I just purchased a new ariens pro32 snowblower. It has a briggs and stratton snow series (alumium sleeve version) 16.5ft/lb engine. The instructions said to change the oil after the first 2 hours and every 25 hours thereafter. The dealer ran it for a 20 minutes before delivering it to me to "make shure everything was ok". After I received it I warmed it up and used it for about an 45 minutes then changed the oil. There were a good amount of metalic glitter clearly visible although too small to feel. After that I installed an hour meter and have a about 10 hours total. I have changed the oil 10 times with about an hour between changes. It still looks about the same. For the first 7 hours I used mineral oil then switched to synthetic, both 5w30. From what I read this is common upon break-in on engines without an oil filter, but after 10 hours. B&S customer service is not open until after the new year.
metal glitter in b&s after 10 hours??
- Thread starter morrison250r
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I've seen it on a few Briggs Engines over the years. It takes about 20 hours or so to break them in. If you're still noticing it after about 25 hours I'd have them check it. Odds are if it is running good they're probably going to tell you it's fine.
I'm curious what their official response is, but I would tend not to worry. I have seen metal in oil changes on many small engines - even motorcycles/atv's.
The metal "glitter" didn't bother me at first but after 10 hours and 10 oil changes and no reduction in amount....
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
Over 10hrs of use on a brand-new snowblower? Yikes that's a lot of snow. I live in the Buffalo NY area and my 10yr/old snowblower probably doesn't have 20hrs on it. Regardless, I wouldn't worry about the glitter. With your usage, I'd switch to Rotella-T 5w40 though.
Joel
Joel
Quit changing oil. Run it 25 hours, then change it. After the next 25 the glitter will be gone.
Morrison250R, I usually see a reduction in visible debris after the 3rd change ... but then my 2nd and subsequent changes are 2-3+ hours. I think Johnny may be right ... you are changing a bit too often, it is still breaking in and shedding metal which is why you continue to see it in the used oil.
Also, are you sure you are getting a complete drain? Dad's Ariens has a nifty drain tube that sticks out of the rear of the machine. I put a block of wood under the front to lift it 3" or so ... and let it drain for at least an hour.
I think the Ariens snowblowers are the easiest machines (of any type) for oil changes.
I would use a top-oil in the next couple of tankfuls of fuel. I think it makes for a slower, more careful mating of the rings to the cylinder walls. Try MMO, Lucas UCL or some old 2-cycle oil at about 150:1 or so.
I've broken in several OPE engines this way and none smoke or consume oil.
Also, are you sure you are getting a complete drain? Dad's Ariens has a nifty drain tube that sticks out of the rear of the machine. I put a block of wood under the front to lift it 3" or so ... and let it drain for at least an hour.
I think the Ariens snowblowers are the easiest machines (of any type) for oil changes.
I would use a top-oil in the next couple of tankfuls of fuel. I think it makes for a slower, more careful mating of the rings to the cylinder walls. Try MMO, Lucas UCL or some old 2-cycle oil at about 150:1 or so.
I've broken in several OPE engines this way and none smoke or consume oil.
JTK-a quick online search informed me that your aera receives about 90" of snow per year. Maine ranges from about 70" on the coast to 110" in the moutaine and up north with Millinocket getting about the same as you, 90" or so. Also I have been doing my grandparents yard also becaues their craftsman 8/26 is waiting for a new belt. Then I can use their snowblower to to their yard thereby saving hours on mine. Why would you recommend I switch to 5w-40 rotella (mineral based I assume) over the recommended 5w30 mineral or sythetic with "my useage"?
Johnny-After seeing the ammount of glitter in the first oil change I thought I would change it every hour or so until the ammount was reduced. Then I would reduce the frequency of the oil changes to "normal". I figured it woulldn't hurt, other than time and money. It makes me feel better spending the extra $25 or oil and hour of my time to change the oil, even if it is excessive. Expecially on a $2300 machine.
Bror Jace- I let it drain for awhile then tip it up to get the last bit out. B&S manual says 26-28 oz. of oil, 26.5 oz fills it up so yes, as complete as can be without disassembling the engine! What do you mean by a top oil? Currently I use 87 oct. with 10% ethanol and marine sta-bil 1/2 oz to 5 gallons. I assume that you mean a lubricant mixed with the fuel at a low ratio.
Also I was thinking of switching to amsoil small engine oil, but it is only made in 10w30. Anyother ideas? Thanyou for the help!
Johnny-After seeing the ammount of glitter in the first oil change I thought I would change it every hour or so until the ammount was reduced. Then I would reduce the frequency of the oil changes to "normal". I figured it woulldn't hurt, other than time and money. It makes me feel better spending the extra $25 or oil and hour of my time to change the oil, even if it is excessive. Expecially on a $2300 machine.
Bror Jace- I let it drain for awhile then tip it up to get the last bit out. B&S manual says 26-28 oz. of oil, 26.5 oz fills it up so yes, as complete as can be without disassembling the engine! What do you mean by a top oil? Currently I use 87 oct. with 10% ethanol and marine sta-bil 1/2 oz to 5 gallons. I assume that you mean a lubricant mixed with the fuel at a low ratio.
Also I was thinking of switching to amsoil small engine oil, but it is only made in 10w30. Anyother ideas? Thanyou for the help!
Morrison250r, the Rotella 5W-40 is a synthetic HDEO ... with the newest T6 version claiming performance at temps as low as -30F.
Sounds like you are draining the motor thoroughly.
Yes, by "top oil" I am talking about some light lubricant mixed with the fuel ... Lucas UCL or MMO would be my top two picks ... but if you have some old 2-stroke oil laying around, I'd use that too. I use this the first few tankfuls when breaking in a new motor then I use it every other or every third tankful after that.
Take a look at the pour point of the Amsoil 10w30 ... it's -38F -39C which is almost 0w30 territory.
The Amsoil would be fine for winter use ... although I generally prefer an HDEO. I'd love to find Chevron Delo400 0w30 ... just can't get it this far south.
Sounds like you are draining the motor thoroughly.
Yes, by "top oil" I am talking about some light lubricant mixed with the fuel ... Lucas UCL or MMO would be my top two picks ... but if you have some old 2-stroke oil laying around, I'd use that too. I use this the first few tankfuls when breaking in a new motor then I use it every other or every third tankful after that.
Take a look at the pour point of the Amsoil 10w30 ... it's -38F -39C which is almost 0w30 territory.
The Amsoil would be fine for winter use ... although I generally prefer an HDEO. I'd love to find Chevron Delo400 0w30 ... just can't get it this far south.
HDEO? High detergency.....????? Could you please explain?
Sorry, I've asked for a BITOG acronym sticky for a while, now ...
HDEO = Heavy Duty Engine Oil ... oil for use in diesel or diesel and gasoline engines. The additive package is stouter to deal with more fuel dilution and the extended drains typical of commercial trucking use.
PCMO = Passenger Car Motor Oil ... Essentially, the rest of motor oils.
HDEO = Heavy Duty Engine Oil ... oil for use in diesel or diesel and gasoline engines. The additive package is stouter to deal with more fuel dilution and the extended drains typical of commercial trucking use.
PCMO = Passenger Car Motor Oil ... Essentially, the rest of motor oils.
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