Thanks for reading, I am installing a amsoil bmk30 eabp110 on one of the trucks in our fleet. The truck is an 07 freightliner Columbia detroit 14l., emmissions Turned off, the truck has over 1m miles and right at 100k on rod and main bearings and new oil pump (they were replaced during an inspection showing heavy wear). I have been running 9 gallons of mystic 15-50 and 1 gallon of mystic viscid lube (which I can't find any info on bitog) each oil change which is done every 20k. It prob burns/leaks 2 gallons every 20k. I have sample bottles on standby, the current oil has 10k on it and I am going to change to baldwin blue filters dbl3998 and install the bypass kit. I am considering changing to rotella t6 as well . We haul very heavy loads locally 22 miles each way and run very hard in nasty dust\paper ash so I feel guilty for the 20k mi changes and want max longevity. Any thoughts appreciated
Also quick side note I'm also going to send off a sample on my other truck (glider kit ) 12.7 detroit 206k on it, it has 36k on rotella t6, and iv changed the filters twice at 15k intervals and I'm about to send off a sample , switch to the synthetic media baldwin blue dbl3998, and the send another sample shortly after to see what the results are with the better filters.
After lots of research i was putting together my own kit an decided to go amsoil instead ,would love y'alls input!
Million mile bypass, long read
- Thread starter NStuart
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Aside from money ... initial cost and replacement media ... I don't see anything wrong with the Amsoil kits.
I don't run semis myself, but I would run the best air filters, with prefilter, that money could buy. That would be better than switching from Mystik to (very expensive) Amsoil or T6 on a truck that already uses a fair amount of oil.
The initial cost is a little rough.
$262 for bypass kit
$41 for extra filter
$30 x2 for dbl3998 filters
$55 for new oil sender ( that's where my feed line is coming from. its original as far as I know and it shuts the truck down if pressure is lost)
$21.99 x11 rotella t6 home depot has lowest price so far
$22 x3. (uoa) Baseline,after install , extended
$100 custom hoses. - Not using supplied mediocre fittings
I'm sure there is more but I'm not sitting in front of my notepad at work right now that's just off the top of my head.
I also have to add in the $50 for the baldwin ob1308 filter housing and the baldwin b7577 filter $11 that I originally bought for building my own kit it will probably end up on my 96 Ram as a second rate bypass kit. I would gain a gallon capacity just from that filter alone lol. I only drive this truck 16mi a day, prob not worth it . that filter is around 15m at 99% and 5m 50% I think...... Wouldn't be my worst waste of money ever, but I prob need to find a smaller bypass filter with 1 3\8-16 threads instead of putting a semi-truck oil filter on a 1500 gas pickup
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As a truck owner myself with 4 dump trucks hauling 80000lbs daily for construction..i dont understand the math or logic in the hyper long oil changes with craft oils.
1) oil changes are a tax deduction.
2) 10 gallons of 15w40 plus filters is around $200.
Doing construction work not OTR my trucks easily make $20K in 10K miles.. $200 plus $50 for an air filter to me is on par with acceptable maintenance costs.
I have ran the donaldson blue air filter on the glider truck before that increased filtration stopped the filter up in 20,000 miles and saw a loss in fuel economy quickly, I prob do need to start using that air filter again. Until I started doing this research I didn't realize what the significance of that filter was , it came in the truck when it was new. I didn't realize the blue filter indicated it was a much better filter until recently I discovered Donaldson blue line of filters.
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
As a truck owner myself with 4 dump trucks hauling 80000lbs daily for construction..i dont understand the math or logic in the hyper long oil changes with craft oils.
1) oil changes are a tax deduction.
2) 10 gallons of 15w40 plus filters is around $200.
Doing construction work not OTR my trucks easily make $20K in 10K miles.. $200 plus $50 for an air filter to me is on par with acceptable maintenance costs.
I see where u are coming from...
I have run old tired engines for years and have seen fuel in oil, coolant in oil, oil in coolant, fuel in coolant..you name it.. so i always skipped the high end oils and long drains and opted for whatever 15w40 was on sale along with Napa gold filters thru my trucker account.. and try to change at 10000 miles or 2000hrs as best i can.
From what i can tell over the years keeping the liners happy has been more important than anything.. I also like to visually inspect the turbo and intake once a year to make sure little if anything gets by the air filter.
If you're serious about bypass filtration, don't bother with an Amsoil. The BEST way to purify oil is bypass filtration combined with a centrifuge. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29426/purifying-engine-oil
Amsoil advertises their filtration is "98.7% efficient down to 2 microns." https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g498.pdf
This sounds great until you realize that "98.7% efficient" is only a beta 75 and leaving 13000 particles for every million particles IN your oil.
Caterpiller 5 Star warranty service recommends your oil to have a minimum cleanliness rating of 16/13, and there isn't a motor oil on the market clean enough to put in your engine: https://www.hyprofiltration.com/clientuploads/directory/CaseStudies/PDFs/CAT%205%20Star.pdf
I'm using a Puradyn bypass filter, and there is a trucking company in Michigan that has used this filter on one hundred trucks over the road for a million miles EACH TRUCK without an oil change or oil related failure: http://www.marketwired.com/press-release...ange-793914.htm
The Puradyn filter has 5 US patents; and one of those patents is for timed release additives to replenish the Base number in your oil: https://www.puradyn.com/filter-elements/
I'm also using a centrifuge, because Machinery Lubrication magazine (first link above) says that is the BEST way to purify your oil, and there isn't an armchair oil jockey on this site who knows better and can prove otherwise. I drive a Buick Lesabre, and I'm experimenting. I hope to never change my oil.
PM me if you're interested in more info.
Caterpiller 5 Star warranty service recommends your oil to have a minimum cleanliness rating of 16/13, and there isn't a motor oil on the market clean enough to put in your engine: https://www.hyprofiltration.com/clientuploads/directory/CaseStudies/PDFs/CAT%205%20Star.pdf
I'm using a Puradyn bypass filter, and there is a trucking company in Michigan that has used this filter on one hundred trucks over the road for a million miles EACH TRUCK without an oil change or oil related failure: http://www.marketwired.com/press-release...ange-793914.htm
The Puradyn filter has 5 US patents; and one of those patents is for timed release additives to replenish the Base number in your oil: https://www.puradyn.com/filter-elements/
I'm also using a centrifuge, because Machinery Lubrication magazine (first link above) says that is the BEST way to purify your oil, and there isn't an armchair oil jockey on this site who knows better and can prove otherwise. I drive a Buick Lesabre, and I'm experimenting. I hope to never change my oil.
PM me if you're interested in more info.Originally Posted By: NStuart
I was considering Spinner 2 centrifuge on the newer truck with less miles, do you have a link for more information on the beta numbers so that I can better understand what I'm looking at
I've always been interested in bypass filtration, But Here recently on the truck that I drive we stopped changing the oil and just started swapping filters, I will send off oil samples in the next two weeks on both trucks. The started out as research on a centrifuge, my pops is one of those very slow and methodical people, he seems interested as well I just figured I'd start with bypass filtration , your setup is very interesting I generally Overkill things as well lol so I understand, that's why I'm here
Originally Posted By: NStuart
I've always been interested in bypass filtration, But Here recently on the truck that I drive we stopped changing the oil and just started swapping filters, I will send off oil samples in the next two weeks on both trucks. The started out as research on a centrifuge, my pops is one of those very slow and methodical people, he seems interested as well I just figured I'd start with bypass filtration , your setup is very interesting I generally Overkill things as well lol so I understand, that's why I'm here
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: NStuart
I've always been interested in bypass filtration, But Here recently on the truck that I drive we stopped changing the oil and just started swapping filters, I will send off oil samples in the next two weeks on both trucks. The started out as research on a centrifuge, my pops is one of those very slow and methodical people, he seems interested as well I just figured I'd start with bypass filtration , your setup is very interesting I generally Overkill things as well lol so I understand, that's why I'm here
What you are now doing is establishing a baseline. This is excellent, because if you go to bypass filtration/and/or a centrifuge, you will know how much better the filtration is because you will have documentation of "before" conditions. This is WHY I DIDN'T change my oil when I put the centrifuge on.
According to the engineers at Puradyn that I've talked to, they claim that their filtration (filter elements) take about 12K miles to become 100% efficient. Any oil filter, even a full flow, becomes more efficient as it is in use, it "clogs." My last UOA showed that my Iron, copper, lead, and silicon counts came DOWN, while the particle count stayed very close to the same.
Since I confessed to losing a quart on the garage floor, I'm disgusted with the lost research, but I'm going to continue with the UOA every 4K miles and see where this leads. I am also running an NTZ filter, you may find this interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0dWI7u7jjw
I expect it to take 8-12K miles to see a real difference in the particle counts, and I'm hoping that the timed-release additives in the Puradyn filter raise my TBN number in the next UOA. The TBN is the oil's ability to neutralize acids, which get into your oil as a byproduct of the combustion process. http://pqiamerica.com/TBN.htm
The grim reaper to bypass filtration is the TBN. UNLESS you add sufficient top up oil between oil changes (and no one knows how much is ENOUGH), then your TBN is eventually going to drop to the point that the oil must be changed. This "Grim Reaper" situation applies to Amsoil, NTZ, Kleen-oil, Frantz, Trasko, Gulf Coast filters, the FS2500, and every brand or type of bypass filtration in existence.
Other than the Puradyn. http://processfiltrationproducts.com/PuraDYNHowItWorks.html Puradyn is also the only filter in the world certified by the State of California as a pollution control device: http://dtsc.ca.gov/PollutionPrevention/upload/bypass-oil-filters-fact-sheet.pdf
I know of no one else on this site that is doing what I am doing. Open invitation; anyone show pictures and prove me wrong?
Originally Posted By: Ihatetochangeoil
What you are now doing is establishing a baseline. This is excellent, because if you go to bypass filtration/and/or a centrifuge, you will know how much better the filtration is because you will have documentation of "before" conditions. This is WHY I DIDN'T change my oil when I put the centrifuge on.
According to the engineers at Puradyn that I've talked to, they claim that their filtration (filter elements) take about 12K miles to become 100% efficient. Any oil filter, even a full flow, becomes more efficient as it is in use, it "clogs." My last UOA showed that my Iron, copper, lead, and silicon counts came DOWN, while the particle count stayed very close to the same.
Since I confessed to losing a quart on the garage floor, I'm disgusted with the lost research, but I'm going to continue with the UOA every 4K miles and see where this leads. I am also running an NTZ filter, you may find this interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0dWI7u7jjw
I expect it to take 8-12K miles to see a real difference in the particle counts, and I'm hoping that the timed-release additives in the Puradyn filter raise my TBN number in the next UOA. The TBN is the oil's ability to neutralize acids, which get into your oil as a byproduct of the combustion process. http://pqiamerica.com/TBN.htm
The grim reaper to bypass filtration is the TBN. UNLESS you add sufficient top up oil between oil changes (and no one knows how much is ENOUGH), then your TBN is eventually going to drop to the point that the oil must be changed. This "Grim Reaper" situation applies to Amsoil, NTZ, Kleen-oil, Frantz, Trasko, Gulf Coast filters, the FS2500, and every brand or type of bypass filtration in existence.
Other than the Puradyn. http://processfiltrationproducts.com/PuraDYNHowItWorks.html Puradyn is also the only filter in the world certified by the State of California as a pollution control device: http://dtsc.ca.gov/PollutionPrevention/upload/bypass-oil-filters-fact-sheet.pdf
I know of no one else on this site that is doing what I am doing. Open invitation; anyone show pictures and prove me wrong?
Thanks, it's fully deleted.
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