Mercon V alternatives?

I have trouble reading on ANY transmission dipstick. There's too many bends and curves in the tube and the dipstick usually picks up residual fluid on the inside wall of the tube. I just put back in what I get out and usually forget about it.
It isn't the easiest to do I'll give you that. But if you keep trying you'll determine the level. I've done it lots of times.
 
No, I disagree. It needs to be filled to the correct level using the proper procedure to check the level.

And how can you actually check the level? :unsure:

Most transmission dipsticks aren't accurate, except Honda. Honda seems to be the only one capable of making an accurate dipstick, but their transmissions are of a different design, and in a Honda, you check the fluid with the car off.

If you refill with more than you drained, it could be overfilled. Drain the car with the transmission cold and refill with the same amount.
 
And how can you actually check the level? :unsure:

Most transmission dipsticks aren't accurate, except Honda. Honda seems to be the only one capable of making an accurate dipstick, but their transmissions are of a different design, and in a Honda, you check the fluid with the car off.

If you refill with more than you drained, it could be overfilled. Drain the car with the transmission cold and refill with the same amount.
Okay well if you're claiming the manufacturer's published method of determining the proper level is unacceptable then I'm not sure what to tell you.

In your scenario if the manufacturer is that inept how do you know they filled it correctly at the factory?
 
My choice for MERCON V:

LIQUI MOLY 20020 Top Tec ATF 1200.

Full synthetic and Ford Mercon V approved, made in Germany. Sells on RockAuto at a great price, including a size up to a 20 liter container.

20022__ra_p.jpg
 
Okay well if you're claiming the manufacturer's published method of determining the proper level is unacceptable then I'm not sure what to tell you.

In your scenario if the manufacturer is that inept how do you know they filled it correctly at the factory?

Factories have automated equipment and machines to fill them with the right amount. Another example is that RTV (used in a few places instead of a real gasket) is easy to apply in a factory setting with everything clean and new, but impossible to do on a used transmission or engine all dirty and covered in oil after many miles.

Transmissions take a long time to warm up. Much longer than oil and coolant, for example.
 
Factories have automated equipment and machines to fill them with the right amount. Another example is that RTV (used in a few places instead of a real gasket) is easy to apply in a factory setting with everything clean and new, but impossible to do on a used transmission or engine all dirty and covered in oil after many miles.

Transmissions take a long time to warm up. Much longer than oil and coolant, for example.
But apparently their dipstick design team is atrocious.
 
But apparently their dipstick design team is atrocious.

I'd say the same about the people who chose to use RTV instead of a regular gasket.

Maybe transmission dipstick design is difficult since every planetary gear automatic has the same problem. Possibly even worthy of its own thread about why it's so hard to make an accurate transmission dipstick :unsure:
 
It’s a 22 yo car. We have no idea if the transmission leaks, or if it was correctly filled in the past, so what drains out may or may not be the correct amount to pour back in. Best to check the level using the manufacturer’s recommended method.
 
My choice for MERCON V:

LIQUI MOLY 20020 Top Tec ATF 1200.

Full synthetic and Ford Mercon V approved, made in Germany. Sells on RockAuto at a great price, including a size up to a 20 liter

just keep warranty returning with random used oil in the container and you can build a massive stockpile
 
I have trouble reading on ANY transmission dipstick. There's too many bends and curves in the tube and the dipstick usually picks up residual fluid on the inside wall of the tube. I just put back in what I get out and usually forget about it.

You have difficulty reading because the fluid level is low. Try to put it at the proper level per dipstick, in other words, you need to see the fluid on the dipstick. Make sure the car is level.

The low side on dipstick usually (not always), it is 1 quart low.
If you cannot see the level, that means you are more than 1 quart low.
 
So I checked the fluid level last night after work while it was cold, and on a level surface. It's hard to see on this stupid dark grey metal rod, so I drew the meniscus line in green and circled the HOT level in red. Remember, I only refilled the exact amount drained. Is it overfilled, or should I check again with hot engine running, parked on a level surface?
20210505_135841.jpg
 
So I checked the fluid level last night after work while it was cold, and on a level surface. It's hard to see on this stupid dark grey metal rod, so I drew the meniscus line in green and circled the HOT level in red. Remember, I only refilled the exact amount drained. Is it overfilled, or should I check again with hot engine running, parked on a level surface?
You really need to check it the way Toyota states to check it since many cars are different. For my old Sienna it is fully warmed up in park with the engine running and after going through all the gears.

There should be a "Cold" mark but that isn't a correct metric to determine if the fluid is at the proper level. It is only there to make sure there is sufficient fluid in the transmission to get it hot, and then check it like the manual says. In general no transmission is ever properly checked while cold.
 
You really need to check it the way Toyota states to check it since many cars are different. For my old Sienna it is fully warmed up in park with the engine running and after going through all the gears.

There should be a "Cold" mark but that isn't a correct metric to determine if the fluid is at the proper level. It is only there to make sure there is sufficient fluid in the transmission to get it hot, and then check it like the manual says. In general no transmission is ever properly checked while cold.

x2.
 
You really need to check it the way Toyota states to check it since many cars are different. For my old Sienna it is fully warmed up in park with the engine running and after going through all the gears.

There should be a "Cold" mark but that isn't a correct metric to determine if the fluid is at the proper level. It is only there to make sure there is sufficient fluid in the transmission to get it hot, and then check it like the manual says. In general no transmission is ever properly checked while cold.
ok.... sounds good. Since it's flat, I'm going to drill tiny holes in the dipstick along the barely visible markings too, so that the surface tension of the fluid will give a more accurate visual indication.
 
Manual says I can use DexMerc III.
My recommendation is to go with Castrol MerconV or Castrol Import-MultiVehicle line, I used them in my 2000 Fords and they never had transmission problems (until rusted or got totaled by teenager driver).

Do NOT go with LV style of fluids like MaxLife.

Repeat the drain and refill at least three times, separated by some 200 miles in between. Check the level with engine running, preferably in "warm" range (I found out to be more precise). Run the shifter trough all the gears first.
 
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