MKS water pump failure... bummer dude

[D60]

Apparently at some point Team TFI finally figured out to somehow add a weep hole? I was just watching an FTM vid....I think he was working on a 2017 3.5 or 3.7 and he made mention of weeping when the water pump was leaking.

Doesn't apply to OP, just trivia.

Here, at 2:05. Maybe the 3.5 in the Exploders was different??

 

[D60]

If you can fix this thing for a few thousand why not fix it for your good customer? If they're strapped for money then this would certainly help them out as opposed to having to take a huge loss and then having nothing to drive.

Perhaps because if you fix it, you own it. Anything weird with the engine for the next ~2 to 4 years they'll want to hold him responsible.

Going rate these days is probably close to $2k after parts and labor (I'd at least do plugs while IM is removed). How do you explain to the customer it's gonna be $2k and still might be toast once it's back together? Or does the mechanic assume that risk and get $0 when he's all finished if it was the wrong call? I'd only do the latter if I owned/was given the vehicle.

I'm not disagreeing with you, just saying there needs to be a serious Come-to-Jesus discussion with the customer. Maybe they're reasonable, but people quickly become unreasonable when $$ is involved.

 

[mattd]

Apparently at some point Team TFI finally figured out to somehow add a weep hole? I was just watching an FTM vid....I think he was working on a 2017 3.5 or 3.7 and he made mention of weeping when the water pump was leaking.

Doesn't apply to OP, just trivia.

Here, at 2:05. Maybe the 3.5 in the Exploders was different??

There is a weep hole from the factory. The issue is it often gets clogged by dirt/debris.

 

[D60]

There is a weep hole from the factory. The issue is it often gets clogged by dirt/debris.

Thank you! I must have missed it when I had the timing cover removed

Also, OP, things that delayed me:
-don't forget to order the TTY cam phaser bolts
-you might need one longer guide bolt
-the phasers seal with THIN o-rings. No one talks about 'em much so they must rarely pose a problem but I'd sure feel better just having them on hand next time -- it wouldn't be that hard to simply lose one

 

[mattd]

Thank you! I must have missed it when I had the timing cover removed

Also, OP, things that delayed me:
-don't forget to order the TTY cam phaser bolts
-you might need one longer guide bolt
-the phasers seal with THIN o-rings. No one talks about 'em much so they must rarely pose a problem but I'd sure feel better just having them on hand next time -- it wouldn't be that hard to simply lose one

You’re right, many people forget about the VCT cam split ring seals. Last time they I ordered them my dealer said that was the last 4 they had, and it’s on national back order. I had to reuse 4 of them…Luckily with no issues.

 

[D60]

You’re right, many people forget about the VCT cam split ring seals. Last time they I ordered them my dealer said that was the last 4 they had, and it’s on national back order. I had to reuse 4 of them…Luckily with no issues.

I reused 'em all but I didn't like doing it.

I suspect a lot of shadetrees reuse the phaser bolts, too. It's probably ok but wouldn't make me comfortable

Oh, and the cam lock tool is really nice to have. Some claim you can get by without it but I wouldn't want to try

 

[38Chevy454]

The big issue on the OP's subject car is whether the bearings are OK or if they are too damaged. That's the risk and unknown. The fact it overheated means a lot of coolant was lost inside the engine. That's a bad sign indicating potential for bearing damage. Sad that a vehicle with otherwise many good miles left on it may end up costing too much to repair vs value. I agree that the OP should only take on the job if he owns the vehicle, too much risk for the customer who seems to be tight financially already.

I have this potential water pump problem on 2 vehicles: 2008 Edge 3.5 (180K) and 2016 Explorer 3.5 (29K). My hopeful plan is to just keep up on regular coolant changes, and of course regular oil changes. Since both of these affect the seals which seems to be the failure area, then once the seal leaks, it takes out the water pump bearing. Obviously not a foolproof method, but it's really all one can do beyond the easy watching the coolant reservoir level, the weep hole on the block and oil condition/color when doing oil changes. If the water pump replacement job wasn't such a big PITA job it would be candidate for preventative replacement.

 

[D60]

AFAIK the water pump is PM, no different than timing belt intervals.

Do it every 100k or you're playing Russian roulette

 

[D60]

Also IIRC the front main seal is the same part # as Ford modulars. I realize this is child's play to 14accent and mattd as both seem to be experienced techs and likely have all tools (or learned techniques) needed to install seals square, but I was glad to have my OTC copy.

I was unimpressed with $250 retail but got my hands on an installer and copied it

 

[Stumpy]

Just had my wife's CX-9 water pump done at 186K as a preventative measure. Piss on Ford for this STUPID design. Glad Mazda got away from them and all designs their own engines now.