We talk all the time about this conventional oil and that one..and on and on, so I wanted to create this post for mechanics to pipe in and explain why one particular conventional is preferred over another. Or, if it all has to do with OCI vs. brand? Not too sure how this will take off or not. I'm sure we will be beating the dead horse that we always have been, but please, mechanics out there... what are your thoughts. Also, I am looking for posts from those who have had 10 plus years in the automotive industry, or have worked on cars in the past for this length of time or longer.
Mechanics...post your reply here
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Your going to get way too many opionions on this topic. Im not saying that one oil is better than the other. Youll get folks that get over 200K on cheap pennzoil with no ill affects then you'll get some that usa a full synthetic and that go the same distance. The only difference is that you can go longer with synthetics vs dino. Either change you oil more often with dino or extend it with synthetic. If your looking for long intervals UOA's will tell you if your engine is handling it ok.
i agree with this but mechanics are like dr's. dr's don't know much about nutrition and mechanics know little about oils
Yes boxcartommie22...what you say may be true..
but shhhhhhhhhh
LOL
Let's let these mechanics say their peice. Who knows, maybe after all this horse beating we've done that past few years regarding conventional oil, maybe we will be enlightened. Or, maybe not.
but shhhhhhhhhh
Let's let these mechanics say their peice. Who knows, maybe after all this horse beating we've done that past few years regarding conventional oil, maybe we will be enlightened. Or, maybe not.
well i was a mechanic for 12 years (mostly diesel). oils that i trust include, chevron dino, delo diesel dino and mobil1 or delvac1 for synthetic.
I am not trying to say they are the best, but i trust them. year after year and it don't matter what part of the country or world you get them in.
Proven performance. and solid, tested technology.
Take my 2cents as you see fit.
I am not trying to say they are the best, but i trust them. year after year and it don't matter what part of the country or world you get them in.
Proven performance. and solid, tested technology.
Take my 2cents as you see fit.
UOAS tell you what works best and how long.
You know what they call the person that finished last in their class in medical school? Doctor. Same with mechanics...although some of them never went to a mechanic's training school.
uts on flame suit: Im a tech for a fleet of 1,700 school buses. Our buses get what ever flavor of the week is on sale every 5k miles. Currently we use Exxon XD-3 15w40 and I see no real difference in that and the coastal oil we used before. In my vehicles I use syn. oil just because if the abuse I put them through. Maybe its over kill or maybe we are just tring to do whats best.
I have about 5 years pro mechanic experience in the past and another 21 years working on friends and family vehicles
But I just know that I like to run Amsoil now. I can't help on conventional oil opinions. Run a good brand and don't worry too much.
But I just know that I like to run Amsoil now. I can't help on conventional oil opinions. Run a good brand and don't worry too much.
14 yrs, ASE cert., blah blah...
Really, any SM oil will serve most people well. I think syn is best for extended drains or extreme conditions. In my personal vehicles, I typically use dino oil that I have found on sale. Actually, I changed the oil in my wife's Malibu Maxx today. I used Havoline 10W30 with a little Havoline HM left over from another change. The 6.2L diesel in my C10 was changed too, with Delo 15W40. I have a pretty good stash of oil ranging from Supertech to Maxlife.
I think actually changing your oil is more important than which oil you use.
Really, any SM oil will serve most people well. I think syn is best for extended drains or extreme conditions. In my personal vehicles, I typically use dino oil that I have found on sale. Actually, I changed the oil in my wife's Malibu Maxx today. I used Havoline 10W30 with a little Havoline HM left over from another change. The 6.2L diesel in my C10 was changed too, with Delo 15W40. I have a pretty good stash of oil ranging from Supertech to Maxlife.
I think actually changing your oil is more important than which oil you use.
Forget oil, I think defining a mechanic is going to be a fight in itself.
I work on my own car, and I trust my work over a Mitsubishi mechanic any day of the week. Unless maybe it's a master mechanic that is flown in from Japan.
With that said, I can't give you much advise on oil other then to follow your owners manual.
From the short time I've been on this forums, I've read way more opinions then fact. The most important thing is to change your oil on time. If you have a specific car, I recomend trying to find forums for your car and find out what your fellow car owners are doing.
I work on my own car, and I trust my work over a Mitsubishi mechanic any day of the week. Unless maybe it's a master mechanic that is flown in from Japan.
With that said, I can't give you much advise on oil other then to follow your owners manual.
From the short time I've been on this forums, I've read way more opinions then fact. The most important thing is to change your oil on time. If you have a specific car, I recomend trying to find forums for your car and find out what your fellow car owners are doing.
I don't know what this post is asking for. I have been working on european cars for about 25 years, 18 years professionally. In racing cars and aircooled cars Redline has been a clear winner over dino oils. Its hard to say if it works better than dino oils on "normal" steet cars because they take so long to wear out. Lotus cars had lots of valve and bearing problems that were cured by switching to Redline.On Lotus cars I think we could get accurate comparisons because the cars wear out pretty fast. Another car that had a short life span is a Fiat 850. The little engines are run flat out all the time and have short bearing life. Redline works well in them. I think all the 850 owners have switched to Redline or some sort of synthetic by now because the main bearing life almost doubles with Redline.
Huh, the only Fiat's I see are yard decerations. I guess they should have used redline.
Not to bash your years of knowladge, but I've read so many reports on how Amsoil is better then Redline. It's a neverending battle and it's sad because the truth will never be proven.
I only know that redline makes GREAT transmission fluid.
I always wondered why it's red tho. It doesn't stay red. Or at least the transmission fluid doesn't.
I used to be turned off by the fact that the color was red for unknown reasons other then the fact that the product was called redline.
Not to bash your years of knowladge, but I've read so many reports on how Amsoil is better then Redline. It's a neverending battle and it's sad because the truth will never be proven.
I only know that redline makes GREAT transmission fluid.
I always wondered why it's red tho. It doesn't stay red. Or at least the transmission fluid doesn't.
I used to be turned off by the fact that the color was red for unknown reasons other then the fact that the product was called redline.
I've used the wrong oils for many, many, years.
I am a bad exmple and would give bad advice.
But that was before BITOG.
Now I know that modern oils are great, and a little thinner is better.
Synthetics in an engine generally are for turbos, long oil change intervals, and special extreme temp needs.
Regular dino is very good for the vast majority of us.
Sythetics in a tranny are usually better, though.
[Better late than never!]
I am a bad exmple and would give bad advice.
But that was before BITOG.
Now I know that modern oils are great, and a little thinner is better.
Synthetics in an engine generally are for turbos, long oil change intervals, and special extreme temp needs.
Regular dino is very good for the vast majority of us.
Sythetics in a tranny are usually better, though.
[Better late than never!]
One thing I forgot on my earlier post, you cannot destroy an engine by putting in the wrong type of oil for 3000 miles. For example, a lot of VW dealers used to void Beetle warranties because the oil was changed with 10-30W instead of straight 30W. What a load of bull. Or Saab dealers that voided warranties because you needed a special "turbo" oil. No engine is going to self destruct in 3000 miles because of some obscure oil requirement. If it has oil in it, its going to run to the next oil change. Now if you run out of oil, that's a different matter.
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