MICRO GREEN OIL FILTER

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Does anyone here use the MICROGREEN Filter as they say??? and leave the oil in the car for 30000 miles as they say? Just wondering. Here is what they say? For example, for vehicles with a 5,000 mile oil change interval, a new microGreen® filter is installed every 10,000 miles but the oil is not changed until 30,000 miles
 
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as a mechanical filtration device--oil filter is capable of filtering out insolubles. Regrettably, engine oil will gradually oxidised and form acids as it interacts with moisture and combustion byproducts. These "dissolved" contaminants cannot be rid of unless you perform a drain-and-fill (with fresh new lubricant of course). At the end of the day: would you rather keep your that rancid, contaminated oil inside your engine up to 30,000miles? I personally would not buy it (and will not do so in practice either). Q.
 
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No filter will filter out contaminants for 30,000 miles. I'd stick to your OCI your owner's manual states. I change oil and filter on all of our 3 cars every 5,000 miles.
 
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Originally Posted By: anndel
No filter will filter out contaminants for 30,000 miles. I'd stick to your OCI your owner's manual states. I change oil and filter on all of our 3 cars every 5,000 miles.
An oversized Fram Ultra could easily do 30k with a clean engine and highway miles.
 
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Originally Posted By: anndel
No filter will filter out contaminants for 30,000 miles. I'd stick to your OCI your owner's manual states. I change oil and filter on all of our 3 cars every 5,000 miles.
this is me, a lot better than every 3000 miles for waste of resources/time etc
 
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I am using the microGreen. I am on the second one of the three-filter series. I changed the first one at 10K. It took 1/2 quart of make-up oil to get the level back to full. I am 5,000 miles into the second filter. The oil is still the same shade of brown as it reached after 5,000 miles on the first filter and I am now at 15K miles on the oil (M1 AFE 0W-20). You have to lose your filter paradigm with these filters. There is a thread on this forum showing one cut open. There is a built-in bypass filter than filters much smaller particles than the full-flow portion. I'll be doing a UOA after the 30K mark is reached so stay tuned.
 
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Originally Posted By: Quest
as a mechanical filtration device--oil filter is capable of filtering out insolubles. Regrettably, engine oil will gradually oxidised and form acids as it interacts with moisture and combustion byproducts. These "dissolved" contaminants cannot be rid of unless you perform a drain-and-fill (with fresh new lubricant of course). At the end of the day: would you rather keep your that rancid, contaminated oil inside your engine up to 30,000miles? I personally would not buy it (and will not do so in practice either). Q.
Scroll down to the last of these FAQ's. http://www.microgreenfilter.com/faqs
 
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It could work. It seems like the same philosophy as what bypass filtration accomplishes. And we know full well on this site that bypass filtration can extend an OCI greatly.
 
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Why do you think this ? Fram says the ultra is good for 15k so why do you think you can go twice that? I would not try that
 
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Each MG filter is on the car 10K miles. So, in 30K miles you use three. But, as the whole concept is counter to established beliefs resistance is natural. Look how long it took to dispel the 3K OCI habit. In fact, many are still stuck on it and lots of oil change places still put stickers on the windshield stating that customers need to come back in 3K miles. I will let the analysis determine if the claims are valid. If the're not, I won't do it again.
 
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Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Why do you think this ? Fram says the ultra is good for 15k so why do you think you can go twice that? I would not try that
Because it works nothing like an Ultra. I haven't tried one nor do I own stock in the company, but I find the idea of two filtration paths intriquing. The part I wouldn't try is running oil for 30K or more miles without UOA's for water buildup or TBN depletion.
 
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You have to admire the passion displayed on this site! Not only are most convinced they are right, they also have to make sure everyone else is wrong. Armed with a little knowledge we are all online degreed chemists and petroleum engineers. Mobil only backed off its claims of 25,000 mile oil changes in the 70's due to automotive industry pressure. Was the oil they made in 1975 inferior to what they make today? Since engines today use far less fuel to travel a given distance my limited logic capability tells me that there should be fewer contaminants in the oil. Furthermore, with fuels being formulated to produce fewer emissions that would suggest that there are fewer combustion byproducts to make their way into the oil. I beg your pardon if I am suggesting I am a chemist. I'm not.
 

JOD

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Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Each MG filter is on the car 10K miles. So, in 30K miles you use three. But, as the whole concept is counter to established beliefs resistance is natural. Look how long it took to dispel the 3K OCI habit. In fact, many are still stuck on it and lots of oil change places still put stickers on the windshield stating that customers need to come back in 3K miles. I will let the analysis determine if the claims are valid. If the're not, I won't do it again.
I look forward to seeing your results--although I imagine that it'll work out just fine. On what sort of car/engine will you be doing this?
 

ZeeOSix

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I'm not very familiar with big commercial trucking maintenance, but don't they run the oil for a very long time (20K+ miles?) using bypass filtering? Of course the sump capacity is huge, which would also help keep the oil life during a very long OCI.
 
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Interesting warranty they have on their site too. The warranty applies only to a failure of the filter. If you engine fails because the oil has degraded completely - shear out of grade, fuel dilution, depletion of additive pack, saturation and sludge - it's not covered under their warranty
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
An oversized Fram Ultra could easily do 30k with a clean engine and highway miles.
The only information we have on the FarmUltra is a first-pass efficiency rating that was recanted. Do we have capacity data as well?
Originally Posted By: HangFire
but I find the idea of two filtration paths intriquing.
As do I. Since each layer traps a certain size of particle, the only way that the full media could be loaded up is with an even distribution of particle sizes that correspond to each layer's beta ratio. As soon as the particle sizes become unevenly distributed in size (ie more small than large or vice versa), then suddenly only half of the media can trap and hold these particles, leaving the other layer either plugged or inaccessible. That said, I don't entirely buy the microgreen philosophy, but having not tried to substantiate their claims, I am interested in DBMaster's results
 
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ZeeOSix

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Originally Posted By: jrustles
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
An oversized Fram Ultra could easily do 30k with a clean engine and highway miles.
The only information we have on the Farm Ultra is a first-pass efficiency rating that was recanted. Do we have capacity data as well?
Don't know what recanted spec you're speaking of. Fram's website says the Ultra is 99%+ at or greater than 20 microns, tested per ISO 4548-12, which is a multi-pass test procedure. If it's rated for 15K miles, its holding capacity is certainly very good. Fram Ultra Specs
 
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Originally Posted By: DBMaster
You have to admire the passion displayed on this site! Not only are most convinced they are right, they also have to make sure everyone else is wrong. Armed with a little knowledge we are all online degreed chemists and petroleum engineers. Mobil only backed off its claims of 25,000 mile oil changes in the 70's due to automotive industry pressure. Was the oil they made in 1975 inferior to what they make today? Since engines today use far less fuel to travel a given distance my limited logic capability tells me that there should be fewer contaminants in the oil. Furthermore, with fuels being formulated to produce fewer emissions that would suggest that there are fewer combustion byproducts to make their way into the oil. I beg your pardon if I am suggesting I am a chemist. I'm not.
Let me put it this way (easier to understand): (a) there's a huge design and implementation differences between the gasoline IC engines in the 70s and nowadays(ref: most standard EFI engines under OBD-II type management) is that (a) back in the days of yore, oil contamination especially fuel-related diluation (carburettor is a very archaic, crude way to get fuel mix with air, and a lot of unburned (still liquid form) fuel gets into the engine as a result). While I don't doubt anything GpIII or beyond (since the days of Mobil 1) have very robust base oil, unfortunately, oil still gets diluted with unburned fuel during the course of in-engine operation. Fuel diluation is somewhat cumulative in a sense that while frequent, extended oil-temperature operation will help evaporate some of them trapped ones somewhat, there's still quite a bit of them left behind, mixed with your engine oil and "thins" it out. (b) moisture in all forms including exhaust gas from combustion chamber bypassing ring gaps, will still get into the oil and mixed it up. Gasoline mix in the days of yore contains generous amounts of sulphur, which mixed with moisture, formed acid. (c) base oil degradation due to thermocycling, shearing, and other mechanical, chemical if not thermal means. (d) most conventional motor oils back in the days of yore comprised of mainly solvent-scrubbed mineral-base oil (Gp 1 primarily) on API SE grading, which comes with a lot of impurities with poor base oil viscosity (must add a lot of Viscosity improvers in order to meet the standards for certain API mutli-viscosity grading). (e) very archaic ignition and emissions systems design (points-based, no cat, in N.A. PCV valving already in-use since the 60s, etc.), all contribute to the accelerated contamination of the engine oil itself. (f) small sump for typical passenger grade automotive gasoline engines. With all these in mind, 3k OCI on general gasoline-based automobile makes sense. While you may argue with me that the base oil is very, very robust these days (citing more boutique base oils, some runs beyond typical GpIII, etc.) Do remember that we still have to combat the following even with the latest and greatest computer-managed EFI or DI engines. Some fundamental challenges still out there and have to be dealt with: (a) engine oil fuel-dilution problem (b) moisture creation during the combustion process (c) base oil degradation due to thermocycling, shearing, and other mechanical and chemical interaction while engine oil in-service. (d) PCV valving and also EGR (exhaust gas recirculation). (e) relatively small oil sump in typical passenger grade automotive gasoline engines. So long as there's no perfect energy conversion mechanism achievable on the surface of this world, gasoline IC engines still more or less have to face these challenges and engine oil still see these problems as a major concern. As I said before: Oil filters take care of insolubles. Changing oil filters still does not elminate the fuel dilution trapped in your base oil, and neither does the dissolved contaminants. I can see that there's the possibility of extending the engine oil service life during the oil filter change (small amount of engine oil remains inside the old oil filter gets changed out while fresh make-up oil added into the sump. Lastly: highly-refined base oil (Gp III or higher) may be robust throughout the OCI service interval, there's no good way to replenish the otherwise depleted additivesand VII improvers (other than possible make up oil, esp. during oil filter change), and also the rid of moisture and contamination of base oil... (*I certainly cannot take on that so-called "synloob" joke out there*, obviously) My 2c's worth. Q.
 
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Right, I found the warranty language to be quite evasive myself. Interestingly, they do not state that you have to use synthetic oil. So, if they say you can run 30K on conventional that seems like quite a feat. I would not be trying this if my car were still under warranty. The car I am using for this experiment is my 2012 Mazda 3i (Skyactiv DI engine). Restrain yourselves from shuddering too much.
 
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