If you want maximum cleaning, you could then go to Kreen as far as additives...or a boutique oil. Any full syn oil would do a good job, but Ultra/Amsoil currently still have the 'proven will clean' add packs with high calcium/boron etc...even Red Line would probably help to clean over time, depends on 'what' needs to be cleaned, though.
I agree with PYB + MMO 20%, top off with more PYB if the car has consumption.
If you want maximum cleaning, you could then go to Kreen as far as additives...or a boutique oil. Any full syn oil would do a good job, but Ultra/Amsoil currently still have the 'proven will clean' add packs with high calcium/boron etc...even Red Line would probably help to clean over time, depends on 'what' needs to be cleaned, though.
I agree with PYB + MMO 20%, top off with more PYB if the car has consumption.
blend
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PYB and MMO make a great combo. IMO winter is the best time to clean up an engine with MMO. The "thinner oil" resulting from the addition or MMO aids in cold starts, a plus if you live in a cold climate. Yea the naysayers will say use a thinner oil if you're worried about cold starts, the problem is there is no oil that cleans as well as oil treated with Kreen or MMO. Run PYB with MMO for 3000 miles then change it out along with the filter. You'll be fine with that combo, in fact I've probably used that combo more than any other combo with MMO.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
PYB and MMO make a great combo. IMO winter is the best time to clean up an engine with MMO. The "thinner oil" resulting from the addition or MMO aids in cold starts, a plus if you live in a cold climate. Yea the naysayers will say use a thinner oil if you're worried about cold starts, the problem is there is no oil that cleans as well as oil treated with Kreen or MMO. Run PYB with MMO for 3000 miles then change it out along with the filter. You'll be fine with that combo, in fact I've probably used that combo more than any other combo with MMO.
DITTO
PYB and MMO make a great combo. IMO winter is the best time to clean up an engine with MMO. The "thinner oil" resulting from the addition or MMO aids in cold starts, a plus if you live in a cold climate. Yea the naysayers will say use a thinner oil if you're worried about cold starts, the problem is there is no oil that cleans as well as oil treated with Kreen or MMO. Run PYB with MMO for 3000 miles then change it out along with the filter. You'll be fine with that combo, in fact I've probably used that combo more than any other combo with MMO.
DITTO
...and to add to dp's post: If you get things moving or just want more immediate results, Kreen seems to be a real winner but it does cost a good bit more than MMO. $30 more for 1 quart after shipping(has to be ordered from Kano Labs website).
I'm going for that next, but I've already taken moderate steps on my app to not worry about blockage/chunks coming free of sludge etc,.
Though this car wasn't necessarily sludge before it had lots of varnish and did have a good amount of deposits.
I'm going for that next, but I've already taken moderate steps on my app to not worry about blockage/chunks coming free of sludge etc,.
Though this car wasn't necessarily sludge before it had lots of varnish and did have a good amount of deposits.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
...and to add to dp's post: If you get things moving or just want more immediate results, Kreen seems to be a real winner but it does cost a good bit more than MMO. $30 more for 1 quart after shipping(has to be ordered from Kano Labs website).
I'm going for that next, but I've already taken moderate steps on my app to not worry about blockage/chunks coming free of sludge etc,.
Though this car wasn't necessarily sludge before it had lots of varnish and did have a good amount of deposits.
Kreen(Kano Labs) states that it liquifies carbon and sludge.
I currently have it in a friends 294K mile 5.7 V8 Suburban and his was seriously carboned up. It is running a lot smoother now after Kreen was added 800 miles ago. We plan on doing a complete oil/filter change in 200 miles after 1K total... Will startover and add Kreen to PYB again and go 1K miles then probably will add another 16 OZ and take it out to 3K total.
...and to add to dp's post: If you get things moving or just want more immediate results, Kreen seems to be a real winner but it does cost a good bit more than MMO. $30 more for 1 quart after shipping(has to be ordered from Kano Labs website).
I'm going for that next, but I've already taken moderate steps on my app to not worry about blockage/chunks coming free of sludge etc,.
Though this car wasn't necessarily sludge before it had lots of varnish and did have a good amount of deposits.
Kreen(Kano Labs) states that it liquifies carbon and sludge.
I currently have it in a friends 294K mile 5.7 V8 Suburban and his was seriously carboned up. It is running a lot smoother now after Kreen was added 800 miles ago. We plan on doing a complete oil/filter change in 200 miles after 1K total... Will startover and add Kreen to PYB again and go 1K miles then probably will add another 16 OZ and take it out to 3K total.
Chris, FS is a great oil and mixed with MMO should yield the desired results for you. I plan on doing the same in a few weeks. Demarpoint has it spot on IMO. PYB with MMO is excellent for cleaning out that sludge. But FS is no slouch either.
Originally Posted By: volk06
Use the cheapest conventional you can find. If your looking for the maximum cleaning ability use PYB.
Totally agree here. Though MMO "can" be used with Synthetic oil.....if you're just running a "cleaning cycle" for 3k....just go with cheap SuperTech, QS, or PYB.....
As for your other question.....no, you can run MMO in the oil no problems up to 3000 miles.....they (MMO) just has not tested the oil for "long intervals" or "extended OCIs"......but I have heard of people adding a pint as "top off" to the "last leg" (last 3000 miles) of their extended oil change interval
Again, without any problems.
Just keep an eye on the oil level, preferably every fill up...because I have noticed some "burn off" occur, typically at the 1-1.5k mark, into a 3k OCI.....and I'll have to top it off about half a quart..methinks it's something like the MMO that causes some of the oil to "seep" past the rings a bit (part of lubrication....) keeping the valve stems/guides lubed, and so a little of the oil/MMO burns off....afterall, it is also a fuel additive
Use the cheapest conventional you can find. If your looking for the maximum cleaning ability use PYB.
Totally agree here. Though MMO "can" be used with Synthetic oil.....if you're just running a "cleaning cycle" for 3k....just go with cheap SuperTech, QS, or PYB.....
As for your other question.....no, you can run MMO in the oil no problems up to 3000 miles.....they (MMO) just has not tested the oil for "long intervals" or "extended OCIs"......but I have heard of people adding a pint as "top off" to the "last leg" (last 3000 miles) of their extended oil change interval
Just keep an eye on the oil level, preferably every fill up...because I have noticed some "burn off" occur, typically at the 1-1.5k mark, into a 3k OCI.....and I'll have to top it off about half a quart..methinks it's something like the MMO that causes some of the oil to "seep" past the rings a bit (part of lubrication....) keeping the valve stems/guides lubed, and so a little of the oil/MMO burns off....afterall, it is also a fuel additive
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
PYB and MMO make a great combo.
I have not tried this, but I've heard the same on another board. It was recommended for sludge cleanup.
It is much cheaper than using the other high end products for this, although these are very good in and of themselves.
PYB and MMO make a great combo.
I have not tried this, but I've heard the same on another board. It was recommended for sludge cleanup.
It is much cheaper than using the other high end products for this, although these are very good in and of themselves.
While I admit to not having much experience with MMO except in the gas tank (even then my experience is limited), I do have experience in cleaning sludge and varnish from engines, ranging from 4cyl Toyota engines to high performance BMW I6 and V8's.
That experience has almost exclusively revolved around using nothing more than good oil (and very occasional Seafoam). My BMW engines are now spotless, virtually new looking, with shiny surfaces everywhere you look.
I would recommend such an approach as it is slower and thus less likely to.dislodge major chunks that could clog oil passages and cause severe damage. I found Redline oil to be an incredible cleaner, and you can even run a 10k OCI so long as you change the filter often. This pulls the gunk out while also keeping the oil.fresh due to having to replenish it every filter change. Royal Purple (old kind w Synerlac) seems to clean well also.
That experience has almost exclusively revolved around using nothing more than good oil (and very occasional Seafoam). My BMW engines are now spotless, virtually new looking, with shiny surfaces everywhere you look.
I would recommend such an approach as it is slower and thus less likely to.dislodge major chunks that could clog oil passages and cause severe damage. I found Redline oil to be an incredible cleaner, and you can even run a 10k OCI so long as you change the filter often. This pulls the gunk out while also keeping the oil.fresh due to having to replenish it every filter change. Royal Purple (old kind w Synerlac) seems to clean well also.
nleksan : Your process would work fine I believe , I'm looking to make one short run a year with FS and MMO then my regular GM oil is M1 5W 30 . After my FS is used up I will just stay with M1 5W30 P1 or M1 filter and 5,000 mile / 6 month OCI's and call it a day . Hopefully the M1 will clean over time as well ...
JHZR2
Staff member
Id go conventional if doing a shorty interval generally, unless it was the interrim interval when I was transitioning to syn, and wanted to do a short OCI to get syn in and running, then out to flush out the rest of the old stuff.
For me, id probably run rotella 10 or 15w40 to do the cleaning interval. Cheap and should have good detergency.
For me, id probably run rotella 10 or 15w40 to do the cleaning interval. Cheap and should have good detergency.
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