Mercury Mariner Drum Brakes - Like New

[joe_it]

I have an 09 Mercury Mariner, 130,000 miles that I was working on yesterday. I replaced the brake pads on the front, this is the second set of pads, they had probably 30-40% life yet but the brakes felt spongy to me. I then removed the rear drums and took a look at the pads, they looked brand new. I checked the drums on the passenger side and noticed some rust on the inside, while the drivers side drum looked rather shiny. I am guessing this means that the passenger side is not calibrated right? However, these are the original brake pads and still look like they have 90-100% life on them.

I guess I am wondering if this is right on an 09 Mercury Mariner or Ford Escape? (Same model pretty much) I have never had these pads replaced or replaced them myself, but it makes me concerned that they aren't calibrated properly and being used correctly. I didn't have the fancy drum caliper to measure yesterday, just a tape measure to eyeball it. Thoughts on if this is working correctly?

Joe

 

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: joe_it
I have an 09 Mercury Mariner, 130,000 miles that I was working on yesterday. I replaced the brake pads on the front, this is the second set of pads, they had probably 30-40% life yet but the brakes felt spongy to me. I then removed the rear drums and took a look at the pads, they looked brand new. I checked the drums on the passenger side and noticed some rust on the inside, while the drivers side drum looked rather shiny. I am guessing this means that the passenger side is not calibrated right? However, these are the original brake pads and still look like they have 90-100% life on them.

I guess I am wondering if this is right on an 09 Mercury Mariner or Ford Escape? (Same model pretty much) I have never had these pads replaced or replaced them myself, but it makes me concerned that they aren't calibrated properly and being used correctly. I didn't have the fancy drum caliper to measure yesterday, just a tape measure to eyeball it. Thoughts on if this is working correctly?

Joe


The rear drums barely wore on my 2005 Mariner but it seems the front/rear brake bias was not right. The dealer adjusted this and braking was both better and crisper.

 

[eljefino]

Slap the drum on and spin that corner. Should feel a little, slightly gritty, zzzzt zzzzt zzzzt as it goes around.

If you crank on the adjuster a touch you should get it to where the drum barely wants to fit over the shoes. With a lip on an old drum (where the shoes don't rub) they'll still be loose when installed. It's hard to do this wrong; if you have the shoes so tight they'll drag, it'll be a heck of a time getting the drum back on.

 

[Lubener]

Adjust the drum brakes. If there's a ridge, adjust the starwheel thru the backing plate for a very slight drag. While the back end is lifted, have a helper apply the brakes. Try spining the wheels, you shouldn't be able if things are working. Rear drum brakes generally last 2-3 times longer than the front discs.

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: Lubener
Adjust the drum brakes. If there's a ridge, adjust the starwheel thru the backing plate for a very slight drag. While the back end is lifted, have a helper apply the brakes. Try spining the wheels, you shouldn't be able if things are working. Rear drum brakes generally last 2-3 times longer than the front discs.


+1

 

[Silverado12]

Agree w/adjusting rear drums. Pretty common for the adjusters not to work right. Before you reinstall the drums, sand the rusted edge with some 40 grit (or whatever you have laying around). It's common to turn the star adjuster quite a few turns if your brakes are pretty far out of adjustment since it's fine thread. It's trial and error, but you should be able to hear the drums scraping against the shoes when you're done. If they are hard to turn by hand or hard to slide back on, then loosen the slack adjustment.

 

[joe_it]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I was thinking about ordering a drum brake adjustment tool to make sure that they are calibrated correctly. Do you have a specifc suggestion for which tool is the best?

Joe

 

[eljefino]

the flat blade screwdrivers you already have. You need one to spin the gear and another to lift the little spring/ tab gizmo if you go too far.

I don't do it through "the slot"-- that's kind of an emergency option for if they automatically OVER-tighten in service.

So, pull the drum, sand the ridge (I use an angle grinder-- the horrors), adjust (tighter will click with one screwdriver and the spring thing in place ratcheting you in the correct direction), fit drum, spin, repeat.

If the adjuster feels anything less than perfect, wiggle it out of there, blast it clean with brake cleaner, and goop the threads of the two mating halves w/ antisieze.