Mixing Synthetics with Synthetic Blend

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Hi All! I have a few minutes before i go to work... I have some 2 Quarts leftover Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend 5w30, never Used. In time, i planned on switching to Full Synthetic 10W-3o MaxLife, as i think i can use that year-round (180,000 Miles on car, Medium driving habits, long trips and short trips blended, including 3 hour drives to Ohio, 30 minute drives to work, and 3 minute trips to Store, evenly balanced.)

My goal is to keep the inside of the engine clean and de-sludged, "Within Reason".. Im getting a new head installed, (Used Head, my head Gasket is blown).. 2000 miles before this i tried to DeSludge the engine EXTENSIVELY with Synthetic Oil, SeaFoam (Twice,) Transmission fluid one quart per change and left it in Crankcase, and "Motor Flush" before an Oil Change with half Transmission Fluid in, i drove for 50 miles.. i basically tried Everything.

So my Head and Head Gasket will be "New"... i "Blue Deviled" it i may one more time, not sure, to ensure Block health. For this, im attracted to a Higher Mileage oil, and i may use Synthetic Blend MaxLife OR Full Synthetic MaxLife (Synthetic benefits vs Blend benefits.) I suppose -SOME- Sludge will remain..

Im 1) Asking if mixing 2 quarts 5w30 Valvoline Synthetic Blend with 2 Quarts Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 10w30 AND half quart Lucas Stop-Leak (Used with head Gasket, i still use car for work with blown Head Gasket, only for one more week, the Oldsmobile can take it, 180,000 miles) is "OK" for a "2000 Mile" OCI before i DO go Full Synthetic, will that help clean my "Low" amount of Sludge from the 2.5L Iron Duke? And also..

2) Will the Full Synthetic CLEAN and CONTINUE to keep my engine Sludge-Free?

I may even use Full Synthetic 5w30 year round.. someone told me to use 5w30 because it says it on the Filler Cap, and that it "Lubes Better" than 10w30.

OK I must depart for work now.. deciding how to best pamper the Engine that will have a new head of unknown Mileage off a 1989 Grand Am 2.5L on my 1991 Olds Calais 2.5L.. Thanks, ill check it when i get back in! TY - Joe a.k.a. Cadillacmobile

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Valvoline synpower, like castrol syntec isnt synthetic, just group III premium oil and is not recommended for extended oil changes. Why do you think you have sludge? Just find your favorite conventional oil and change at reasonable intervals and you should be sludge free (if the PCV system is working correctly). Change the oil about 500 miles after the head service then 3000 miles then at whatever interval is appropriate for climate. 10w30 is good for florida and the 5w30 is fine for midwest winters. I would not use High Mileage oil afeter a head service - you have NEW valve seals (hopefully) and the oil has to get down the valve guides.
 
Although the synthetics have better cleaning abilities the claim to fame is that the engine that uses the syn doesn't develop sludge that can become deposits. With a preexisting issue switching to syn will not clean up that engine free of deposits over 1 or 2 OCI's. Puting a fresh clean cyl.head on the top of it is taking care of a huge part of that problem eliminating maybe 80-85% of the deposits in your engine.
 
Why do think you have sludge? Some deposits and stains on your engine is fine and will happen with time.

Go ahead and mix away at your pleasure. When these quarts are used up, go to a Non-HM 5w30 Synthetic oil of your choice if your engine isn't leaking or burning any oil.

PP, SynPower, Syntec, Edge, etc... are all fine for this application with enough detergents and additives to keep the engine fairly clean and sludge free under reasonable OCI's.

Make sure your PCV system is functioning properly and coolant isn't getting into the oil.
 
There's no mention of OCI in your post. Can't make a judgement if we don't know how long you intend to keep the oil in there.
 
You can mix ANY oil with ANY OTHER oil these days - they all 'have' to be compatible.

I doubt your engine is severely sludged - a few deposits, maybe, but not bad. If the engine still runs well, and doesn't use a ton of oil, you're good to go. You really gotta stop stressing about how clean your engine is.

And could you PLEASE explain your sig line???

A filter only goes into by-pass mode if it is severely blocked with sludge, or it is so cold that the oil can't easily flow through it. I don't think either of those conditions exist here; so no, your filter is not 'in bypass'
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Maybe the op uses a bypass filtering setup.


He does not. If I recall the OP changed his oil last without changing his oil filter and believes his oil filter is clogged but will not change it becasue that would require another oil change due to the filter being in the oil pan. Also I recall he did an ATF flush (same filter) and said the oil came out like coca cola and was in a separate layer from the ATF. Read his posts kooky stuff.

And to actually answer some of the OP's wanderings. If you only have an external coolant leak then you can probably get away with driving it a week if you keep the coolant topped off. If you have coolant in the oil and drive it that way for a week expect bad things to happen. Also for the price of a head gasket job (assuming you are not DIY) how about a rebuilt or used low mileage engine? or a new used car? How much does an olds of that vintage go for these days?
 
The guy is asking. give him TBOTD. If he puts a fresh cyl. head on it no need for harsh flushes the major crud will be gone. The only real crud left will be the dregs in the bottom of the pan.
 
Not really true about being just a group III oil. Like some of the big boys its a mixture of group III and IV base oils (valvoline.com) Its even posted on there website. I find that Valvoline to be the best customer service people. No hiding of information, just pure information and honest people there. I too have maxlife and synpower, I was considering mixing the two together but I wasn't sure either. Good luck, I am running dino Pennzoil conventional right now after 60,000 miles of PP. Not really seeing the difference between both products at this point. Good Luck!!!
 
Ok.. a few updates:

1) I noticed Valvoline maxLife is "SM" rated and Mobil 1 High Mileage is "SL.." .. is this of ANY Relevance?

2) ive OCId at like 6000-7000 miles on maxLife, then 1000 to Full Synth, then like 500 miles and 500 miles in my De-Sludge attemot.. then 1000 miles until the HG blew. Sooo... vie been trying to clean it. (At one time, i had a quart of ATf in there, a quart of PP, and used the FLush.. for like 70 miles. Trying to run it through. I kbnow i was excessive.)

3) The head is USED.. Mileage Unknown. i think HM will be good for it, based on that. (Forgot if i said "new Head.")

I wonder if i have SLUDGE due to Overheating... with some Lucas in there.. i wonder if Sludge has been made, as i wonder if i cleaned away soem, of the Sludge that was helping it stay Sealed and such (My mechanic says SOME sludge is ok, may huide "Leaks.")

My car is a good car.. i knwo you remember the Pics.

Ill read the rest of the Responses now.. Thanks..
 
I changed the filter 1000 miles ago. i took it to a shop, as they had the wrench that could get the Pan off. i have since purchased my own socket and not used it.. but even though this poster is correct i changed my Oil WITHOUT changing Filter and used the Filter money on Sockets i was that broke.. .. my Filter is aproximately 100 miles old, and im not sure if the Filter was sludged in an accelerated manner, due to my Cleaning attempts and Overheatings.

Again: the head is from a 1989 grand Am 2.5L and i have a 1991 Calais 2.5L, same engine.. Mileage unknown.. so i think Hm is a good choice?

Im -LEANNG- towards the Full Synthetic ML... Are you saying the MAX LIFE Full Synthetic will do "No" Cleaning.. or WILl Clean because it is a Full Synthetic? On that i am confused..

Thank you for your input, it is helpful, thank you..
 
I wonder what effects Valvoline macLife Full Synthetic will have not so much as a Cleaner oil, but as a Keeping my engine low on Sludge and therefore Clean Oil. Also, what OCI woudl you use with Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 5w30 on the new head?

My car is starting up like
57.gif
but its not the oil its the head, the head needs changed... and gasket..
 
If you replace the cyl. head with a clean one a majority of the cleaning is complete. the remainder will be found in the bottom of the oil pan. The synthetics clean & so do the conventional oils. the synthetic oils will not degrade as soon as the conventional.
 
Originally Posted By: JCCADILLACMOBILE
I wonder what effects Valvoline macLife Full Synthetic will have not so much as a Cleaner oil, but as a Keeping my engine low on Sludge and therefore Clean Oil. Also, what OCI woudl you use with Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic 5w30 on the new head?

My car is starting up like
57.gif
but its not the oil its the head, the head needs changed... and gasket..


Dude, lay off the caffeine.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
If you replace the cyl. head with a clean one a majority of the cleaning is complete. the remainder will be found in the bottom of the oil pan. The synthetics clean & so do the conventional oils. the synthetic oils will not degrade as soon as the conventional.


I appreciate that. :)

.. The head i found... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370165761251&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

It is going on my 1991 Oldsmobile Calais engine.
 
Is there anythign else i should keep in mind when i change (rather have changed, i cant do it myself) my Head out to the one pictured in the link above, the one that is arriving in the Mail?

Is there anything that could be potentially different from the 89 Grand Am Iron Duke to the 1991 Olds Calais Iron Duke, or just Change it and Go?

I also wonder how i get the coolant pools (my car has Blown Head Gasket) out of Cylinders and if oil is drained BEFORE doing this or not, just so i know.. Thanks!
 
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