Mercedes hood hinge pocket rustproofing/protection

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JHZR2

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The hood hinge pockets on older Mercedes are one area where protection is needed. As can be expected of an early 1980's car, rustproofing wasnt as good as it is today.

The hinge pocket is an area along the inner fender, which has a drain and which catches all the runoff (and natural debris), and can clog with debris causing standing water.

The areas are painted and seam sealed as OE, but are still an area where rust can start. Im trying to find some good pictures to show, but dont have them right now. They are the two pockets at the inner fender p towards the windshield in the following picture (springs and hinges removed):

5484324604_581b421cfa.jpg


They are really tough to access to do anything to. Aerosol does not get in well, nor does brushing. Tough access. Need to make sure that they are sealed or protected WELL, since there WILL be regular water in there.

Ideas???

Thanks!
 
Fog in something like WD40 on a regular basis.
I have done this sort of thing by firing WD40 through a compressor powered engine cleaning gun.
 
I think it was designed to combat corrosion, I think the WD stands for Water Displacement.
Agree, it's not thick and oily, or an underseal. But it is thin enough to 'Fog' and does not 'build' with repeated applications.

Another answer may be to use 'Waxoil'. Plug the drain hole and allow the cavity to fill, then drain the suplus.
Kind of messy though.
 
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Originally Posted By: expat
I think it was designed to combat corrosion, I think the WD stands for Water Displacement.
Agree, it's not thick and oily, or an underseal. But it is thin enough to 'Fog' and does not 'build' with repeated applications.

Another answer may be to use 'Waxoil'. Plug the drain hole and allow the cavity to fill, then drain the suplus.
Kind of messy though.


The whole underside of the car is waxoyled... Those pockets are dirty with a caked combo of dust and organic residues... Wodnt want to waxoyl over it. So the right prep is part of the question I guess...
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Some Krown T-40?


I have cans of it, but am afraid it would flow too much. These pockets drain into the fender, and any solvent may dissolve and damage the coatings/protection there.
 
W123's are a PITA in that area. Can you get your hands in there? How about just keeping it clean and painting whatever rust pops up? If not some kind of sticky oil.

Keeping debris out like leaves goes a long way to preventing rust.
 
Agree but I will not accept the painting rust that pops up part... Would like to prevent that at all costs...
 
I honestly don't think you will find a 'once and for all' fix for this. I think you are just going to have to keep the area clean and re-apply some rust preventative every so often.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Some Krown T-40?


I have cans of it, but am afraid it would flow too much. These pockets drain into the fender, and any solvent may dissolve and damage the coatings/protection there.


I've never seen T-40 damage anything. The Expedition has been COVERED in it many, MANY times. It does creep. Which in this application, sounds like it would be beneficial.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Agree but I will not accept the painting rust that pops up part... Would like to prevent that at all costs...


Ok simple enough than.

First clean that area perfectly, and address any rust issues that are present from the last 30 years.

Lastly never let the car get wet again, IE don't drive it in the rain, or use water to wash it.

No rust.

On my W126 I kept those areas perfectly clean and never really let it get wet, or drove it in winter. Problem solved.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Some Krown T-40?


I have cans of it, but am afraid it would flow too much. These pockets drain into the fender, and any solvent may dissolve and damage the coatings/protection there.


I've never seen T-40 damage anything. The Expedition has been COVERED in it many, MANY times. It does creep. Which in this application, sounds like it would be beneficial.



My thought process is that the T40 stays liquid and flows... It is like a flowable, non-hardening oil (I drove to Ontario to get this done on my Saab). Since that area is consistently wetted, the oil can possibly wash off.

Now ikmow the OE undercoat on these cars is solved by fuel and brake fluid... Would hate to learn T40 does too... That's my concern.

Then again, T40 is really lanolin, not oil, right?
 
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